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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Like stated on post I’m wondering if fellow h2 owners and veterans can answer the question

Is it safer to raise redline to 13500-14200 to increase hp
Or
Do rg62 sc gears for hp and lower redline to 13000

Which is better

On a 2019 h2 c and debating what’s the best route to go as to not blow engine doing WOT runs and potentially at 40mile long stretches.
 

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"potentially at 40mile long stretches"...so you're saying WOT for 40 miles?.Hmmm...I think get it flashed and piped.Maybe a PCV.Since it's already doing 230 something HP stock,Brock's system(Stage 2?)could probably bring it up to 270 at least(probably closer to 300 actually).With a 14,200 limit.That might be better.BUT...if you're actually planning on running her wide open for 40 miles.It won't matter(? IMO).It's not gonna be okay for that motor...If it was stock and you did that...it would most likely break something.40 miles?WOT.:eek:
 

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Intercooler should be your first modification, for safer intake temperatures, plus your ONR (octane number required) is lowered. With an intercooler, and high octane fuel you can safely run more boost or timing, or in some applications both!
RPM’s create more heat, and load. Boost on the other hand do not hurt the engine if it is built to handle it... cylinder pressure does not go up drastically with boost pressure!
 

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40 miles, your going to get tired hanging on ;)
yes intercooler , the cooler you can make your inlet temps the better it will last
and +1 on octane, look at 110 race gas at least for long runs like that , tune for it ,
you need to keep combustion temps and detonation in check

If you need more hp then
Gears are a good option, but i am a little bias, i supply the gears to Extreme Creations, but higher SC speed for higher boost will increase the need for cooling

Cams help breathing without changing the thermal charactistics much , look at a recient intro from Braam and his comments about cams, there are also currently 3 soon to be a 4th in Australia with the H2R cams

Also compressor wheel can be oversized, same 4 bikes here have various sized and configured wheels done
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
"potentially at 40mile long stretches"...so you're saying WOT for 40 miles?.Hmmm...I think get it flashed and piped.Maybe a PCV.Since it's already doing 230 something HP stock,Brock's system(Stage 2?)could probably bring it up to 270 at least(probably closer to 300 actually).With a 14,200 limit.That might be better.BUT...if you're actually planning on running her wide open for 40 miles.It won't matter(? IMO).It's not gonna be okay for that motor...If it was stock and you did that...it would most likely break something.40 miles?WOT./forum/images/NinjaH2_org/smilies/tango_face_surprise.png
I don’t think 14000 rpm
Is safe
Onearmbandit blew his motor cuz of that
Also
Brock’s stage does straps which I don’t want cuz I want to be able to turn better then a busa/zx14
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Intercooler should be your first modification, for safer intake temperatures, plus your ONR (octane number required) is lowered. With an intercooler, and high octane fuel you can safely run more boost or timing, or in some applications both!
RPM’s create more heat, and load. Boost on the other hand do not hurt the engine if it is built to handle it... cylinder pressure does not go up drastically with boost pressure!
Problem is I did a busa at 340hp sae 176tq and blew engine couple times doing 40 mile wot. So I don’t want to void warranty like busa which keeps coming out pocket.
Also intercooler throws off balance of machine.
I want to be able to turn
No point having all horsepower if u can’t turn
Also 270-300 hp it’s hard to keep traction which slows u down on turn enter/exit speed
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
40 miles, your going to get tired hanging on /forum/images/NinjaH2_org/smilies/tango_face_wink.png
yes intercooler , the cooler you can make your inlet temps the better it will last
and +1 on octane, look at 110 race gas at least for long runs like that , tune for it ,
you need to keep combustion temps and detonation in check

If you need more hp then
Gears are a good option, but i am a little bias, i supply the gears to Extreme Creations, but higher SC speed for higher boost will increase the need for cooling

Cams help breathing without changing the thermal charactistics much , look at a recient intro from Braam and his comments about cams, there are also currently 3 soon to be a 4th in Australia with the H2R cams

Also compressor wheel can be oversized, same 4 bikes here have various sized and configured wheels done
So I bought a 2017 winter n dropped the racing kit in it
It changed the compression so I could only safely run 100 oct minimum for WOT
It was such a pain cuz I couldn’t refuel when I was doing the runs.
Intercooler through warranty out the window and through whatever turnability bike hasn’t out the window
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Was looking to do
ceramic wheel bearings
Flash (debating on 13-14k limit)
Either akro exhaust or Vandemon
Dyno tune with pcv


I had various bikes throughout the years and have done everything from stacks to full race engine.

I’m looking for reliability in terms of not void warranty and not sacrifice turn ability.

So far seems 270+ is unsafe for long wot runs
Maybe 250 like fellow chat member “lamf (rich)” did.
 

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Intake temperatures get too hot even in stock trim, you add more boost, temps go up, raise rpm, temps go up. I would rather have safe intake temperatures, also density recovery is 1:1 ratio with horsepower!
 

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"Onearmbandit blew his motor cuz of that"...well,I think you're possibly reaching on that one.Lots of things could blow a motor....who knows.That may seem obvious,but it doesn't have to be the reason.What kind of HP are you trying to get?You can get it as you know several ways with this bike.You mention something about 270 'too much' or something.Lots of guys are running 270HP now.Haven't heard of any blown engines from those guys.I still think a 40 mile wot run is asking for trouble.On any H2.That's a long ways at full stress.I've never even heard of something like this.Is it like a salt flats run or something?You mention 'turning'.A track maybe?A 40 mile track lol.What kind of 'turning' are you talking about.
 

