Ninja H2 banner

What has to be done for a Dyno Run?

26K views 83 replies 17 participants last post by  ayjayef 
#1 ·
I'm going to an event, it's mostly going to be Harleys, the shop specilaizes in 1/4 mile drag bikes, they have a dynojet. Should I have any concerns if I want to put my bike on their Dyno?

Is there specific tie down attachments areas on my frame that I need to suggest? What settings should I put the bike in? Assume KTRC OFF. What gear should the bike be in? Is there anything else that you guys can suggest, any thing at all would helpful & appreciated.
 
#3 ·
My dyno operator uses two methods. For setting the PCV up I think he used third gear and looked at the mixture or CO content and the shape of the power curve. He used various throttle positions and revs to produce the fuel map. Afterwards he did a full-throttle pull by shifting into third gear, letting the revs drop right down, then holding it on 100% throttle he let it rev right up to the limiter, then into fourth, fifth and sixth changing up at the limiter each time.
 
#7 ·
I'm not going there for tuning. Brocks Street Map is currently what's loaded on my PCV.

It's just for kicks via an invite from a local performance shop that specilaizes in building, tuning 1/4 mile V-twin drag bikes.
It's probably obvious to most who owns this shop but if not 'healthy' tip? I'd keep any critisism constructive ;)

 
#9 ·
STRADALE,

Turn the key on.
Right handle bar: – push MODE button.
Left bar :– push TOP (arrow shape) button UP once.
On dash: under/right KTRC mode will change from 1 to OFF (flashing)
Press MODE button again OFF stays solid
Make run.

You must do this every time the bike is turned off. (You know this, others may not ;) )

30 psi in rear tire.

Bike temp should be less than 165 degrees on your pull. The H2's heat soak VERY quickly... by the 3rd pull, it will be done (dropping power).

The bike MUST be tied down - no exceptions. This is not easy. The H2 makes far too much power not to be strapped, dyno numbers will suffer otherwise and this can be dramatic.
On the left side, we use a soft tie through the swingarm brace. On the right, we use the pipe hanger, if it's in place. If not, a soft tie around frame/foot works best.

5th gear pulls ONLY - go to the rev limiter. It won't hurt anything - don't let the operator lay on the limiter. ( Do not run in 3rd, it's mathematically incorrect for the dyno, 5th is the closest to 1:1, that's what you want)

Hopefully the dyno has a brake, we pull in on the clutch at the end of the run and slow the drum down with the brake... why would anyone slow down a $30K bike with a $20K dyno? If not, limit your pulls.

Shell 89 is the prefered fuel (no ethanol blend) any higher octane will hurt power readings, so will ethanol blends.

Street map will be fine.

Have fun!

Brock
 
#13 ·
I agree with everything Brock said. If you have soft ties, take them with you to make sure they are used. If you don't own them, I would buy a pair for this reason alone. They will push the bike up onto the dyno and then they will adjust the bike to get the wheel centered on the rear roller. Then they will adjust the rear straps to hold the bike down, but not to ratchet it too tight. Try to get there early and make sure the bike is very cool when they pull it on the dyno. Unless there is a well tuned turbo Busa or turbo ZX14 there, you should win easily. Be sure to let us know next week.
 
  • Like
Reactions: STRADALE
#15 ·
STRADALE,

If you ride the bike to the event, even if it is allowed to cool down for an hour or two - you will still be 10+ HP down compared to a completely cool engine that sat overnight and pulls from 150 degrees the next morning etc. This is simply the nature of the beast. The H2 is the most heat-sensitive machine we have ever tested. Between the heating of the cylinder head/engine/supercharger and the mass of the plenum casting etc... once it's hot, it's hard to get rid of it. We calculate @2% power loss for each 10 degrees the inlet temp rises - if you start with a warm plenum in a boosted application that heats the air as it builds pressure, you simply have to live with the results. The good news is that 10-20 hp doesn't matter, when you have a pile of them :)

That said, some guys get REALLY caught up on the absolute numbers... and the H2 will set you straight in a hurry if you skip details.

Brock
 
#16 · (Edited)
Thank you gentlemen, great advise. I have those really plush 2" tie down extensions straps that Ill bring. I just found on maps a Shell station by me, just don't know if it carries fuel without ethanol, if they do that would be a huge win all around since I'm always battling time w/ my small engines, snow blower, chainsaw, leaf blower etc and ethanol. Even one of my Harleys is carbureted. Always use stabil, never thought about trying to find ethanol free fuel especially in our nanny state, don't think it's available but I'm definitely going to look later today.

