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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Just wondering here...first off,if my crank position sensor is unplugged,will the bike run?Secondly,will having an unplugged sensor affect QS performance?Thanks all for your feedback here...;)

I suppose the circuit of the 'sensor' is only for the sensor,not having any electrical adjustability to the crank position.????The engine seemed to run fine(with it unplugged).Only the QS was acting different.I reconnected the sensor plugs,and the shifting actually seemed to get better.IDK.
 

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H2madness

Why would you ever want to unplug the crank position sensor? You are only inviting problems you don't need.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
I had a PCv on it.I removed that and forgot to replug that connector.That still doesn't answer my question though.I didn't get any dash codes either.It probably wouldn't flash a code seeing that it was only unplugged and not faulting(the sensor).

I'm guessing here that all the 'positions' of the crank and throttlebodies and such are governed by the ECU.???The sensors are just saying it's right or wrong,yes?I had a zx10 QS sensor on there...for downshifts.I removed that and installed the factory QS in there.So the ECU is set to 'QS downshift'...Why they say to install the zx10 one I have no idea.Anyone know why they say that(Brock's).If it kills the power when pushed,up or down,then why change sensors?If it does kill the power shifting down...does it?(the factory one).I would think it has no idea what the push force is coming from....if this makes sense.
 

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I had a PCv on it.I removed that and forgot to replug that connector.That still doesn't answer my question though.I didn't get any dash codes either.It probably wouldn't flash a code seeing that it was only unplugged and not faulting(the sensor).

I'm guessing here that all the 'positions' of the crank and throttlebodies and such are governed by the ECU.???The sensors are just saying it's right or wrong,yes?I had a zx10 QS sensor on there...for downshifts.I removed that and installed the factory QS in there.So the ECU is set to 'QS downshift'...Why they say to install the zx10 one I have no idea.Anyone know why they say that(Brock's).If it kills the power when pushed,up or down,then why change sensors?If it does kill the power shifting down...does it?(the factory one).I would think it has no idea what the push force is coming from....if this makes sense.

No way you don't get any code with CPS unplugged! There's a trouble code for it and it's code 21. Stock shift sensor on '15 and '16 H2 is a one-way type (it works only when it's pushed), while on '17 and up it's bidirectional (push/pull), like on 16' and up ZX-10. You need either one of this sensors to have the autoblipping feature on '15 and '16 H2. And the ecu MUST be flashed to activate it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
"No way you don't get any code with CPS unplugged!"

There was nothing on the dash.

Okay...just went out and unplugged it.Tried to start bike.Only cranked.Lamps flashing.Interesting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
"'15 and '16 H2 is a one-way type (it works only when it's pushed), while on '17 and up it's bidirectional (push/pull), like on 16' and up ZX-10". Okay,so why then are the part numbers the same for the 15 H2 and the 2018 10R?

You mean to tell me the 2015 vs the 2016-18 are 'different'(push and pull) in the way they activate with the same part number?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
I have to say...it DID qs down through the gears.Without clutching.Only had to 'think' about letting up on the throttle and it popped right into the lower gear(s).The only thing different is the ECU has the 'autoblip' enabled.I did not try it at high rpms.moderate only.When the roads clear up(today hopefully)I'll get back out and try some other shifting speeds.See if it's just me,or what.

I just compared the two...the zx10 one IS longer.I didn't think it was.
 

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"'15 and '16 H2 is a one-way type (it works only when it's pushed), while on '17 and up it's bidirectional (push/pull), like on 16' and up ZX-10". Okay,so why then are the part numbers the same for the 15 H2 and the 2018 10R?

You mean to tell me the 2015 vs the 2016-18 are 'different'(push and pull) in the way they activate with the same part number?
If the part numbers are the same, which is possible. The way that things work is the shift detect is activating when there is a strain on it (either push or pull), on the 2015-2016 the upshift is detected and it cuts the power for a bit. No matter what, so downshifting doesn't work because there is nothing to blip it even though it detects a shift.

On the 17-18 it needs to have the throttle off before is will blip, if the throttle is on it will cut the power. So the same part can be used. The ECU just needs enough smarts to do the job.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well,it's the same first part number.The second number IS different.So that solves that.Thanks for the info...
 

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"'15 and '16 H2 is a one-way type (it works only when it's pushed), while on '17 and up it's bidirectional (push/pull), like on 16' and up ZX-10". Okay,so why then are the part numbers the same for the 15 H2 and the 2018 10R?

You mean to tell me the 2015 vs the 2016-18 are 'different'(push and pull) in the way they activate with the same part number?

Courtesy of KEPCC and FT-ECU
 

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