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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, fitting up a TT3 exhaust, having problems with how the muffler/can bolts on. If anyone with this system can help...


A flat metal plate with a hole at each end is provided to attach to the muffler mount bracket and apparently somewhere on the rear set footpeg mount. I cannot get the muffler to align correctly so this plate will fit on it and what I have been told by TT3 is the footpeg mount bolt - which is actually the bolt that holds on the rear foot brake pedal. The only point I can see that it may fit is a bolt hole, with no bolt in it, just above the brake pedal mount, and is part of the moulded rear set bracket (make sense?).


No extra bolts/nuts are provided with the set so I'm presuming the OEM exhaust bolts are used. I've been in contact with Andy and he sent me a pic of the muffler mounted, but it doesn't show the actual plate and where it mounts!


Any help appreciated, I have the bike booked in tomorrow to get the Woolich tuning done. The exhaust system is great and it comes with a DNA filter and spare copper exhaust washers for the header ports.


If I manage to sort this out before hand I'll post up..


Don.
 

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Ok, fitting up a TT3 exhaust, having problems with how the muffler/can bolts on. If anyone with this system can help...


A flat metal plate with a hole at each end is provided to attach to the muffler mount bracket and apparently somewhere on the rear set footpeg mount. I cannot get the muffler to align correctly so this plate will fit on it and what I have been told by TT3 is the footpeg mount bolt - which is actually the bolt that holds on the rear foot brake pedal. The only point I can see that it may fit is a bolt hole, with no bolt in it, just above the brake pedal mount, and is part of the moulded rear set bracket (make sense?).


No extra bolts/nuts are provided with the set so I'm presuming the OEM exhaust bolts are used. I've been in contact with Andy and he sent me a pic of the muffler mounted, but it doesn't show the actual plate and where it mounts!


Any help appreciated, I have the bike booked in tomorrow to get the Woolich tuning done. The exhaust system is great and it comes with a DNA filter and spare copper exhaust washers for the header ports.


If I manage to sort this out before hand I'll post up..


Don.
I had a bit of an issue fitting it in the right place at first. But then I figured it out. I'll post up a picture tonight when I get home to help you out.
 

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You have to remove the foot peg assembly to insert the bolt into the back of it that holds on the bracket. The bolt needs to be short enough to not hit the swingarm. Hope these pics give you an idea.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Looks similar to what I have tried to sort out, I took off the rear set bracket and put a bolt into that spare hole, with the supplied plate, I am still having difficulty keeping the muffler from touching anything, is the muffler bolt bracket forward of that bolt hole, meaning does the plate attach to the bolt hole, then positioned forward to meet the muffler - if so the securing spring supplied does not have enough distance between the lugs of the muffler and midpipe to be under tension.


I have also contacted Andy again an he is sending a pic of his set up too.


I don't know why I'm having such trouble with this, probably once I get it sorted I'll bang my head on a nearby wall as it will be obvious.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well, got the muffler on, a bit of "encouragement" needed to make the plate bracket and muffler bracket meet but it's there now, thanks H2QIK.


On a side note, after all the mucking around I went to start the bike and...tick..tick..tick...nothing! Pulled everything apart again (fairings etc.) checked under the tank where I had removed the exhaust valve cabling, checked all fuses. Still played up, so rechecked everything, the dash even showed up an E3B code which translates to ECU problem no less!


Went to start it again and it was trying, so checked the battery level - 10.4V, flat battery!!


I'm thinking the battery may be old stock from the dealer, this is a 2015 H2 but still they usually put a new battery in at owner pick-up. I've got it on charge now. It has made me recall a couple of times recently when starting it and how sluggish the turnover was for a couple of seconds.


I have a Lithium battery in the shed that I had used on the zx12r, I may give that a go,


Don.
 

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If this helps here is a description and pics.

I have bit my tongue for a while on TT3, and this isnt a bash, but Andy doesnt know how his own system mounts up. I had him tell me to disassemble the rear brake lever and the metal plate bolts in there to it. No, it certainly doesnt. There is a spare hole right above the brake lever bolt that it mounts to. Its an M8 threaded hole. USE A M8 X 16MM HEX HEAD BOLT in it.

I actually used Brock's website to understand more about how to mount it because whoever designed Andy's system copied @Brock design. (Page 4 of this link, FIG 14)
http://www.brocksperformance.com/Instructions/H2R/996668.pdf

Mine didnt come with any accessory bolts (imagine that) so I had to source them from the local hardware store after I got the bolt size for the back of the brake pedal from Brock. Buy stainless ones and locktite the M8 x 16mm one. The lower bolt I got one with a nylock on the end and a split ring washer to prevent it from backing out (Has to be easy to get off for tire changes).