O/T a bit but re: temps - It's getting cold in NY, riding tonight to an event w/ temps looking in the 40Fs. I'm very familiar w/ how different high performance car/SUV tires perform, have 2 different, full sets of wheels & tires for vehicles that I use for the winter not just because of snow but because of the performance/safety w/ different tire compounds...I know the RS10 is a performance street/track tire, I'm very careful about warming them up before getting on the gas or leaning the bike over but are certain temperatures just not safe period?

2nd question - When you start your bikes cold believe the manual only states to let it idle a few minutes. What I usually do if in no hurry is let it climb a bit but at minimum I wait till the temperature readout goes from showing _ _ to actual #s , what about you? 165F max. if possible, thanks. I probably won't have to worry about this since I'm riding to the Dyno event & the temps climb quickly but if the bike is sitting long enough and it's cold enough outside, is there also a minimum temp. I should have before a dyno pull?
 
#17 ·
Thank you gentlemen, great advise. I have those really plush 2" tie down extensions straps that Ill bring. I just found on maps a Shell station by me, just don't know if it carries fuel without ethanol, if they do that would be a huge win all around since I'm always battling time w/ my small engines, snow blower, chainsaw, leaf blower etc and ethanol. Even one of my Harleys is carbureted. Always use stabil, never thought about trying to find ethanol free fuel especially in our nanny state, don't think it's available but I'm definitely going to look later today.

O/T a bit but re: temps - It's getting cold in NY, riding tonight to an event w/ temps looking in the 40Fs. I'm very familiar w/ how different high performance car/SUV tires perform, have 2 different, full sets of wheels & tires for vehicles that I use for the winter not just because of snow but because of the performance/safety w/ different tire compounds...I know the RS10 is a performance street/track tire, I'm very careful about warming them up before getting on the gas or leaning the bike over but are certain temperatures just not safe period?

2nd question - When you start your bikes cold believe the manual only states to let it idle a few minutes. What I usually do if in no hurry is let it climb a bit but at minimum I wait till the temperature readout goes from showing _ _ to actual #s , what about you? 165F max. if possible, thanks. I probably won't have to worry about this since I'm riding to the Dyno event but if the bike is sitting long enough and it's cold enough outside, is there also a minimum temp. I should have before a dyno pull?
Tires will be fine as long as you are gentle as they warm up.

We start most pulls around 155. In theory, it should be higher (wait for thermostat to open) but the H2 produces so much heat, it opens very quickly and if you wait, it can hamper your results. I really can't emphasize how quickly this bike makes heat and how much it affects power. We have done this with all of our H2's, and they haul ass :D

FYI. We started a couple of our Ohio mile runs at 140 to keep the finish line temps in check.

Brock
 
#18 ·
Best laid plans. Had a full tank when I read Brocks advise about the 89 Shell. Today when I go out to ride Fuel light comes on so ok great, I have 0.9 gallons left. I set the gallon used indicator, locate where a Shell station is and run an errand. I use .3 gallons so heading home should be perfect, just get in the throttle, use a little more gas on the way home and it will be perfect. Just as it hits .8 wah,wah,wah, FAIL! lol! Pushed her the rest of the way, about a half mile while thinking of calling Shell for a commercial maybe called "total dumbass wants our fuel so bad he'll push his $30k motorcycle to get it". I know, I know having bit of 93 in there too wouldn't have made any bit of difference but that's the down fall of OCD. Anyway posting this not that anyone would attempt it but remember it's probably more like 0.8 not 0.9 for reserve hehee!
 
#19 ·
I just looked at my Pure Gas app on my phone and it did not show any ethanol free stations on Long Island. Good luck.
 
#32 · (Edited)
Prices of fuel vary a lot locally. I use diesel and the prices here are 2.07 to 2.45 per gallon and regular gas is 1.82 to 2.19. I have a fuel app on my phone (Gas Buddy) that lists prices all over the country. Since I get about 600 miles to a tank, I can be selective of where I refuel and save about $10.00 each time. The prices tend to vary by state too, when I drove to Maine last summer (1900 miles) I was able to plot out the cheaper locations and the differences were even more dramatic. Saving 50 to 60 cents per gallon was not unusual. State and federal taxes have a big influence on prices and they vary from 70 cents per gallon in Pennsylvania to only 35 cent in Georgia, then the retailers decide on how much profit they want to add. I have similar pricing features on my truck's info package. Lots of retailers have incentive cards to add further discounts. My grocery card gets 10 to 60 cent discounts depending on my wife's spending habits.
 
  • Like
Reactions: h2rcx
#31 · (Edited)
On a YouTube comment by Brock after seeing a customer get 255hp stage 2 w/ 93oct he said "use 89 Shell and get into the 260s like us". Don't know if that means using 95 would lower HP even more than 93.

I was only interested in it specifically for a Dyno pull for best results, you wouldn't notice the difference on the street.
 