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Ozbooster, just out of interest, are the H2R cams drop in and play (possibly with flash tuning etc.). or are they in conjunction with intercooler/PCV etc.?

Don.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
"Onearmbandit blew his motor cuz of that"...well,I think you're possibly reaching on that one.Lots of things could blow a motor....who knows.That may seem obvious,but it doesn't have to be the reason.What kind of HP are you trying to get?You can get it as you know several ways with this bike.You mention something about 270 'too much' or something.Lots of guys are running 270HP now.Haven't heard of any blown engines from those guys.I still think a 40 mile wot run is asking for trouble.On any H2.That's a long ways at full stress.I've never even heard of something like this.Is it like a salt flats run or something?You mention 'turning'.A track maybe?A 40 mile track lol.What kind of 'turning' are you talking about.
Lol the track is the interconnecting highways n parkways n potentially track days too

As for guys doing 270 and fine no blown engines.
-How come is it because they let engine cool down
-they don’t hold redline for long
-or they simply don’t do back to back 20+ mile runs wot
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
@OzBooster so u think cams will help circumvent this issue potentially
I did cams on Zx10rr n busa
It makes the engine spin up faster like a visible increase in transition from
low to mid
Mid to high

But is it really worth it with how much h2 already pushing out.
Maybe sc gears and low redline might be the answer.
It seems 250 ball park seems safer then anything more for trying to avoid what happened to OAB
 

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Ozbooster, just out of interest, are the H2R cams drop in and play (possibly with flash tuning etc.). or are they in conjunction with intercooler/PCV etc.?

Don.

Don they drop straight in, been told but not confirmed valve springs are same , but on mine just doing the inlet cam and using the old inlet on the exhaust side, the specs are similar
I do have a H2R exhaust cam here but the specs were so close i wanted to try the inlet on exhaust to see if it was a viable option for guys to buy 1 cam not 2

We have used them with stg 3 or 4 gears and IC, suppose they would help with any level of mods, also used ZX10 cams , there about 1/2 way between the H2 and H2R,
 

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@OzBooster so u think cams will help circumvent this issue potentially
I did cams on Zx10rr n busa
It makes the engine spin up faster like a visible increase in transition from
low to mid
Mid to high

But is it really worth it with how much h2 already pushing out.
Maybe sc gears and low redline might be the answer.
It seems 250 ball park seems safer then anything more for trying to avoid what happened to OAB

I dont mind the idea of reducing redline and increasing boost , forces increase exponentially as revs increase, if you can make your power at lower rpm i think it would help motor life
H2 cams are tiny,
Left to right , H2R inlet, 05 ZX10 inlet, H2inlet
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
@OzBooster so u think cams will help circumvent this issue potentially
I did cams on Zx10rr n busa
It makes the engine spin up faster like a visible increase in transition from
low to mid
Mid to high

But is it really worth it with how much h2 already pushing out.
Maybe sc gears and low redline might be the answer.
It seems 250 ball park seems safer then anything more for trying to avoid what happened to OAB

I dont mind the idea of reducing redline and increasing boost , forces increase exponentially as revs increase, if you can make your power at lower rpm i think it would help motor life
H2 cams are tiny,
Left to right , H2R inlet, 05 ZX10 inlet, H2inlet
That’s extremely interesting thank you for cam comparison
I did cams on winter Zx10rr n it made bike skip lows n entirely mid range n Jump to high rpms
Cams don’t make more power
They help you get to where the power is.
If I understand it correctly from my experience on my Zx10rr n turbo’d busa.

Also it seems consensus is more power lower redline.
So sc gears maybe cams and 13 redline?
 

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In my very limited knowledge of cams, that H2R cam looks "fat"! Meaning there seems to be - if I'm using the right terminology, more duration with the valves open as the profile looks not as suddenly "steep" as the 10 & H2 cam profiles. Does this give more "overlap" with the exhaust & inlet valves? I'm guessing the H2 inlet cam on exhaust side, even with that steeper profile (lift?) gels well with the larger H2R inlet cam?

Sorry if this sounds like a dog's breakfast, just trying to get my head around cams in general. Learnt a little bit on having my zx12r engine built to 1287 JE with custom cam profiles done by builder (Phil Tainton).

Don.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
In my very limited knowledge of cams, that H2R cam looks "fat"! Meaning there seems to be - if I'm using the right terminology, more duration with the valves open as the profile looks not as suddenly "steep" as the 10 & H2 cam profiles. Does this give more "overlap" with the exhaust & inlet valves? I'm guessing the H2 inlet cam on exhaust side, even with that steeper profile (lift?) gels well with the larger H2R inlet cam?

Sorry if this sounds like a dog's breakfast, just trying to get my head around cams in general. Learnt a little bit on having my zx12r engine built to 1287 JE with custom cam profiles done by builder (Phil Tainton).

Don.
Maybe that’s why the h2r revs up to 11k rpm so fast compared to h2
Ecu restrictions n exhaust aside
 
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