Rearsets/shifter
Has anyone looked closely at that rearset.I 'appears' it may be able to lower the footpeg in the bracket,and also adjust the toe shift deal(the tip) aft.Whatta think?
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
I am hoping it will be possible to flip the shift lever over (which will require mounting it inside out and upside down and with the pedal from the other side) because I use reversed shift pattern.
I do not think the shift arm at the shift-shaft (on the engine end of the shift rod) has enough clearance to be flipped over, and I think the switch for the quick-shifter is in the shift rod, which means "pull" has to be downshift and "push" has to be upshift. Both of these means it has to be done on the footpeg end of the linkage.
If I can't do it with the stock shift lever then I'll have a custom one made on a CNC. No big deal. But it would be trick if this possibility were designed in.
I do not think the shift arm at the shift-shaft (on the engine end of the shift rod) has enough clearance to be flipped over, and I think the switch for the quick-shifter is in the shift rod, which means "pull" has to be downshift and "push" has to be upshift. Both of these means it has to be done on the footpeg end of the linkage.
If I can't do it with the stock shift lever then I'll have a custom one made on a CNC. No big deal. But it would be trick if this possibility were designed in.
Okay...yeah...good pic right there Pebble...thank you...it looks a bit different in my pic...certainly not clear like this one...
I don't think this bike was designed with the gp pattern. It's not as track oriented as the new bmw or r1. I could bee wrong but I don't remember seeing it. And I looked.
I prefer GP shift as well, will be looking into a set of adjustables. Woodcraft anyone?I am hoping it will be possible to flip the shift lever over (which will require mounting it inside out and upside down and with the pedal from the other side) because I use reversed shift pattern.
I do not think the shift arm at the shift-shaft (on the engine end of the shift rod) has enough clearance to be flipped over, and I think the switch for the quick-shifter is in the shift rod, which means "pull" has to be downshift and "push" has to be upshift. Both of these means it has to be done on the footpeg end of the linkage.
If I can't do it with the stock shift lever then I'll have a custom one made on a CNC. No big deal. But it would be trick if this possibility were designed in.
I was scouring old posts and I stumbled across this one...I prefer my LighTech R series to the Woodcraft... Don't get me wrong Woodcraft makes amazing products(and I am all about buying American made) ... But the Italian's have always been ahead of the game when it comes to style! I'm hoping more aftermarket parts start showing up sooner rather than later... I'm ready tweak the **** out of this beast and fit this bike to my riding style!I prefer GP shift as well, will be looking into a set of adjustables. Woodcraft anyone?
but its big brother is a track only bike, they share the same rearset etc... doesn't add up if it's so hard to switch to GP shifting modeI don't think this bike was designed with the gp pattern. It's not as track oriented as the new bmw or r1. I could bee wrong but I don't remember seeing it. And I looked.
personally I prefer that as well, all my bike, road or track is set up that way.
On top of that, it seems H2's quickshifter does not officially support clutchless downshift, wonder when will there be a thirty party solution to address that.
Take a close look at the shift rod. There is a sensor in it. In another view (more towards underneath) you can see the wire leading to it.
When you apply a certain amount of tension to the shift rod, the ECU cuts ignition momentarily which cuts engine power output for a short time (milliseconds) which unloads the transmission and allows the shift to be completed.
It allows upshifting without backing out of the throttle. Your clutchless (but non-quickshifted) shifts still require you to back out of the throttle to unload the transmission.
I have an aftermarket one on my zx10r, but I suspect the OEM integration will be more seamless.
When you apply a certain amount of tension to the shift rod, the ECU cuts ignition momentarily which cuts engine power output for a short time (milliseconds) which unloads the transmission and allows the shift to be completed.
It allows upshifting without backing out of the throttle. Your clutchless (but non-quickshifted) shifts still require you to back out of the throttle to unload the transmission.
I have an aftermarket one on my zx10r, but I suspect the OEM integration will be more seamless.
"If all it does is blip the throttle for me - uh - I can already do that myself"...full throttle shifts...IF you can hang on that is...which is one reason for having the other electronic aids..this aint no BS bike...you can open this thing up and shift anywhere along the rpm curve and it'll shift smooth and sweet.
mate, that's called personal preference, to me it just makes the bike a bit more stable and I like it that way. As per your "talent“ of blipping, rev matching, clutchless shifting, I happen to know all of them, matter of fact, I won't call them talent, more like basic skills after some time of riding, or even instinct tbh.I'm still not entirely clear what Kawasaki's quick shifter is or does. I've been shifting clutchless, and instantaneously, since the 90's on everything. Long as you're blipping up or rev matching on the way down every modern bike is capable of clutchless operation without exception.
My point is, how does KQS function and why do I need it? If all it does is blip the throttle for me - uh - I can already do that myself. No thanks. I also assumed that this was a talent all motorcycle riders possessed by the time they reached the 200hp hyperbike level of skill. I just can't help but wonder that if you really need a computer to go clutchless, maybe you should learn to ride properly instead? If the argument is 300 milliseconds vs 60 milliseconds - I still don't see the value. If I really need the extra milliseconds I'll tuck in a little tighter or skip lunch. If you're gonna let the computer do it for you - why not just make it an automatic at that point or put F1 thumb paddles on it?
Does it require a button push?
My point is, if the tech if available to make things easier, why not?
Qs is waaaaay better than clutchless up shifts anything you can do the computer can do better, faster, more consistent.Safer, no missed wide open shifts at 140. All the new bikes come stock with it for a reason. If I'm on my 10 without a qs roll racing someone with an aftermarket qs on a 10 and we are of equal skill and everything is equal I will lose without qs. You can just hold wot and hang the f on. Sounds sooo good to. Like the f1s before they f'd them up
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
- This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Ninja H2
A forum community dedicated to Kawasaki Ninja H2 motorcycle owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, modifications, classifieds, riding gear, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Top Contributors this Month
View AllRecommended Communities
