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Discussion Starter #1
Hey everyone finally picked up a set of sprockets and will be working on swapping them out with the original sprockets soon.

I was just wondering if anyone that has done the process could share what tools they needed to complete the job.

Things I'm concerned about not having are

Correct size socket for front engine sprocket nut

Correct size socket for rear axel nut

Correct size Allen key for rear axel

If anyone could chime in with the correct sizes of those it would be greatly appreciated.

Side note what tools do you use for changing out your chain. I know motion pro has a rivet/break tool on Amazon seems decent for the price.....

Thanks for any input or information really appreciate it trying to be able to have everything when I tackle the job and not get stuck in the middle of it.
 

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Front sprocket nut...20 mm.

Chain...grind the heads off of one link.Slide link out.The motion pro tool you will need to install new link.(crimping)."Correct size socket for rear axel nut"..you do not remove axle nut.Leave that alone."Correct size Allen key for rear axel"..you use the supplied allen wrench for the two rear axle clamp bolts.

Are you using a rear stand,or a center stand?
 

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For the front sprocket: Even if you aren't using an impact wrench use a proper impact wrench socket with six flats, not a regular one from your tool kit. The torque is quite high, the contact area on a hexagonal socket is greater and it's less likely to slip or damage the nut.

For the rear sprocket: I found it easier to put the bike on the paddock stand and remove the rear wheel to loosen the sprocket nuts. Much easier than trying to do it through the wheel. Then put the wheel back on, drop the bike off the stand and remove the sprocket. It might take you five minutes longer but it's worth it.
 

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Hey everyone finally picked up a set of sprockets and will be working on swapping them out with the original sprockets soon.

I was just wondering if anyone that has done the process could share what tools they needed to complete the job.

Things I'm concerned about not having are

Correct size socket for front engine sprocket nut

Correct size socket for rear axel nut

Correct size Allen key for rear axel

If anyone could chime in with the correct sizes of those it would be greatly appreciated.

Side note what tools do you use for changing out your chain. I know motion pro has a rivet/break tool on Amazon seems decent for the price.....

Thanks for any input or information really appreciate it trying to be able to have everything when I tackle the job and not get stuck in the middle of it.

Front sproket nut is 27mm, and don't forget about the bent lock washer. Use an impact as suggested. For rear sprocket you don't need to remove the axle nut, just loosen the (5) 17mm nuts on the back of the sprocket and you're fine. Once again as suggested, remove the wheel and then reinstall it will help a lot. For the chain, the Motion Pro PBR chain tool or equivalent is the way to go. To tension the chain you will need a 10mm allen to loose the clamp bolts on the hub and the supplied wrench to rotate the eccentric.
 

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Chain...grind the heads off of one link.Slide link out.
LOL, that sounds like a lot of work. Why don't you just use a chain breaking tool?
And you need the same tool to install the new master link anyway.
I do this every time I change the front sprocket which is more often than I change underwear :D
I keep a box full of master links on had at all times.



Front sprocket I use an impact gun to easily remove the nut.
putting it back on I use a torque wrench, put the bike in gear and put weight on the rear break.

Rear sprcket; first I put the bike into a wheel chalk to hold it straight up.
Impact gun again, remove the sprocket hub, turn it over on a towel and use the impact gun to remove those 5 nuts as well.
Torque wrench to reapply.
Don't forget to properly tighten the chain tension you would need to prop the rear wheel up with the rear stand.

FYI if you change your gearing (especially the rear sprocket) you will be changing the ride height of the rear and the geometry of the bike. This is the 1 drawback of the single-sided swingarm.
 
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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the support community appreciate all the responses and information so quick.

So what I gathered from everyone is the front sprocket nut is

20mm or 27mm use a six point because its tight

Need to replace the washer.....

Rear axle nut is 46mm 12 point and a 24mm allen key

but the rear sprocket can be done without taking the axle nut off just by pulling off the rear wheel to make it easy.

Remove the five 17mm nuts that need to be replaced and the sprocket comes off.... after removing the slack from chain.

I will be using a rear stand as I do not have a front wheel chock may need to invest in one of those will have to do some research on a good one.

Racer172 what chain tool was that in your picture? Thought you had to grind the rivet heads off even with the chain tool.......


Im going with the vortex 19t front and 41t rear for those wondering.
 

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I highly recommend a heindle center stand.Allows both wheels to be off the ground.Using a small floorjack under the pipes.
 

