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LOL.I'm a tad surprised they couldn't get their GoPro to mount securely on there...sheesh!Want me to call em Turtle?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
LOL.I'm a tad surprised they couldn't get their GoPro to mount securely on there...sheesh!Want me to call em Turtle?
JC I almost lost my mind... All these guys running the streets have 2 and 3 of them so perfectly set up you know wtf??? Yeah they clearly need a lesson though.. Did you notice the views? I was 2nd lol Facebook is key.... It's gotta be the suction cup right? I've never used it but that wobble looks familiar
 

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IDK WHAT it is.Suctioned to the tank behind the screen,should have been better than that.But yeah...using that cup mount...it also needs a 'brace' keeping it from moving forward on the bumps and stuff.I've tried em all...the stem mount is THE best yet I've found.I mean...for straight forward shooting.The nose works really well also,using the sticky mount piece.I wouldn't even think about doing that on this paint surface though.


You cut a piece of dowel,velcro it to the underside of the cam housing...velcro that to the tank...it works really well...but still...sticking things like that on the paint...not so good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
IDK WHAT it is.Suctioned to the tank behind the screen,should have been better than that.But yeah...using that cup mount...it also needs a 'brace' keeping it from moving forward on the bumps and stuff.I've tried em all...the stem mount is THE best yet I've found.I mean...for straight forward shooting.The nose works really well also,using the sticky mount piece.I wouldn't even think about doing that on this paint surface though.


You cut a piece of dowel,velcro it to the underside of the cam housing...velcro that to the tank...it works really well...but still...sticking things like that on the paint...not so good.
I hear they come off with heat. Heat gun or hair dryer? I think the sportsman would work too. It's like a clamp that you screw down.
 

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The Standing Mile...what IS that?Some special 'do not exceed' 'performance' prover?Fer God's sake...get the bike out on a totally open straight...more than a mile...and run it.Get the REAL top speed down.That's I think what most guys want to know...how fast will this bird fly...regardless of distance.He's got his geared...naturally a mile isn't gonna prove much...I just don't get it.You could see how 'slow' it was trying to build speed...relatively speaking that is.

Mine did 190 in less than a mile...factory gearing but Rev limiter opened..and primaries reset to stay open.No factory exhaust either...you know.He did what...216?Something doesn't seem right there...he's pulling almost 300hp,right?Isn't it correct that with the H2R gearing,the H2 will pull 220 moph?Flashed to allow the motor to open up.Non-stock exhaust?
 

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If you firmly wedge your fingers under the sticky mounts,they will come off with steady pressure..a hair dryer will help also.The velcro patches are easier to lift off...that's true.This paint being what it is...I'd be leery about sticking anything on there that sets up for the strongest 'bond'.The 3m sticky stuff on those GoPro mounts mention the adhesive 'setting up' over a period of time for maximum grip.Don't know if this paint could deal with that?Probably.But if it didn't?(I mean 'removing' the mount(s).Be a SHAME to have to replace a fairing over a 'small' blemish that wouldn't buff out.
 

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The Standing Mile...what IS that?Some special 'do not exceed' 'performance' prover?Fer God's sake...get the bike out on a totally open straight...more than a mile...and run it.Get the REAL top speed down.That's I think what most guys want to know...how fast will this bird fly...regardless of distance.He's got his geared...naturally a mile isn't gonna prove much...I just don't get it.You could see how 'slow' it was trying to build speed...relatively speaking that is.

Mine did 190 in less than a mile...factory gearing but Rev limiter opened..and primaries reset to stay open.No factory exhaust either...you know.He did what...216?Something doesn't seem right there...he's pulling almost 300hp,right?Isn't it correct that with the H2R gearing,the H2 will pull 220 moph?Flashed to allow the motor to open up.Non-stock exhaust?
It is officially-timed, land speed racing. Most bikes will only gain 5-7 mph over that, even with another 1/2 mile to run. His speedo reads as high as 233...so if anyone is using theirs as a measure...here's your new benchmark. :D

The difference between 190 and 218, in top speed terms, is exponential. The hp required is vastly different. I say this, having fielded bikes at more than 20 LSR events.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Plus there needs to be a mile for the timing and who knows how long to slow down. Not a ton of closed courses that are 3+ miles long other than Area 51 and the various spots where they land the space shuttle. And salt flats of course. But then again I'm from the smallest state in the country so wtf do I know :laugh:
 

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Guys, this really is harder than it looks. What Rickey did by hitting 218 is incredible for his first time at the mile with this bike. This is not like cruising along at 70 and then gassing it. He went from a standing start to 218 mph in one mile! The skill and concentration needed to do that is incredible and he made it look very easy on his first time out there. I was pitted next to him and saw him try a few other gears and add ons, but 218 seemed to be the limit for the day. With more distance like the 1.5 mile in Maine, or 5 miles at Bonneville, I am guessing he could have gone a bit faster, but don't question his abilities.


