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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Oil filters!

Spent some time banging my head against the wall so thought I would post some info here to save someone else the headache.

Kawasaki's OEM spare part (made in Thailand) is: 16097-0009
It's 80mm wide and street cost in the USA is about US$14 or in Australia AU$32 (US$23)

Thought I would see what else was available as I prefer to use an oil filter with a nut on top, easy to torque correctly, easy to remove, easy to race-wire it on the bike too.



K&N have a lookup on their website, the 2015/2016 H2 is listed as a KN-303 and this is where the headache starts. The 303 is the right filter for a Z900RS, Z1000 , ZX10R, ZX14, Ninja 400 and about a million other Kawasaki's including even Jetskis.
It's the equivalent of Kawasaki part: 16097-0008

The KN-303 filter is 65mm wide instead of 80mm wide and while it has the same thread and similar size o-ring (3mm difference in diameter) it's certainly not the same filter.

Kawasaki could have easily used the 16097-0008 but instead developed a filter that is only used on the H2/H2R. The 15mm canister size difference would equal a much bigger surface area of the internal filter and they obviously thought it necessary, unlike K&N who seem to think if it screws in it's okay.

Anyway, I contacted K&N who told me:
The KN-303 & KN-303C is the recommended oil filter for the 2015 Kawasaki ZX1000 Ninja H2R, the oil filter is designed to meet or exceed the OEM specifications.

They weren't interested that the H2/H2R was a different part number and the filter was a different size.

Race Performance (prob an Aussie brand) also make a RP-303 as a 16097-0008 replacement but don't list it for the H2/H2R. It's a good filter on my 900 and my sons 400 but I'm not about to put an undersized filter on the H2.

HifloFiltro do make a specific Ninja H2 / Ninja H2R filter in their "racing" series with 17mm lock-wire drilled nut on top.

Hiflofiltro: HF124RC
Hiflofiltro: Catalogue

What happened to K&N? They used to be a good company. [email protected] and [email protected] (both anonymous replies) were totally disinterested in the part number and size difference.

The punchline is HIFLO who also make a 303 filter understand that the spec of the H2 filter might actually be important.

Here's some pics too.
 

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When it comes to these H2 engines, Kawasaki has done thousands of hours of testing to ensure maximum engine performance, safety and reliability. I wouldn't recommend using anything but the recommended OEM oil & filter on these engines.
 

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When it comes to these H2 engines, Kawasaki has done thousands of hours of testing to ensure maximum engine performance, safety and reliability. I wouldn't recommend using anything but the recommended OEM oil & filter on these engines.


Completely & utterly agree, I would never consider anything other than the genuine OEM item.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

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The reason the H2 has a different, bigger filter is because it needs to flow more oil and still filter efficiently.

The H2 sprays oil everywhere, the transmission has oil sprayers, even the supercharger gears have oil moving through them. A smaller filter will not flow enough oil to maintain the pressure needed to satisfy the all the sprayers. Also if you put a smaller filter that can't handle the flow requirements it may blow a hole in the filter, or worse insufficiently supply oil . The pressure isn't all that high, but the volume is tremendous.

On top of that, many aftermarket filters are junk, and switch manufactures as often as Craftsman tools switch manufactures. You don't know what you are getting.

Also Kawasaki has a warranty, so their filters are probably built and tested to make sure that meet the requirements. Rant over.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The reason the H2 has a different, bigger filter is because it needs to flow more oil and still filter efficiently.
Yeah, I get that but K&N don't!

so their filters are probably built and tested to make sure that meet the requirements.
Yep, minimum requirements at a price that Kawasaki is willing to pay and truth be told, probably from the same Thailand factory as the aftermarket options.

The OEM filter won't damage your bike (at least you would hope so) but it doesn't mean it's the best filter or any better than an aftermarket filter from a reputable company who could destroy their business if they produced filters that didn't work as well or better than OEM.