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1-Need to replace the washer.
2-but the rear sprocket can be done without taking the axle nut off just by pulling off the rear wheel to make it easy.
3-I will be using a rear stand as I do not have a front wheel chock
4-Racer172 what chain tool was that in your picture? Thought you had to grind the rivet heads off even with the chain tool.
1-no it can be reused about 5 or 6 times, after that so much bending it should be replaced.
2-everything about what you said here is wrong. You have to take the rear nut off to remove the hub which holds the sprocket, and none of these parts have anything to do with the rear wheel which is on the other side of the bike. The wheel does not come off for this procedure.
3-if you are using a rear stand (like the PitBull) that goes through the center of the wheel to lift up the bike then you will not be able to get the hub & sprocket off, unless it enters from the right side, I don't know. I use a wheel chalk to keep the bike upright. Bob just uses the side sand which works fine but the bike is angled, I like it to be upright.
4-The Chain in that picture was just a random image I got from a search. The chain-breaking tool I use is RK Excel, here is a pic below.
This tool allows you to use that threaded rod to push the pin out the other side of the chain's link using a socket set, this is what I do. My mechanic told me yesterday that he also grinds the pins off because that's faster, so either way you want to get there.



here the link to order on Amazon:

 

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Thought you had to grind the rivet heads off even with the chain tool.
a couple years ago when my mechanic bought me the chain-breaking tool he explained to me how to use it, I recorded the instructions on my cell phone so I could review it the first time I went to use the tool. Here is the recording, I uploaded it to YouTube. This recording was never meant to be view by anyone but me on my phone but I leave it up long enough for you to get an idea of how it works, then I will pull it down from my youtube channel.

 

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(To replace rear sprocket)
I repeat because I'm sure of what I say because I did it this way:

1- Lift the bike
2- Remove the wheel
3- Loose the 2 allen hub bolts and release tension on the chain
4- Loose all 5 sprocket nuts behind the sprocket itself
5- Replace the wheel momentarily
6- Drop the bike from the stand
7- Remove the sprocket toward the left side
8- Put the new sprocket in same way
9- Re-lift the bike and remove again the wheel
10- Tighten all 5 nuts behind the sprocket and engage the chain
11- Put tension on the chain and tighten allen bolts
12- Replace the wheel

If you lift the bike from the pegs, you won't even need to remove and replace the wheel twice
NO NEED to remove the axle bolts, no 46mm 12pt socket and 24mm allen needed
 

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"If you lift the bike from the pegs"...never heard of that.How do you do that?


Only difference is I use a center pivot stand.That way no need to have to 'lower bike on wheel' part and remove stand.

With the chain breaker,for me it was always simpler and easier to grind the heads off the link.Then I take a large flattip screwdriver and wedge into the plate,popping that off,slide link out.So much easier than trying to tighten that pin in there to push on the link.I then connect the new chain end to the old chain,put trans in N.Pull old chain through front sprocket and remove once it gets to the rear,where I link the new chain ends together.Add plate,then crimp.Voila!Easy.

I'll tell ya...the center pivot stand really works great.Can check front play and steering action,along with bearing action.Or tire replacement especially if I'm doing front and back.Small floorjack under the exhaust headers,lift gently just enough for the front wheel to clear the ground.Really helps as well to line up the axle in there.You can drop or raise the floorjack just right to slide that axle in/out without drama.Taking any pressure off that fork /axle interface.

I used to remove the front fender as well when changing out tires.I stopped doing that when I got the center stand and jack.Just removed the calipers,and she slides right out.You guys probably already do it like that.I have a pitbull front stand with the pin.I used that for a while.Always removed the fender when I did use it.Center stand's so much easier.
 

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That's a first for me...never seen those before.Looks kinda 'iffy'.How the heck do ya get the bike up on both sides to lift it?Don't think I'd want those...I just put her on the rear stand,install the pivot stand,then remove the rear stand.

Do you actually HAVE those stands?Looks like it cradles the footpegs.Right?If so,How's it gonna cradle a footpeg that folds up and back?I could see it working with solid rearsets.Kinda.Still would need to raise the rear up with em...don't see how that's possible one at a time.
 

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"A: The bike would need to be lifted up off the ground with front and rear race stands, then the Jack Stands are slid into place. Once the bike is on the jack stands the front and rear stands can be removed".Too much extra work for me lol.I don't really need to raise the rear with the swingarm stand.I can fit the center pivot stand with it on it's sidestand.Either way.
 

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I don't get why you guys remove the rear wheel for a rear sprocket change.
One has nothing to do with the other.
but whatever works for ya..
 

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To get to the sprocket nuts.And the axle bolts.Just easier for me anyway.But I do have a nicely angled socket wrench I use to do it either way.It can be done on the sidestand as well.Think I did it that way once.
 

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To get to the sprocket nuts.And the axle bolts.Just easier for me anyway..
sorry for not letting this go but at this point it's a curiosity thing for me, just trying to figure out if there's something I'm missing here.
so you're working from this side to remove the hub & sprocket from the other side of the swing arm?

 
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