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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So after realizing that I have to wear earplug with the TT3 baffle out, and now also inserted, I knew something was wrong. It was insanely louder than when I first bought it about six months ago. I looked inside of it and couldn't see any of the telltale white packing material. I contacted the manufacturer (We all know who) and he said it was unlikely it all burnt out or got pressure driven out.

Yeah. right. See pics below.

So, Here is how to fix it.

You will need a 5/32 drill bit on a drill, pop rivet kit, and 4 stroke muffler repacking. At the end I'll put a Amazon list of what you will need.

1. Remove the sound baffle. Remove the muffler. Tension spring first, then bolt holding it to the footpeg mounting bracket.

2. Put it on your bench or something solid with some towels under it so you don't scuff it.

3. Flip it over and use a 5/32 drill bit to drill the three pop rivets out. If you haven't done them before just PM me.

4. Put some fuking gloves on first! Then take a razor blade and run it along the channel between the cone part and the body of the muffler to try and scrape as much of the black RTV (or whatever sealant) that holds the two parts together. I made at least five full circle passes around and got a bunch of it out.

5. This can be done alone but way easier with help. I did it alone it just took a bit. Take a flat head screwdriver and a mallet and start tapping the two halves apart. Just tap then turn, tap then turn, and finally it will start moving. You will get it 80% of the way and then you can do it by hand because the RTV lets go. Just put it in your lap and pull one side, rotate 90 degrees and pull, keep going till it eventually pops apart. Once it pops apart the inner liner (looks like a cheese grater) is still actually stuck in the lower half. Just wiggle back and forth real hard and it will come out (Way easier to reinsert)

6. Open the pack of the 4 stroke packing material and cut a strip about 7 inches wide and the long length of the piece (see pic). You will have to trim more as you insert it, but its a good start.

7. Take the cone section of the muffler (which has the cheese grater still attached) and start wrapping the packing material around it, as tight as you can get it. Tighter the better here. I got almost the full wrap in.

8. Make sure you shove it all the way down into the cone section. (If you are partially retarded you can just throw a couple of rubber bands on it, they will just burn up), then trim the end off to right above the end of the cheese grater end.

9. Read this part...LINE UP THE HOLES BEFORE YOU PUT THE PARTS TOGETHER.

10. Spray a tiny bit of WD40 on the lip of the cone section so it will slide easier into the long section. Apply RTV if you like.

11. Slide the two halves together giving them a little bit of a spin in the same direction the packing material is wrapped in to keep it turning and inserting.

12. The cheese grater is long enough that it will self center, then if you lined up the holes you should be able to wiggle the two parts back together. This is not easy and they are not exactly 100% circular, but it can be done if you go slow.

13. Once its close to the bottom you can hold the cone section up, put a towel on the ground, and tap the muffler on the ground and the two halves will go together.

14. Use your pop rivet gun to put the three rivets back in. I used the third biggest size in the pack I listed below.

15. Reassemble the muffler on the headers, bolt together, spring back on, sound baffle back in.

15. Clean with WD-40 or rubbing alcohol before you start it !

Done.

Amazon:

TEKTON 6555 Rivet gun with 40 piece rivets $12.61
FMF Racing Muffler packing for 4 strokes 010590 $11.89

Its not as hard as you think.

NOLA
 

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Good write up
and good tips , you have done this before

Can i add one , you can use stainless steel scouring pads in place of the muffler packing for a one time pack and forget , the catering packs of 10-12 will usually do one muffler , the pads look like a disorganised ball of stainless swarf, but you can find the centre, open them up like a donut and slip them over the perforated tube, .
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
@OzBooster Thanks. Nope, first time.

Yeah, the picture I got on Amazon when I bought the packing material showed a multi layer product and the inner layer was steel wool. The product I got was not the same as the pic (Imagine that). So I figured i'd pack it and see how long it lasts and then try something else.

https://www.amazon.com/FMF-Racing-Muffler-Packing-4-Strokes/dp/B0012TTAIQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495896285&sr=8-1&keywords=4+stroke+muffler+repack

Apparently my fire breathing dragon is going to need it repacked twice a year. Or I could just stop making it afterfire between shifts for my amusement. :)

NOLA
 

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Yes, they do need repacking. I did similar job on the Brock's CT muffler for my 14R.

Actually quite straightforward if you have a methodical approach and assemble what's needed first.

Nice write-up.
 

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Is this the case with all aftermarket exhausts? I don't think I heard of an akra having to be rebuilt so soon after fitment? Hope my vandemon lasts:(
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I dont know, I had my Two Brothers on my GSXR for seven years and it sounded the exact same. Then again it wasnt throwing flames out of it on a regular basis.

I was wondering about the Vandemon also. Can it be disassembled for repair.

NOLA
 

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NOLA, how does the pipe sound now? What method did you use to keep the wrap on the cheese grater section?


Also, have the rivets fitted snugly on?


I have done this type of maintenance before to a Yoshimura exhaust in the past using blind/blank ended rivets so I've got limited experience.


Cheers,


Don.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
@H2015

Meh...Its ok. Not the same as when I got it, a bit louder than when it was new. But WAY better than it was before I repacked it. I would say 60% sound reduction when compared to stock. So pretty close.

Yes, use the third largest in the pack that I indicated I used.

I had never done it before. Don't be dissuaded. It was easier to do than to type all this out.

NOLA
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
@Vmax+h2

Excellent comment on the "how to rebuild a TT3 muffler thread." Helpful too. Dont rebuild it, toss it and buy a Vandemon.

276hp.

NOLA.
 

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I must add, joking aside, that my comments are based more on the excellent quality of the vandemon than anything else. I purchased a tt3 but never fitted it as I wasn't happy to put that on my bike from the get go. To each his own, just my opinion
 
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