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Hello I’m considering buying a used h2.. my question is.. all I hear about on these bikes is boost temps.. and you have to constantly monitor them.. now my riding style is just cruising down the highway at say 80 90 with the OCCASIONAL highway pull to like 180 and shuttin er down.. then people that have them I see are saying, get a intercooler, then don’t worry about it.. well i don’t have 2k sitting in a drawer (assuming I buy one without a intercooler) so my question is, what are safe riding boost temps and what are the temps I should worry about. Now say I hit that scary temp, do I immediately shut the bike off and coast to a stop, or do I just let off the throttle.. not sure what to do.. thanks for the advice not looking for hate. Just advice
 

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The way u are riding the bike will never ever give u high boost temps. If u keep the stock super charger gears don't worry about the temps. Better look up the road instead of looking at your temp gauge.
 

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Yep... What NAZAR Said. You won't need an intercooler for just everyday spirited riding. The only time I've heard of owners purchasing them outside of doing a supercharger gear upgrade is if they live in a SUPER hot area. Like the middle of summer, LAS VEGAS type heat. This helps keeps temps down but even then, I've never heard of anyone reaching a "critical" temp without it.

I'm sure if anyone else chimes in on this, they will echo the same thing. You'll be fine.
 

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Its all to do with eliminating Pre-Ignition & Detonation.
Human nature, everybody wants more boost pressure which = more power.,,,,,,,& more heat
Now I'm thinking of finding some APE Cylinder Studs to fit the H2SXSE & sandwiching a few head gaskets to drop the CR to 10:1., the H2SXSE is about 12.2:1, that is high for a Supercharged Motor. Kawasaki has now proceeded to put restrictions into the ECU referenced off Boost Pressure. Mine will only get to 11700rpm, then the ECU closes the Throttle Valve. Poorly tuned motors without enough boost cooling under high boost have been known to explode.
A zero to 5 vdc Potentiometer on the sensor output voltage should do it.
 

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The real H2 is only 8.5:1 for a good reason. If you want to get a second hand one 2017-18 are good then they go to the toy display. Real H2 riders only need to see the RPM in their peripheral vision, if your looking at the other stuff then you are riding way below the potential of the machine.
 

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H2 is 8.5:1 to eliminate pre-ignition & detonation, the only problem with that is that all extra torque is in the top end, not the mid & lower rpm riding ranges. No need for a Potentiometer, although it seems to be the same thing;
Turbosmart FCD2, Fuel Cut Defender TS-0303-1002
 

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H2 is 8.5:1 to eliminate pre-ignition & detonation, the only problem with that is that all extra torque is in the top end, not the mid & lower rpm riding ranges. No need for a Potentiometer, although it seems to be the same thing;
Turbosmart FCD2, Fuel Cut Defender TS-0303-1002
My re-flashed 2016 H2 was dynoed at 225 hp before the rear wheel started slipping, the guy didn't tie the bike down thinking he could put his hand on the roof of the trailer and push it down. Anyway the torque curve was absolutley flat I couldn't believe how flat it was that thing makes torque top to bottom. And I'll tell you what it's a monster to ride you don't need any more torque down low.
 
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