My H2 was stock other than the ECU flash and ran a timed 177 (it showed about 190 on the speedo), and it was a real learning experience for me. A big part of going fast in the mile is getting a good start, that's why Rickey is such a natural. He told me that with a stock swing arm, he could not give it full power either for the first 1000 feet, so I didn't feel too bad. He showed me some videos from riding in Japan on the stocker showing the problems he had. I am going to learn to use the launch control more and work on my starts and see if I can't improve by the next time I run on pavement.


As for the camera mounts, Rickey was using the suction cup mounted to the windshield. He was getting a lot of bounce especially as he got over 200! I use a clamp mount on the triple tree and it seems to be more steady, but is hard to get a good view of the instruments. I think Rickey was more concerned about his data than the bouncing and shaking action.


As far as needing smaller sprockets, I don't think that will be the case for me any time soon. My fastest speed was in 5th gear at about 13,500 rpm, I never could go faster when I shifted into 6th. If anything for one mile racing, I might add a couple of teeth to the rear sprocket to see if that will help with the acceleration.


Ed
 

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It was a shame about the camera mount but I think we can all get the general idea that the Rickey Gadson bike is a tad fast.

I'm waiting for the ECU from my H2 to return from Brock and I also need some sprockets. It will be a week or two before all that comes together and my next outing at a standing-mile event will be July. As a bone stock bike, complete with mirrors and a full tank of fuel, it indicated 189 in a little over half a mile and cruised through the electronic speed trap at 184. This was at the last Elvington meeting and conditions were good with a little side wind. I think Rickey will be over the 220 mark pretty soon if he keeps on with LSR. My first aim with this bike is to get it over 200 and beat the 203.1 my ZZR1400 (ZX14R) achieved.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
It was a shame about the camera mount but I think we can all get the general idea that the Rickey Gadson bike is a tad fast.

I'm waiting for the ECU from my H2 to return from Brock and I also need some sprockets. It will be a week or two before all that comes together and my next outing at a standing-mile event will be July. As a bone stock bike, complete with mirrors and a full tank of fuel, it indicated 189 in a little over half a mile and cruised through the electronic speed trap at 184. This was at the last Elvington meeting and conditions were good with a little side wind. I think Rickey will be over the 220 mark pretty soon if he keeps on with LSR. My first aim with this bike is to get it over 200 and beat the 203.1 my ZZR1400 (ZX14R) achieved.
Wait didn't he just do 233 mph in this video?
 

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Wait didn't he just do 233 mph in this video?

The speedometer showed 233, but the timing lights "only" showed 218. My speedo was showing much higher also, but my fastest speed was 177 through the timing lights.
 

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So you guys have non-stock gearing?That's a heck of a difference for a stock setup.I ran an indicated 191 on mine....so I'd say,189?I'll gps it next time.The factory gearing will only let it hit 190 or so.My speed limiter has been disabled.I know it was gearing,cause the motor was ripping hard without limiting.At 14,100 K.
 

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So you guys have non-stock gearing?That's a heck of a difference for a stock setup.I ran an indicated 191 on mine....so I'd say,189?I'll gps it next time.The factory gearing will only let it hit 190 or so.My speed limiter has been disabled.I know it was gearing,cause the motor was ripping hard without limiting.At 14,100 K.
It is about 6.5% error. At 65 mph that would be about 4 mph off. I'd say that is pretty possible, as far as speedo error goes, from the factory. On the 14R, the wheelspeed sensors are what calculates the speed. Meaning, even if you change gearing, it should maintain the factory level of error. I would suspect the H2 is the same? A change of tire height, however, would likely change the speed reading.

At 190 mph indicated, with 6.5% of error, the actual speed would be 177. This is pretty close in line with what I have seen in the past, on standard machines. The tachometer throws another monkey wrench into the equation, as it is not uncommon for factory tachs to read 4-500 rpm high.

A standard 1HZ GPS is more accurate, but will definitely lag behind actual speeds a bit. There are small bluetooth transmitters that will accurately represent a 5HZ cycle rate, and interpolate to 10HZ. With those, you can capture that information via software, and save as an excel file. Then you can graph the acceleration.

It's been a few years since I messed with the software (I generally use a data logger for rpm/air fuel, and let the trap speeds tell the story). But there is some neat stuff out there. Probably even more advanced, now.
 

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I have these two radar speed indicators along the road here...next time I roll by,I'll look again.I think at 45 indicated with mine,the radar was showing 42.I think.I assume they'd be accurate,right?On my 14,I gps'd it at wide open.Just to confirm it's actual speed.It was showing 190 on the speedo(had been flashed)....the gps confirmed...190.So with that bike...there was no speedo error(at that speed).I expected there to be at least a few mph difference....there wasn't.

I know riding by those Radar deals,my 14 was 2 mph difference..below the indicated on the speedo.Sounds contradictory I know...but that's what it was...stock gearing...55 rear.No top speed limiter.RPM limit raised by 500.
 
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