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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The H2R I bought, while new, had been removed from the crate and carelessly wiped down a couple times creating a micro scratch fiasco of biblical proportions. This is how I put it back to its original flawless condition;



(If you don't have lots of experience with a professional buffer, this might be a bit perilous.)

Tool used; Flex PE8 (the Griots rig probably works fine too). You'll also need the extension and 3,2,1 inch backing plates.

Pads: 3M 3" black and blue Perfect it. I cut the pads down to 3 sizes; 3", 2" and 1".

I began using all the 'recommended' products. To put it nicely, was a disaster. Dr. Beasley's created a mess that was exponentially worse than the one I was trying to correct. I worked with them via email for two weeks and although well-intentioned, everything they told me was wrong. In fairness their HS fine polish worked okay at removing deeper scratches but it decimated the underling material with some of the worst swirl marks I have ever seen.

To clean up the standard micro scratches as well as the mess created by Dr. Beastly's I dug deep into my vast detailing repertoire to find the best combination of products, regardless of their source. After trying many, many, different routes working under the ugliest of LED and fluorescent, here's what appeased my obsessive compulsive need for perfection;

Start with Zymol's 'HD cleanse' to remove all the previous waxes/chemicals on top of your clear.

Move on to a light compound of your choice, varying pad size to match the area you're working in - I used the Beasley's light polishstuff only on the toughest spots, for everything else I used 3M's ultra fine machine polish 6068 and the light blue 3M pads. Working SLOWLY and at the lowest speed, vary direction and pressure and be SUPER careful of the edges. This stuff is insanely thin. You'll need to make 3 or 4 attempts before it's perfect.

HD cleanse it again to remove the fillers left behind by the compound.

For the detailing part you're going to need some special microfibers. The most important thing is to get rid of the sewn edges and anything with tags. If it has tags, put it down and walk away. I tried the autozone brand, I tried the Sams club brand, I bought some 'nice' ones from a local detailing supply place; all crap. You'd finish a panel and the final wipe the rag would wreck all the work I just did. Mind you, all of those rags worked great on cars and other bikes - but the H2's clear is a menace. THE rags to use are the Creature green edgeless ones on the Rag Company's site.

Now you should have unprotected scratch-free clear coat. Here's how to make it impervious to future scratching;

Start with Zymol Councours. Don't rush, use plenty of overlap. Do the whole bike at least twice.
Then get McGuires Ultimate paste wax and apply a coat to everything and let it sit overnight. The Zymol is the protection layer that'll last for at least a year with moderate use, the McGuires is the optical performer. It's #1 on every detailers favorite list for a reason. I do it this way because McGuires doesn't last very long and you have to reapply - it's also not very durable. Looks AMAZING though.

Very important - when applying wax, dab/pat, don't wipe back and forth or in circles.

The final step and the crowning jewel is to apply NXT 2.0 to everything and let it set for 24 hours.

It'll take another 24 hours for the fillers in the NXT to settle completely, but when you're done your bike will practically glow in the dark. It'll also be impervious to future scratching and it will look amazing under even the harshest fluorescent light.

Once you've gone through that nightmare, the upkeep is a cake walk. Just use a small spritzer filled with bottled water for wipe downs and occasionally reapply NXT 2.0 whenever it needs a pick me up.

-----------

That may sound like a long, drawn out fiasco but you can remove a panel at a time, take it in the house and do it at your leisure. It's more than worth the effort.

You can also start with that combination of wax and rags and just never have a micro scratch to begin with. I know Kawi likes Dr. Beasley's and you may too - if it's working for you, definitely stick with it. In my case unfortunately, all their products did was wreck shop, make haze and swirl marks and smell like harsh chemicals.

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Cliff,

Can you post some before and after pictures to show your results ?

Rhody...
I already had the before pics (normally I wouldn't have taken pics at all but Dr. Beasley's requested it), took some after pics and compressed them as far as I could without making them worthless…only to discover this site only allows 10mb of storage for images. I'll have to find someplace else to upload them so it may take a bit longer than I thought.
 

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The H2R I bought, while new, had been removed from the crate and carelessly wiped down a couple times creating a micro scratch fiasco of biblical proportions. This is how I put it back to its original flawless condition;



(If you don't have lots of experience with a professional buffer, this might be a bit perilous.)

Tool used; Flex PE8 (the Griots rig probably works fine too). You'll also need the extension and 3,2,1 inch backing plates.

Pads: 3M 3" black and blue Perfect it. I cut the pads down to 3 sizes; 3", 2" and 1".

