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Discussion Starter #1
Intend to check the plugs soon. They've done 3k. Assuming oe plugs for a tuned road use engine are plenty good enough?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I've read a few reports of plugs being toast after similar mileage is the reason checking mine.
 

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Plugs are very specific , extra long thread , not a lot of options, and not cheap
If your running rich for cyl temp safety they will last less time, also may need to reduce the gap if your pushing higher psi numbers than stock or using E85
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I did see the oem for £22 each, free shipping. Ebay I'm fairly sure. Motopartz or something similar. Definitely the right plug.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Excuse my ignorance, but what does the racing plug do that the oe doesn't?
 

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I did see the oem for £22 each, free shipping. Ebay I'm fairly sure. Motopartz or something similar. Definitely the right plug.
Be aware that there's a lot of fake stuff on the Internet. Certain countries don't appear to have any control over this, China and others are you listening? If it's advertised at half the normal price I would be suspicious unless the seller can guarantee it's genuine - and you can trust them.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yes, your right. Better safe than sorry it is then.
I'll post pictures of old plugs.
Be a week or two.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
After reading up on the racing plug, I'm almost tempted to see if I notice the difference. Double the price of the oe they maybe, but if it gains you a horsepower or three, they could be construed as somewhat of a bargain. Lol.
Some empirical data would be good.
 

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The racing plugs mentioned above have no earth strap , they rely on the proximity of the body for the spark path (so you cant change the gap)
also a colder plug

More intended for the likes of methanol with a big ignition system

As the H2 has a capacitor discharge ignition you cant realy do much to boost it , it is pretty good , but any upgrades would start with a standalone ecu
 

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Used them in my old H1 triple. To change the heat range the plugs had different electrode diameter. Used them because the lack of carbon build up and were easy to lean.
 

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If the ground electrode is melting its got nothing to do with milage,
Your running too lean and resulting combustion temps are too high
 

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Thought I'd post on this thread as somewhat relevant,

I've had the bike woolich tuned, intially it was done by the head mechanic at the shop I bought the bike from, usual derestrictions, datalogging runs X 3 to get a mapping done, not long after buying the bike in '17 (it was a new left over 2015).

Couple of months ago I installed H2R cams.

Long story short, after the cams install I got Joel (ex-woolich tuner who runs own business but still uses woolich kit) to retune/map the bike. He suggested a pre-tune dyno for baseline AFR and HP/Torque readings, as he has had to re-do a few bikes mapping from the shop I had it done (says the mechanic doesn't understand the intricacies of the woolich system).

Good job I did...are we sitting down comfy children?..good...now for a horror story...

The AFR from idle to around 5k rpm was 17.6:1, then thankfully came back down the higher the revs went till redline. How the thing didn't detonate/melt beforehand I, Joel & the dyno bloke don't know!

Anyway, I had a datalogging session at The Bend race track here in Sth, Aust. one day so Joel could gather info for the mapping. The bike now runs much better especially low to mid range with better low speed manners.

My question here now is would the plugs have been degraded/damaged due to the lean conditions previously? I ask as just yesterday after a good run the bike, when free revving in neutral at the side of the road, won't hold a steady rev, it still rides well under load on the road, just I notice the unsteady revving when trying to hold at any rpm level when the bike is stationary. Could the spark plugs finally have had enough but still give decent power under load?

Only other thought is I filled up at a petrol station yesterday half way through the ride and maybe there is foul fuel in it? Not a common thing at the stations I use though, and I would have thought it would run rough regardless even under load. I will be checking the plugs anyway.

2015 Bike has done 15,900kms
Full TT3 exhaust
DNA air filter
H2R cams (set at H2R timing positions/wheel degrees)
Pair valve block off plates
Woolich ecu tune/mapping
Rides well other than mentioned above.

Thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I suppose the only way to know for sure is get them out for inspection.
 
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