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TurboSmart BOV

34336 Views 99 Replies 18 Participants Last post by  boostedboiiiii, 
Niobium23
4
Thank you to TURBO329!!!!! Awesome sir, cannot thank you enough for all the sound advice and the help with the install. I honestly have rarely met someone so enthusiastic and positive about the products and the support after the sale, you are truly a credit to this community sir!
Install went fairly smooth, I was honestly very apprehensive about tearing into my new girl. It is weird, I have worked on thousands of bikes, have no problem with everything from the bottom end up, but I was sweating and had a lot of anxiety about tearing into a mchine that has been such a life acheivement for me to own. I took the plunge, and what an absolute joy, the engineers at kawasaki outdid themselves. What a beautiful machine to work on. A place for everything and everything in its place. That being said, getting the stock bov removed and its encumbent plumbing requires a certain amount of patience. The large hose that connects under the plenum to the airbox inlet area is a monster to get at. I figured a great trick to make it easier (this process is not clearly outlined in the service manual), remove the airfilter and its housing, gently work free from the left side of the machine with that large tube already disconnected at the other end and loose, this allows access to the hose clamp attaching it with relative ease. Its oriented in the down position, indicating install was reverse of this. No way to access it otherwise. Once done, very easily buttoned back up. Bypassed the boost solenoid thingy strictly according to Nate's excellent and clear instructions, and snugged her all down. Removed the pair valve and all its garbaggio at the same time. Simply removed and left the pair controller plugged in and tucked up neat so as to avoid the code 64 (air switching valve switch OPEN). This all done, fired her up, took her out. WOW. That blow off sound has immediately become a part of the symphony that is this machines powerplant. JUST AWESOME. Every time you roll off from a moderate amount of boost... PHISHHHHH!!!! Hahahaha. Great stuff! Fun. What bikes are about, FUN! And I do like the fact that the overboost is not being rerouted to the box. Fantastic job on this piece of kit and the fact that it includes the block and clamp for the pornstar hose is excellent! KUDOS SIR!
(That second pic is the H2 crown...

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Somefun
ayjayef said:
...back on topic...

If you install the Turbosmart BOV and route the throttle body vacuum line directly to it you are left with a "Purge Valve" doing nothing useful.

Unplug it and the bike goes into one of it's "limp-modes" with a lazy, spongy throttle and will only rev to about mid-range.

The fix for this was simple enough.
Remove the valve, cut the plug off (with enough wire to solder it back later if you change your mind) and solder in it's place a 22ohm 10watt resistor. It will cost you $2 odd and take 10 minutes. Picture of the resistor below.

I used the 22ohm 10watt but you can also use 2 x 47ohm 5watt resistors in parallel. I tested both but the longer single resistor was easier to solder and heatshrink on the end of the loom than the square block of 2 x 5watt ones.

You can always just leave the original valve in there but for me, this is a more permanent fix for something that the flash tools don't disable.

FYI - This is potentially the same "fix" for the air switching valve if you want to get rid of the dash error without flashing the ECU... but I've not tested that yet as I've turned it off in the ECU.
Click to expand...

I have the Don Guhl flash and just picked up the BOV. I was just going to install the BOV in and plumb to the Throttle body. So is that not the best way? I was trying to make the on off throttle transition smoother. Can you explain the resistors more and if this will help with the transition. I'm not quite understanding the best or right way of doing this.....thank you!!!
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ayjayef
The resistor is a way of totally removing the "purge valve" from the bike without the ECU knowing.

Install the Turbosmart BOV, try it using the factory "purge valve" (ie: take the vacuum from the factory blow-off and put it on your turbosmart). Take it for a ride.

Then by-pass the factory "purge valve" by running from the throttle bodies direct to the Turbosmart. Take it for a ride.

If you like the second way more then you will have a purge valve doing nothing, if you want to remove it then put that resistor in there to stop the ECU getting upset.
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Somefun
So I add the BOV and took the vacuum line off the electric BOV valve that comes from the throttle bodies and the capped the positive pressure line coming off the top of the air box and tried that. It let's off the boost at low rpms but it also dumped it on the way up Erving past 4K??? Not sure why. So I hooked the after market BOV up the way the stock one was and will try that. Problem is it doesn't dump till like 6k. Where did you guys take the vacuum from on the throttle bodies?
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OzBooster
There is 2 hoses going to the solenoid , one from the plenum and one from throttlebodys
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OzBooster
It would be easy to make a plug in resistor , mating half of the connector are available i expect, havent got those yet but most other connectors i have found for my ecu conversion without any problem
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Niobium23
Just what Oz said, I simply used the line that used to route from throttle bodies to solenoid, skipped the solenoid and ran it direct to bov.
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Somefun
Niobium23 said:
Just what Oz said, I simply used the line that used to route from throttle bodies to solenoid, skipped the solenoid and ran it direct to bov.
Click to expand...
I actually did that. I used the line that has a 90 degree bend in it and went into the top of the solenoid and put it in the BOV but I tested it and when you reved it up it was dumping Boost. As you reved it? Any ideas?
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Niobium23
Im thinkin Some, I might pull the panels off this evening and take some pics, see if that helps, I didnt have any boost leaking as I revved the engine. I will pull her apart and take some pics!
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Somefun
Niobium23 said:
Im thinkin Some, I might pull the panels off this evening and take some pics, see if that helps, I didnt have any boost leaking as I revved the engine. I will pull her apart and take some pics!
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Niobium that would be great! I really appreciate it. I thought I hooked it up like you Guys explained but maybe not:(
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ayjayef
OzBooster said:
It would be easy to make a plug in resistor , mating half of the connector are available i expect, havent got those yet but most other connectors i have found for my ecu conversion without any problem
Click to expand...
Nice tip that the connectors are available, I expected they were unique enough to be hard to find so didn't even start to look.