I began using all the 'recommended' products. To put it nicely, was a disaster. Dr. Beasley's created a mess that was exponentially worse than the one I was trying to correct. I worked with them via email for two weeks and although well-intentioned, everything they told me was wrong. In fairness their HS fine polish worked okay at removing deeper scratches but it decimated the underling material with some of the worst swirl marks I have ever seen.

To clean up the standard micro scratches as well as the mess created by Dr. Beastly's I dug deep into my vast detailing repertoire to find the best combination of products, regardless of their source. After trying many, many, different routes working under the ugliest of LED and fluorescent, here's what appeased my obsessive compulsive need for perfection;

Start with Zymol's 'HD cleanse' to remove all the previous waxes/chemicals on top of your clear.

Move on to a light compound of your choice, varying pad size to match the area you're working in - I used the Beasley's light polishstuff only on the toughest spots, for everything else I used 3M's ultra fine machine polish 6068 and the light blue 3M pads. Working SLOWLY and at the lowest speed, vary direction and pressure and be SUPER careful of the edges. This stuff is insanely thin. You'll need to make 3 or 4 attempts before it's perfect.

HD cleanse it again to remove the fillers left behind by the compound.

For the detailing part you're going to need some special microfibers. The most important thing is to get rid of the sewn edges and anything with tags. If it has tags, put it down and walk away. I tried the autozone brand, I tried the Sams club brand, I bought some 'nice' ones from a local detailing supply place; all crap. You'd finish a panel and the final wipe the rag would wreck all the work I just did. Mind you, all of those rags worked great on cars and other bikes - but the H2's clear is a menace. THE rags to use are the Creature green edgeless ones on the Rag Company's site.

Now you should have unprotected scratch-free clear coat. Here's how to make it impervious to future scratching;

Start with Zymol Councours. Don't rush, use plenty of overlap. Do the whole bike at least twice.
Then get McGuires Ultimate paste wax and apply a coat to everything and let it sit overnight. The Zymol is the protection layer that'll last for at least a year with moderate use, the McGuires is the optical performer. It's #1 on every detailers favorite list for a reason. I do it this way because McGuires doesn't last very long and you have to reapply - it's also not very durable. Looks AMAZING though.

Very important - when applying wax, dab/pat, don't wipe back and forth or in circles.

The final step and the crowning jewel is to apply NXT 2.0 to everything and let it set for 24 hours.

It'll take another 24 hours for the fillers in the NXT to settle completely, but when you're done your bike will practically glow in the dark. It'll also be impervious to future scratching and it will look amazing under even the harshest fluorescent light.

Once you've gone through that nightmare, the upkeep is a cake walk. Just use a small spritzer filled with bottled water for wipe downs and occasionally reapply NXT 2.0 whenever it needs a pick me up.

-----------

That may sound like a long, drawn out fiasco but you can remove a panel at a time, take it in the house and do it at your leisure. It's more than worth the effort.

You can also start with that combination of wax and rags and just never have a micro scratch to begin with. I know Kawi likes Dr. Beasley's and you may too - if it's working for you, definitely stick with it. In my case unfortunately, all their products did was wreck shop, make haze and swirl marks and smell like harsh chemicals.

Good luck!
Wow! You spent a lot of time with this post. Thank you!
 

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In my opinon there is only one way to protect the paint on these bikes ,that is to get them wrapped,i have had this done and the result is I no longer worry about scratching it when I wash bugs of it or when I am putting my legs against the tank or my jacket rubs on it.
 

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Information such as this is always useful so thanks Cliff.

I know that by now we all wash, rinse and dry our H2"s with the utmost care. may I add a comment about polishing an H2, one which is not micro-scratched. Only apply the polish and buff off in straight back-and-forth movements. NEVER go round and round as this will leave swirls and ruin the glassy look. Obviously yes to microfiber cloths and yes to good quality polish.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
In my opinon there is only one way to protect the paint on these bikes ,that is to get them wrapped,i have had this done and the result is I no longer worry about scratching it when I wash bugs of it or when I am putting my legs against the tank or my jacket rubs on it.
I always wrap the back half of the tank for what it's worth. Which reminds me; If anyone needs a precut Xpel ultimate knee/zipper wrap, I have a template and can make you one. Just cover the cost of materials and shipping and I'm happy to hook you up. There is a little excess around the bottom and edges so you can stretch it as much as you need to and trim it (the non-critical areas under the seat and plastic trim).
 
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