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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I'm FINALLY going to do my first LSR, and this one will be a good one, 1.5 mile run with 1/2 mile of shut-down.
This is in the Mojave desert in CA on an Airforce runway strip.
If anyone else is going let me know.
I'll be showing up for tech on Sat afternoon and competing on Sun.
registration is open now, but almost sold out.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
LSR Prep

So as most of you already know next weekend I'm heading out to the Mojave desert to do my first LSR. Just wanted to thank @BobC & @Brock and a few others for your tips and answering all my questions, and a special thanks to @slpman Rod who spent a lot of time with me via email in prep, and Rod will be competing at Mojave as well.

So for anyone who may be interested in what I've done in prep to go from roadracing to LSR here's the pics. Sorry for the long post but these details may be helpful to any other newbies to LSR.

In this pic you'll see the mirrors & wings removed for less drag. I've also blocked off the false air duct on the right side with a ridged piece of cardboard. Also my builder loaded a different map in the flash which he calls "beast mode" which is way more aggressive and turned the timing up. And Brock's heavy clutch was installed over a year ago.




Had to drill/safety wire the lugnuts so installed the stock rims, the BSTs have really deep wells that would have made this impossible to wire. Also went with Dunlop GPA Pros instead of my Pirelli slicks




You may remember my cut-out windshield for the inset GoPro mount, I removed that and installed a fresh windscreen for aerodynamics




Installed Brock's lowering links and took them down as far as they would go




dropped the front end to 26.28mm




installed Brock's steering damper risers/spacers (which you need when you drop the front end)




Installed Extreme Creations hyperdrive hub, now at 19/38 gearing




Mandatory lanyard kill switch installed, went with Pingel




Moved the hip rests back to their farthest back possition




Added a stearing-stem GoPro mount and angled it off to the side as to not interfere with my view of the tach. Also added a red tape line to the tach at my 14k rev limiter




Since I'm "rookie" status and have to jump through their hoops to move up in speed classes I've taped a cheat sheet to the gas tank. Kinda dumb but I don't want to blow a run cause I was confused about what speed I have to limit to




Obviously street hardware removed, but I've added a professional lav microphone under the tail section to pick up pipe scream and no wind noise. Has been tested at speed, sounds great.






My wife snapped a pic as I was taking her out for a test run to see how it felt after being lowered. You can see how much my knees are bent in this pic




More pics & video to come after the event next weekend.
cheers
Terry
 
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Good luck . Obviously it makes sense to move the hip supports fully back for this event but how does it look ?
If they served no purpose and were fixed do you think they look better forwards or backwards in your opinion ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I think no H2 owner would notice that I have them moved back, you really can't tell.
it's only about an inch of movement.
 
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Nice setup, the only thing i think you need check from there is the front fender clearance under heavy braking,
clearance must be greater than suspension travel
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Nice setup, the only thing i think you need check from there is the front fender clearance under heavy braking,
clearance must be greater than suspension travel
ohhh, is that something they check in tech?
I've test ridden the bike an checked the ziptie on the fork.
how exactly would you do your test to check for clearance?
is grabbing the front brake and pushing it down/up/down enough? cause that's what I did when I first dropped it and the clearance is very close.
 

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Hey racer 172, how tall are you ? Once you get past 190 your biggest concern is wind resistance, you gotta be able to tuck tight. Make sure your leathers aren't restricting your range of motion, you need to be comfortable on the bike.... Good luck to you !!! ... I've done it twice, I'm addicted now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hey racer 172, how tall are you ? .
I'm 5' 10" 147lbs and I'm pretty good about getting small in a tuck, quite a bit of practice over 200 so I should be good there.
 

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This should be awesome, i am really looking forward to seeing the results:)

Good luck, be safe, go fast!

I hope you hit 235 mph on the GPS / timing lights.

What does your bike dyno at the rear wheel in this configuration?