Didn't you just change your air filter from an OEM paper filter to a better performing synthetic filter (with less surface area)? What changes did you have to make to your OEM fuel mapping when you did it?

Each to their own. If you think that what Kawasaki produced can't be improved on then run factory tyres, air filter, oil filter, exhaust, ECU etc. I understand that stance but I also think that there are many companies who exist only because they can do better than OEM, not just cheaper.
 

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I wouldn't use anything but the Kawasaki item either.

I can imagine the reply they'd give if a filter failed and ruined the engine - and it was an aftermarket part.

It's probably safer to buy a filter wrench for the 13 ft/lb tightening torque rather than buying non-recommended filters because they have a nut on top.
 

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Yeah, I get that but K&N don't!



Yep, minimum requirements at a price that Kawasaki is willing to pay and truth be told, probably from the same Thailand factory as the aftermarket options.

The OEM filter won't damage your bike (at least you would hope so) but it doesn't mean it's the best filter or any better than an aftermarket filter from a reputable company who could destroy their business if they produced filters that didn't work as well or better than OEM.

Didn't you just change your air filter from an OEM paper filter to a better performing synthetic filter (with less surface area)? What changes did you have to make to your OEM fuel mapping when you did it?

Each to their own. If you think that what Kawasaki produced can't be improved on then run factory tyres, air filter, oil filter, exhaust, ECU etc. I understand that stance but I also think that there are many companies who exist only because they can do better than OEM, not just cheaper.
Oil filters are a different animal. Why? Because the lack of info. If they had a comparison of how much oil they flow at X viscosity and filtering ability compared to a OEM, then you can make a reasonable decision on if it will work. Air filters publish and have been tested to death in comparison to OEM air filters, so we have an good info. Not so with an oil filter, there are no comparisons to the OEM H2 filter to anything anywhere. So how can we say an aftermarket filter is going to work?
So show me one test of the H2 filter and a test of the aftermarket filter that shows it is equal or superior and I will apologize and STFU.:)
 

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I cut open a load of filters for the ZZR/ZX14r bikes for the UK forum last year.

These included K&N, Hiflo filtro, Mann etc.

Compared to the genuine Kawasaki 16097-004 made in Japan and the later 16097-0008 made in Thailand filters, they were all varying levels of cheap crap!

The K&N even had the pressure relief spring out of alignment from new!

Why try and save pennies, when the OEM ones do the exact job they were designed for?
 

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So i went searching for oil filter comparisons after reading this thread, not much more than observations on filter area and seal types out there BUT
one interesting piece here https://youngchoppers.com/8-best-motorcycle-oil-filters-comparison-reviews/
pretty much an Amazon infomercial, But interesting comments at the bottom about K&N , not something i have heard before anyone able to verify the comments ?
 

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What always hangs in the back of my mind is that Fram was banned from racing for filter failures. For sure they have fixed that ....but.....

I didn't know that but times have for sure changed. I have somewhere around 45k miles using fram only. Had my bike dynoed at 30K+ miles in the middle of summer (far from ideal conditions) and it dynoed like new. I just completed the valve clearance inspection. Without looking at the previous measurements that were done about 10k miles ago, the recent inspection was within .0005 (ten thousandths). Seeing that video I can understand the sentiment. That's just pure junk. But what I'm saying is documented with dates, mileage, receipts, pictures, and a motor that does not leak.

Just to add. I don't go out of my way to search for these filters. These are carried at the local parts store right around corner where price and convenience is the only criteria. Perhaps I could up my game, but.......why?
 

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I didn't know that but times have for sure changed. I have somewhere around 45k miles using fram only. Had my bike dynoed at 30K+ miles in the middle of summer (far from ideal conditions) and it dynoed like new. I just completed the valve clearance inspection. Without looking at the previous measurements that were done about 10k miles ago, the recent inspection was within .0005 (ten thousandths). Seeing that video I can understand the sentiment. That's just pure junk. But what I'm saying is documented with dates, mileage, receipts, pictures, and a motor that does not leak.