#35 ·
For what they pay in the UK, I was able to buy the 101 octane, VP ethanol free, from a pump in Connecticut. I have used that in my turbo Honda. There are a number of VP gas stations that sell both ethanol free regular gas and the 101 octane race. It was $8.99 per gallon.
 
#36 ·
Nothing us Brits enjoy more than a good shafting every time we fill up with fuel or pay road tax or even paying five thousand more for our H2 s . I wanted to pay more to help people who don't want to work due to being overweight or having to many children .
See what you've done now ? F####d up my evening !
 
#39 ·
Stradale,

Use the 89 with ethanol over the 93 on the dyno. These bikes are designed for use with SH*T fuel and respond more like a normally aspirated bike than a boosted bike - the technology they display is amazing. We have used 87 with even better results... but I just can't recomend 87 for these bikes. It's simply too far off of the 90 recommended by the MFG.

Please read this: Brocks Performance: Throttle Nation Magazine: The Gas Factor - Fuel Options For Max HP

It was written several years ago by my friend Don Smith - if it were written today, I would have an * next to it that says: *Note the Kawasaki Ninja H2 is a factory supercharged machine that is designed to operate on low octane pump fuel. As a result, It reacts closer to the normally aspirated machines in this article, than the supercharged or turbocharged machines. Sorry for any confusion. :D

Brock
 
#41 ·
So am I understanding that I should use shell 89 in my H2R when I am on the track? Thank you
For optimum performance, yes.

Don't get me wrong - there is nothing WRONG with running 93. We suggest our customers to run it in very hot climates if they are going to be a WOT for prolonged periods, but few know that it comes at the expense of reduced performance. Many simply don't care because the bike is 'fast enough' - that's all good too. But if you are one of those that does care, the devil is in the details.

Brock
 
#42 ·
Brock - Thanks so much for the response on the fuel.
Unfortunately I didn't get to put the bike on the Dyno yesterday. We got there early but they weren't doing the dynos till the afternoon and I was w/ people from my club & we had to be somewhere at 1pm which ran till after 4 & that was after the cut off. When asked by the Dyno operator how much hp my bike would make I said 230ish (sand bagging a bit) and he said if it does make that you'll win that trophy so too bad I couldn't get to do it but they are planning on doing a lot more Dyno days w/ classes, stock motor, etc. so will definitely get another shot. Kinda disappointed, was really looking forward to it, had my digital tire gauge and straps w/ me. Their Dyno does have a brake btw. I was watching my bikes temps on the way there too & with the cool weather noticed if I took it easy, while moving pretty good I could easily keep it in that 155-166F area. Aw well.
 
#46 · (Edited)
Now I'm curious...just WHY would a lower octane fuel perform 'better'?Octane rating is just for antiknock purposes,isn't it?The kick to the fuel blend is the same isn't it?No matter what the octane rating is...isn't it?Mine had a 'minimum 90 octane' rating on the tank sticker.That's just 'slightly' above 89.So what's the difference?My 2012 and 2013 zx14r had the same sticker on it.I ran 87 at various times in those...I noticed no difference in performance.Why would this H2 be any different.If it's rated at '90 octane minimum'?
 
#47 ·
Lower octane fuel has a higher caloric yield. So using the lowest octane fuel possible that WILL NOT pre-ignite will provide the most 'bang for the buck'. Octane is one of the hydrocarbons in the gasoline mix, and one with a relatively high resistance to pre-ignition. Hence, its name was adopted as the name of the anit-knock index. Octane itself is too expensive as an anti-knock additive, so other substances have been adopted. High performance vehicles need high octane because their engines are designed for high compression or are super/turbo charged and produce higher power. "High octane" also became associated with upper-end machinery, hence the association as higher quality gas. If your car is knocking, it's not developing full power, and the cause is not due to reduced explosive power in the gasoline, it's due to a timing control problem. More "octane" means more control means more power. The rule holds only if your problem was pre-ignition. Otherwise higher octane won't help. Part of the tradeoff you get for the antiknock characteristics is lower fuel efficiency. That is, a gallon of high-octane fuel has less energy (fewer calories, joules, kilowatt-hours, what have you) than lower-octane fuel.
 
#49 · (Edited)
And guys, a little common sense come into play here also... For dyno runs, drag racing, most roll-ons and even mile racing, we usually don't have to worry much about building excessive engine heat. That said, if you live in a hot climate, you are a 'larger' rider and/or if you engage in serious long-term wide open use (like some of the crazy-azz video's floating around this site) your bike can build massive amounts of heat, which can lead to pre-ignition/detonation etc., so you would want to run the best fuel available. 93 octane and no ethanol (if possible) in these situations. A small HP loss is nothing compared to damaging your bike! If you are in doubt, follow the MFG's recommendations - you can't go wrong that way.

Brock
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top