#### IMPORTANT ####

#### Dont do my resistor tip ####

Took the bike out for a blast today, much higher boost on a nice country road and found that the ECU doesn't like the resistor during prolonged valve actuation.

Best guess is that not only is the ECU looking at the 22-26 Ohm Purge Valve resistance it's must also check for a different resistance during long openings of the valve.

It worked fine at idle and during roll-on and roll-off's at about 10,000rpm but a long road and a roll to 12,000 then roll off caused the dash to flash, and one of the limp modes kick in.

Checking on the dash it was a 6A error = Purge Valve.

So forget what I wrote previously, just plug the unused purge valve in and be done with it.

Sorry for the misinformation, I thought testing to 10k multiple times was proof it was working and didn't think testing to redline was needed.
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Niobium23
Great info and thanks for testing that in the real world AJ! Now we know!
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OzBooster
It will be a PWM valve, i bet the ecu is looking for flyback voltage too
I have a few things here i used to emulate injectors on another project , maybe they will help here ,
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Somefun
So I took the bike for a ride with it hooked up the stock way because as I said it was dumping off Boost as I reved it with top vacuum line off the electric valve. Well I went for a short ride and when I came back there was oil all over the place. So I took the side clutch cover off to change the shifter internal rod because I had an issue with it. Well it seems I had a gasket issue and it didn't seal good. I fixed that and now I'm thinking that this was why the Boost was dumping off when I was running it in the garage. What do you guys think? I need to test it and try for sure.....
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Somefun
Well tried it and no better. Did you guys actually run the motor with the direct vacuum line to the BOV and have your hand on it to see if it was dumping off Boost when you where steadily increasing RPMs and not letting off? Can't figure why it will it dumps Boost when increasing the revs
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OzBooster
Dont worry too much whats happening at very low throttle and high rpm free revving
it needs pressure in the throttlebody under the blades to hold the valve closed
free revving you have very little opening of the throttle blades and there is still vacuum under them
you probably will have better response when free revving with no hose connected
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Somefun
Oz should I cap off or plug the line that comes out from the top of the air box and then just take the line that comes in from the throttle bodies and goes into the electric valve and reroute it to the BOV right?
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Turbo329
Somefun said:
Oz should I cap off or plug the line that comes out from the top of the air box and then just take the line that comes in from the throttle bodies and goes into the electric valve and reroute it to the BOV right?
Click to expand...
Hey man,

I got your message. Take a look at the PM I sent.

It sounds like you left out a step during your install.
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Somefun
Turbo329 said:
Hey man,

I got your message. Take a look at the PM I sent.

It sounds like you left out a step during your install.[/QUO

Turbo just saw your PM thank you.... hooked up just like you said. But dumping under no load only free reviving. @OZ I'll try it like that and see what happens. Seems screwy but I'll give it a try. Thanks very much
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Turbo329
Somefun said:
Oz should I cap off or plug the line that comes out from the top of the air box and then just take the line that comes in from the throttle bodies and goes into the electric valve and reroute it to the BOV right?
Click to expand...
Don't plug the line. Remove the hose altogether and plug the plenum hole with an M6x10 bolt or one of the bolts that held your carbon box in place.

Check your email. I sent you a couple of pics.

You basically want to take the boost solenoid out of the equation completely. You leave the Boost Solenoid connector plugged in though so your bike doesn't throw code.

Did you also plug the hose coming from the back of the throttle body that was connected to the Air Switching Solenoid?
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Niobium23
Yeah some, I just followed Turbo?s instructions to the letter, I do wear earplugs when I ride, at low throttle openings I am not hearing any boost being vented. But that may be the earplugs. She is nice and smooth down low, and still feels just as strong in throttle transitions. Lifts the front effortlessly. I do start hearing boost being vented when I roll off from more aggressive throttle openings.
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