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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was able to update my H2 in Aug by purchasing the Stage 2 kit from Brock - slip on, flash, and PCV.. The dealership that I purchased the bike was able to manage the install.. Unfortunately, they do not have a dyno which could provide me some base numbers to compare before and after results.

I had a opportunity to have the bike put on a dyno during a local event. I was able to meet with the owner of the dyno and have him do a few pulls so I may get a idea what type of power the bike was putting down to the rear. We reviewed the tire pressure (38 rear), KTC off, and weather was 72 degrees {did not have humidity readings}. Also, the dyno jet was a 250i .. The owner advised that the 250i was a low reading dyno. He had 2 other H2's (stock) run a 196 and 198 whp as well as 96 and 98 ft/lb torque.

The graph below shows the result from the dyno pull. My bike made a 220 whp / 92 torque. My butt dyno felt under whelmed after getting the bike back with the flash and mods. The only difference I could notice was from my butt dyno. The H2 seemed to pull strong from 145-150t through 190+ (GPS) but not sure if that would be due to the flash taking the restrictions off or other adjustments..

This question is for Brock and some of the guys that have already went through the process installing the Brock stage 2 kit.Was there any possible installation problems that could cause the lower torque and hp pulls? The ECU and mods was installed by dealer.

I appreciate the feedback! I have the full exhaust on order along with the DNA air filter.. I wish I lived closer to Brock's shop so they could do the install. Unfortunately, I live to far away. I don't trust dealerships or shops in my area working on this bike
 

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Your readings are in line with an H2 with a flash. Mine had 223 with stock exhaust and stock filter. Next, I am pretty sure Brock does not do installs, but he probably has someone in your area. Next, find a skilled tuner and stick with him. If you use one dyno and get 220 and use another and get 230 with a mod, you will never know if it was the mod, or the dyno switch that made the difference. Always baseline your stuff and test each component individually. The exception is if you bought a tested package from someone like Brock where you got the ECU, the pipe and filter and he gave you a map to use and told you to expect "X" hp on a 250 dyno. Good luck.


Also, you should list your location so others can chime in with their recommendations for tuners.
 
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Mine made 220.1 bhp at the wheel with the stock exhaust and Brock's Flash 1, also on a Dynojet 250.

If you want much more you will have to change or modify the exhaust system.
 

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torque and hp dip from 12250rpm has hurt your totals , no change in a/f so i am wondering if you have some wheelslip
looks like it was heading for 230 ish
 

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Your AFR looks like it is 12:1 across the top? That will rob power on the dyno. Are you using the race gas map with pump gas, by chance?

Also, you are showing an SAE correction factor; STD correction factor would read about 5 hp higher.

And finally, DJ250's can vary by 6-8 hp, depending on installation and setup of the dyno.
 

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Interesting to see the curve on thudson's dyno chart. It peaks in the high 13,000rpm range. The Brock's Flash 2 giving extended rpm over the stock setting.

My bike has the Flash 1, so the 13,000 rpm limit is preserved but the peak power is at around 12,000 rpm. I was hoping to see it higher but thought this was a function of the stock exhaust system and air filter. The torque on the other hand was 99.4 ft-lbs.

Thoughts anyone?
 

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Bob,

Any chance you have the AFR from the dyno run? I would guess it's dumping too much fuel past 12k since your power drop off looks similar to a stock bike.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I missed some information on the original posting.. I am located in Mpls Mn. I am running 89 octane pump fuel.. Also, I am running the Brock Slip-on (still have the cat)..

I feel that the Power Commander is not installed properly. After sending out this post, I was up late last night attempting to break down the bike. The lack of space and time prevented me from getting to deep into the break down. I feel that the PCV was not installed properly which hopefully will correct the lower readings. I am going to the original dealership and having them break it down to review the installation.

I can't wait for Brock to send out the next batch of preordered full exhausts.. Once the new exhaust and air filter arrives, I have identified a shop to assist on the installation. I will have Dyno pulls for current set up and the changes so I can identify the proper gains.
 

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The PCV is relatively simple to install. The Dyno Jet directions leave a bit to be desired as I had to loosen or move some thing to get it to fit. Essentially you are plugging in a couple connectors and then splicing into three wires (?) and hooking up a ground. When they go to tuning it, I'm pretty sure it won't work if it was done wrong. The tuning is more complicated and you want the best guy you can hire to do it. They don't have to tune each cylinder in 100 rpm segments, but more in a "block" setting in certain rpm groups. What you will notice when it is done right is that it will pick up 3 hp down low and then continue to improve. Some of the low end stumble will also be removed by richening that area too. For fuel, I try to always use a high octane (93), ethanol-free gas. I use the Pure Gas app on my phone to locate that and might even compare with the Gas Buddy app to tell me who has the best prices.


I will be working on my H2 over the next few weeks and will try to get pictures of each step of the installation if anyone is interested.
 

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thudson,

All the above input is valid.