What race fuel are you going to be using?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
What does your bike dyno at the rear wheel in this configuration?
What race fuel are you going to be using?
I don't know for sure, it hasn't been dyno'd in about a year and we've done a lot since then adding the intercooler and making the timing more aggressive, but it's close to 300.
It's just tuned with 91 pump gas
I wanted to tune it with race gas before going to Mojave but my tuner doesn't really have the time and didn't seem that interested.
Maybe we can get that done before the next Mojave event and compare the differences.
 

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ohhh, is that something they check in tech?
I've test ridden the bike an checked the ziptie on the fork.
how exactly would you do your test to check for clearance?
is grabbing the front brake and pushing it down/up/down enough? cause that's what I did when I first dropped it and the clearance is very close.
Nice post and great photo set. According to Kawasaki the front wheel travel for the H2 is 4.7 inches and 5.3 for the rear. Suggesting that you need at least this clearance (4.7) between the front fender and the underside of the fairing. I haven't measured it Terry, I'm just sat at my computer in the office.

(just went into the garage for a look-see. Mine appears to be less than that, so not sure where Kawasaki get their figure from but it's here: https://www.cycleworld.com/2015/03/...cycle-review-first-ride-photos-specifications)

Ok, the proper way to do it is with shorter springs but when we had a clearance problem in the past we used a combination of dropping the triple-trees down the fork leg and strapping the front.

Doing it this way, compared to only dropping it down the fork leg, you could get it to the height you wanted without the fender hitting the underside of the nose fairing on full compression.

The other advantage, compared to only strapping it down, was that there was some much needed suspension travel left.
 

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Yes to all Bobs comments,
you can internally lower them, and end up with less travel but same bottom out position as original , ok if your straight line racing often but for one weekend the straps are a good idea

Very high speed puts a lot of pressure on the front, you counteract this with torque until shutdown , thats when you get the problems
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
^ thanks Bob & Oz, I followed some of that math..
First of all there's no strapping allowed in this event.
My forks have been completely redone internally to fit K-tech internals so they travel comely to the bottom of the stroke now, so not sure about the math thing, but I did a physical test, I did some test braking taking the fork ziptie completely to the bottom of the stroke and the front fender did not touch the cowling so I'm good.
 
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My bike is lowered 1” and now with this discussion it’s making me a little nervous about clearance there is a wicked bump about mid track that I hit on my second run it practically threw me off if it weren’t for having my toes under the shifter and rear brake pedals I would definitely come way off the seat I completely closed the throttle when it bounced my body up so hopefully if I hit it again the fender or worse the pipes don’t hit. I’m going to check with the official this time and ask were
the bump is and can it be avoided
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
there is a wicked bump about mid track that I hit on my second run it practically threw me off
oh wow, good to know. Let's look into this.
Rod my front is dropped to just over 26mm
how far is yours dropped?

 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
about mid track that I hit on my second run it practically threw me off if it weren’t for having my toes under the shifter and rear brake pedals I would definitely come way off the seat I completely closed the throttle when it bounced my body up so hopefully if I hit it again the fender or worse the pipes don’t hit.
Rod, this is an email from Mike Borders who runs the event:

"Terry, at our last event, there was a bump at about the 3/4 mile mark, but it was on the left side of the runway which we aren't using this time. It may have been smoothed over in the past 18 months, but we don't know for sure. You will have to take a closer look on your track drive. While the runway is smooth, it isn't perfect, so as a matter of course we caution all drivers to check it out for themselves and weigh it against their comfort level of speed and safety.

We always take input from the racers about track conditions and pass them on in real time at the event. I am expecting that we will all examine the overall condition of the runway when we get started and adjust if necessary for everyone's safety."
 

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Thanks for the post from Mike Borders yeah that ump was pretty bad and I hit it at about 180mph so it scared me pretty good. I must have missed it the first time I ran. My bike is lowered 1” front and rear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·

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I am surprised with all the effort you are putting into lower the bike, gearing etc... you are not running race gas .... probably leaving about 20 rwhp on the table!
 
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