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Please make it simple. I've watched multiple videos and some make it seem so complicated, jeez!
super easy, just remove the upper cowling and there it is, easy to unbolt

 
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super easy, just remove the upper cowling and there it is, easy to unbolt

Terry,
Is it really that easy? From all the other information out there it sounds like it's hard and time consuming. It will be a while before I do mine but by what you wrote and showed it's lots easier than I thought? I want to reflash mine and de restrict, not interested going all the way :)

Look while I have you, thanks for reply on the wing thing. I didn't reply there otherwise my post would go up again and get lost if you know what I mean. I think it's a really interesting topic as aerodynamics are amazing. So with your wings have you ever compared the angle, placement etc to a H2R?
I know you said you posted your review and respect your findings , I was wondering what others think that have done it.
Thanks mate
Jeffro ;)
 

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Terry,
Is it really that easy? From all the other information out there it sounds like it's hard and time consuming. QUOTE]

Yes it easy, I do it (removing the fairings) all the time. Front cowling comes off easy. The hardest part is that black plastic cover just under the nose. BUT doing all this in the garage is easy, doing it at the track or on the roadside when your tuner is trying to make flash changes to your ECU is almost not possible, unless you did what I did and added a pigtail connection to the ECU for easy plugin with laptop (see my post #6 for a pic)
http://www.ninjah2.org/forum/ninja-h2-general-discussion/18698-throttle-mapping.html
As for Wings, no I have never closely compared the R to my bike, but I know ActiveMoto did when making their designs. I’m not the kind of person that would care about those things, I get on the bike and ride her wide open on the track, it either feels good or feels like sh*t and I come back in and make a change. Fix it and move on is my MO
 
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Terry,
Is it really that easy? From all the other information out there it sounds like it's hard and time consuming. QUOTE]

Yes it easy, I do it (removing the fairings) all the time. Front cowling comes off easy. The hardest part is that black plastic cover just under the nose. BUT doing all this in the garage is easy, doing it at the track or on the roadside when your tuner is trying to make flash changes to your ECU is almost not possible, unless you did what I did and added a pigtail connection to the ECU for easy plugin with laptop (see my post #6 for a pic)
http://www.ninjah2.org/forum/ninja-h2-general-discussion/18698-throttle-mapping.html
As for Wings, no I have never closely compared the R to my bike, but I know ActiveMoto did when making their designs. I’m not the kind of person that would care about those things, I get on the bike and ride her wide open on the track, it either feels good or feels like sh*t and I come back in and make a change. Fix it and move on is my MO
Ok cool fair enough, it's good to hear. You know yourself when reading it from the manual or others it seems complicated but now after you explained it doesn't seem so bad. I will be doing it in a garage (fairing removal) when it's time.

As for the wings....yeh I gathered you were that type of person just to get into it. I am like you to a degree but I love the technical side of everything ( as I am sure you have already gathered) I love the practicality of something the technical aspect to it amazes me and I want to know everything possible about it! Maybe sometimes I am a PIA but always loved to ask lots questions!
Thanks again mate and enjoy your Sunday, here it's Monday morning already
Jeffro ;)
 

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I didn't find it was necessary to entirely remove the nose fairing. I put layers of bubble wrap on the front mudguard and slid the fairing forward enough to reveal the ECU, resting it on the bubble-wrap. It saved a lot of work.

Take off the side fairing panels, the inner trim panels, the screen and then there are the four bolts to release the nose fairing, ease it forward and no need to disconnect anything else.

The thing that was a PITA, at least for European bikes, is the use of tamper-proof bolts.
 

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I didn't find it was necessary to entirely remove the nose fairing. I put layers of bubble wrap on the front mudguard and slid the fairing forward enough to reveal the ECU, resting it on the bubble-wrap. It saved a lot of work.
Yep good point. I remove mine all the time, but if you only need to get to the ECU just drop the cowling down onto the front fender (use towel or whatever) and that way you don't have to unplug the 3 different wire connections and unattach the fuse box, all that is a bit of a PITA.
 

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I didn't find it was necessary to entirely remove the nose fairing. I put layers of bubble wrap on the front mudguard and slid the fairing forward enough to reveal the ECU, resting it on the bubble-wrap. It saved a lot of work.

Take off the side fairing panels, the inner trim panels, the screen and then there are the four bolts to release the nose fairing, ease it forward and no need to disconnect anything else.

The thing that was a PITA, at least for European bikes, is the use of tamper-proof bolts.
BobC,
Thanks for the further information. AS for tamper proof bolts, I wonder if mine in Australia has them? Typically we get all the European stuff here, so I am assuming that's the case. Unless someone can chime in that knows otherwise?
Jeffro ;)
 

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BobC,
Thanks for the further information. AS for tamper proof bolts, I wonder if mine in Australia has them? Typically we get all the European stuff here, so I am assuming that's the case. Unless someone can chime in that knows otherwise?
Jeffro ;)
These little beauties!!

I sincerely hope that Australian bikes don't have them. Ours is because of some half-baked european directive. Obviously I replaced them with proper bolts when I reinstalled the ECU. Good luck Jeffro.
 

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Bob is right about this Jeffro, I did mine and they're very annoying but happily they didn't beat meNot too bad to to get to the ECU (lots of masking tape on the paint as discussed before) just be prepared in case you have the tamper proof bolts. I ground slots with dremel and unscrewed them with a flat screwdriver. Kawasaki really took the pi#s as they're hammered in thread-lock too.


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These little beauties!!

I sincerely hope that Australian bikes don't have them. Ours is because of some half-baked european directive. Obviously I replaced them with proper bolts when I reinstalled the ECU. Good luck Jeffro.
WTF?!
mine has 3mm allen bolts

 

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Thanks for that Racer, you're lucky but maybe soon the Trump administration will tighten the security on those insurgent ECU's and you guys will get tamper proof like us Europeans


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