What I don't like are the 'waves' in the top of your chart - that makes me believe that your tire may not have been in proper contact with the drum. Bikes with this type of power will spin the tire and skew your results. 5-10% slippage is a big deal above 200 HP and it's not easy to spot.

One other item: without showing the conditions (temp/humidity/correction factor etc. AKA: print the notes on page 2.-we won't print or post a dyno chart without them..) your chart is little or to no help to a tuner. With this data, we can give you valid feedback. Our bike that just ran at the Ohio Mile LSR event last weekend was 'down' 10 RWHP after we rode it back from the event and straight onto our dyno. This was simply due to a decrease in barometric pressure and an increase in humidity (the H2 will drop @6-8 HP for every 20% or so the humidity increases), compared to when it made it's best power... it still ran 219 MPH and set multiple national (world?) records.

Brock
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
thudson,

All the above input is valid.

What I don't like are the 'waves' in the top of your chart - that makes me believe that your tire may not have been in proper contact with the drum. Bikes with this type of power will spin the tire and skew your results. 5-10% slippage is a big deal above 200 HP and it's not easy to spot.

One other item: without showing the conditions (temp/humidity/correction factor etc. AKA: print the notes on page 2.-we won't print or post a dyno chart without them..) your chart is little or to no help to a tuner. With this data, we can give you valid feedback. Our bike that just ran at the Ohio Mile LSR event last weekend was 'down' 10 RWHP after we rode it back from the event and straight onto our dyno. This was simply due to a decrease in barometric pressure and an increase in humidity (the H2 will drop @6-8 HP for every 20% or so the humidity increases), compared to when it made it's best power... it still ran 219 MPH and set multiple national (world?) records.

Brock
Thanks Brock and Group for comments.. I agree that the lower readings may be attributed to the bike not being strapped in properly causing the rear tire to slip. Also, the weather was humid that day. This was a portable dyno that was set up outside one of the local dealerships. It rained 2 hrs after the bike was dyno'd.

I was concerned since I don't trust many people working on this bike.. I appreciate all the work Brock is doing on the H2 and sharing his personal feedback!
 

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Bob,

Any chance you have the AFR from the dyno run? I would guess it's dumping too much fuel past 12k since your power drop off looks similar to a stock bike.
I'm not an expert on this so I asked the dyno operator the same question about the AFR. He said he goes by CO content, said it was more reliable and that my bike was in the 5% range. I believe that's 12.6 AFR. I might go for another dyno session though to see if we can pick up a bit more above 12,000.
 

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Hi. I'm happy with the Bike and Brock is really available and a good person.

But I had the same result.

I had dna filter exhaust without kat with akra terminal no Db killer, power commander and Brock stage2 ecu.

My Bike had around 193 whp before and 218 after the stage2.

I put the Bike in another dyno without forced air and I had same result 220.

After this two dynos I went to a third One with forced air and I Saw 241-242 whp.

I don t know his they can find 250+hp because I put all in my Bike and stil run 220.

I saw now Also 275whp.... I don t know
 

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Hi. I'm happy with the Bike and Brock is really available and a good person.

But I had the same result.

I had dna filter exhaust without kat with akra terminal no Db killer, power commander and Brock stage2 ecu.

My Bike had around 193 whp before and 218 after the stage2.

I put the Bike in another dyno without forced air and I had same result 220.

After this two dynos I went to a third One with forced air and I Saw 241-242 whp.

I don t know his they can find 250+hp because I put all in my Bike and stil run 220.

I saw now Also 275whp.... I don t know
The 274hp was track map & tuned for/w oxygenated race fuel.
I've seen dynos (believe street maps) w/ 255-260 + at places other than at Brocks so 260 is being produced but that was with Brocks full exhaust, could be that's what you need, its what all the testing & tuning for the stage 2 has been with; Brocks full exhaust.
 

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Buying the exact performance package as researched, tested & now proven was the way I thought best to go, using exactly the same 4 bolt ons; stage 2 Brocks ECU Flash, DNA filter, PCV w/ Brocks mapping, Brocks full exhaust.....

I see you have the Akra assume welded in mid pipe. Brock already gave his feedback re: the waves in the of the top of the chart & wheel slippage, drop in barometric pressure, rise in humidity, he's the expert not me by a long shot but noticed Thudson has the OEM cat. I'm sure all the hard work that went into the exhaust to produce the most power is legitimate & fruitful. Besides the whole design of the headers, muffler, etc, guessing but the mid pipe could also be part of why it probably makes more HP, it's not a single pipe but 2 which then leads to one large pipe before the muffler:

 

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From 220 to 260 it s not the exhaust.

But Anyway Brock t old me exhaust it s about 7-8 hp no more.

From my poi t of view you have strange dyno in the usa If the ecu is the same.

No exhaust can give in the world 30-40 hp

I told I'm happy but my Bike it s not a 250+ hp bike
 

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Just trying to help.
You said 220 without forced air, 241-242 with forced air which would be more like real world/conditions, yes?
Add the 8hp (as you said) & by US or ROW math that adds up to 250 no?
 
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