Just to add. I don't go out of my way to search for these filters. These are carried at the local parts store right around corner where price and convenience is the only criteria. Perhaps I could up my game, but.......why?
This was just the first video that popped up. In a pinch I would use what is available. I'm sure the Fram was a fluke. But what are the odds of him getting one that he would cut apart being a POS?

But the OEM really feels that they get a filter that works properly. This is not a performance issue.

I am not saying that the filters are junk, they may be better. But how do we know?

I don't want a pleat count, I want flow characteristics, a true test of how big of particles the filter passes, against the OEM. Until then it is OEM for me. The reason? Kawasaki tested it.
 

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.....

I don't want a pleat count, I want flow characteristics, a true test of how big of particles the filter passes, against the OEM. Until then it is OEM for me. The reason? Kawasaki tested it.

I'm not going to argue that but would like to add IMO to have it replaced sooner than later. Of all the maintenance things a bike could use I'll do more oil/filter changes than necessary and not once lose sleep over it.
 

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My 2016 zx14r spun 2 rod bearings at 3880kms. First question Kawasaki asked is “what oil and oil filter are being used?” I use nothing but oem. If i didnt, they would have denied the warranty right then snd there.
 

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My 2p worth ......

K&N seem to think that their pattern filter to fit (say) a ZX10R is fine for the H2. If the OEM Kawasaki filter from the ZX10R was good enough for the H2, then why did Kawasaki invest the time, effort and hard yen into developing a specific filter for the H2 ?

It's OEM all the way for me - an oil filter wrench is not expensive and allows the correct torque setting to be used with ease.

ps - google 'K&N filter nut failure' before fitting a K&N filter .............
 

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My 2016 zx14r spun 2 rod bearings at 3880kms. First question Kawasaki asked is “what oil and oil filter are being used?” I use nothing but oem. If i didnt, they would have denied the warranty right then snd there.
I spun the #3 rod bearing on my ZX11 right after I switched to synthetic. Okay maybe it was a fluke...but wait.....
I was the first guy to blow up a Concours 14 and It did it after I switched to synthetic. Both bikes used Kawasaki oil and filters. Hmmmm.
 

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I'm not going to argue that but would like to add IMO to have it replaced sooner than later. Of all the maintenance things a bike could use I'll do more oil/filter changes than necessary and not once lose sleep over it.
I can't disagree. The only worry I would have is, does the aftermarket filter flow enough? They didn't change it from the original design to accommodate the extra flow required by the H2. If they came out with a different filter, then I wouldn't worry.
 

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My 2016 zx14r spun 2 rod bearings at 3880kms. First question Kawasaki asked is “what oil and oil filter are being used?” I use nothing but oem. If i didnt, they would have denied the warranty right then snd there.
I spun the [URL=https://www.ninjah2.org/forum/usertag.php?do=list&action=hash&hash=3]#3 [/URL] rod bearing on my ZX11 right after I switched to synthetic. Okay maybe it was a fluke...but wait.....
I was the first guy to blow up a Concours 14 and It did it after I switched to synthetic. Both bikes used Kawasaki oil and filters. Hmmmm.
Concours has the same motor as the 14R does it not? Which means it has the same oil issue. No oil ports for the #2 and #3 . So its bad enough that they arent getting oil or enough oil. The oil pump cover is thin and flexes causing a drop in pressure.
 

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Concours has the same motor as the 14R does it not? Which means it has the same oil issue. No oil ports for the #2 and #3 . So its bad enough that they arent getting oil or enough oil. The oil pump cover is thin and flexes causing a drop in pressure.
Yes, it is basically the same motor. I replaced the one I blew up with another one that had ABS and I have 85,000 miles on it using Kawasaki's conventional oil. And it runs like new.
 
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