See pics. And you will have to turn your head to the side to see them because whoever wrote the source code for this page IS A FUKING IMBECILE !....Picture rotation is like elementary C++

NOLA
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks Nola, yep I stared at it for a while with my immense mental powers and came up with the same result of using the un-used bolt hole too!


No securing bolts provided here either, but I have a supply of nuts and bolts in the shed luckily.


Started it up today with baffle in, sounds great, and a bit loud, will take baffle out when getting it Woolich tuned next Tuesday, should sound incredible! They will fit a Woolich harness to it so access port for any future tuning will be under the seat.


Don.
 

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No problemo. Hope it helped at least confirm the mounting points.

Why should it ? It was only $2,500 bucks, you should have to go find the mounting hardware for it.

Yes, its seriously loud without the baffle.

NOLA
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
What I had done...


Fitted Woolich Harness
IAP fuel maps adjust
TPS fuel maps adjust
ETV maps smoothed down low (less snatchy throttle)
Secondary Throttle Plate Open maps
Disable O2 sensor
Disable exhaust valve
Remove Speed Limiter
3x data log runs


Now has 100% throttle in all gears. Was wet and late when picked up so not done decent run on it yet. The mechanic/tuner has been doing Woolich past 7 years and done a few H2's, he said mine has been the best improvement he's seen yet on a H2! Is even going to call back another bloke who has a Vandemon on his to get it to my H2's tune state.


Doing it this way, through the dealer, I get to keep warranty, also they provide the Woolich Bin File for me so don't have to pay to get linked in each time something else is done. They are even happy to increase rev range if wanted, but I have kept it stock for now. Also didn't get the temp fan cut in time lowered just yet, will see how it goes especially in summer.


Don.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ok somehow a post I put in just prior to these last two didn't get through, is explains how the TT3 O2 sensor mount point is in incorrect position for Woolich tuning, had to get another one welded in on left side of mid pipe (can't see it unless get down and under bike).


Also the cross bracing bracket that holds the two lower small fairing covers on had to be turned around so it wouldn't foul with the header down pipes.


This info for anyone considering TT3 and Woolich tuning.


Don.
 

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If this helps here is a description and pics.

I have bit my tongue for a while on TT3, and this isnt a bash, but Andy doesnt know how his own system mounts up. I had him tell me to disassemble the rear brake lever and the metal plate bolts in there to it. No, it certainly doesnt. There is a spare hole right above the brake lever bolt that it mounts to. Its an M8 threaded hole. USE A M8 X 16MM HEX HEAD BOLT in it.

I actually used Brock's website to understand more about how to mount it because whoever designed Andy's system copied @Brock design. (Page 4 of this link, FIG 14)
http://www.brocksperformance.com/Instructions/H2R/996668.pdf

Mine didnt come with any accessory bolts (imagine that) so I had to source them from the local hardware store after I got the bolt size for the back of the brake pedal from Brock. Buy stainless ones and locktite the M8 x 16mm one. The lower bolt I got one with a nylock on the end and a split ring washer to prevent it from backing out (Has to be easy to get off for tire changes).

See pics. And you will have to turn your head to the side to see them because whoever wrote the source code for this page IS A FUKING IMBECILE !....Picture rotation is like elementary C++

NOLA
Must be the first time in your life you have bitten you tongue lol
 

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Well, got the muffler on, a bit of "encouragement" needed to make the plate bracket and muffler bracket meet but it's there now, thanks H2QIK.


On a side note, after all the mucking around I went to start the bike and...tick..tick..tick...nothing! Pulled everything apart again (fairings etc.) checked under the tank where I had removed the exhaust valve cabling, checked all fuses. Still played up, so rechecked everything, the dash even showed up an E3B code which translates to ECU problem no less!


Went to start it again and it was trying, so checked the battery level - 10.4V, flat battery!!


I'm thinking the battery may be old stock from the dealer, this is a 2015 H2 but still they usually put a new battery in at owner pick-up. I've got it on charge now. It has made me recall a couple of times recently when starting it and how sluggish the turnover was for a couple of seconds.


I have a Lithium battery in the shed that I had used on the zx12r, I may give that a go,


Don.
Lithium Battery is the way to go
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
MickO, the lithium Ion battery I used happened to be one I had for the zx12r, it is a Motocell, and just happens to be exactly the same dimensions as the OEM battery, so perfect fit!
 

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MickO, the lithium Ion battery I used happened to be one I had for the zx12r, it is a Motocell, and just happens to be exactly the same dimensions as the OEM battery, so perfect fit!
Yeah i have a Motocell also which are made by Haiji China still going strong in my ZX12R after 3 years.
 

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Guys

I am rarely here and apologise that you had an issue guys.

The drop link does indeed fit into the spare/unused threaded hole at the rear of the lever and as requested I sent photos of my set up.

I hope that it is all good now and will make a note of the M8 bolt required for future.

Regards


AJ
 
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