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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So the time has come for me to finally get my tune. Just having a bit of trouble finding a shop I’m comfortable to do the job. Being in Colorado, there are not many options as far as tuning. Of the 2 shops I’ve narrowed it down to, one has tuned only one H2 and has a few months wait time. The other has yet to tune an H2, however they tune many of the state’s turbo bikes.

I purchased the bike from a gentleman out in Indiana and had it shipped here. Indiana is where it was originally flashed and tuned. A mean elevation of 700 feet versus Colorado’s mean elevation of 6,800ft. Bike is going to be mostly ridden at ~5200 feet.

I’m considering data logging and sending logs to a tuner more familiarized with these bikes. But then again I’m worried with the quality of my tune, being that most bikes they tune are local/low elevation.

Anyone with helpful advice, please chime in. I’m at a standstill and itching to get this thing running well.
 

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"I’m at a standstill and itching to get this thing running well"...this is right up Ted's alley.What do you mean 'running well'?What's it doing right now?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
"I’m at a standstill and itching to get this thing running well"...this is right up Ted's alley.What do you mean 'running well'?What's it doing right now?
Right now it’s not running good at all. Sounds like it’s hunting for fuel at idle, dying at stoplights, or if I give it a good rev to about 6500+ it’ll die. I can clean my exhaust to the point I see my reflection and in 10 miles it’ll be pitch black. Terrible fuel mileage. I’m guessing it’s running really rich. Not enough air I can get flowing here (at least at the lower revs) for the amount of fuel it’s pushing through. I have an AFR/boost gauge I’ll be installing this week and I’ll be able to see how the mixture looks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
And I just installed an intercooler this weekend, which is actually gonna lower the pressure in my airbox a couple PSI, so it’ll likely be worse.
 

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Thankfully mine isn't that bad, I have taken mine up over 8000 feet (did that just yesterday)and it runs clean.
The first thing I would look at is the air filter and the air intake.

I feel stupid asking this, but is the little check engine light on?
This sounds like someone put a rag in the air intake for shipping.
 

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I have a couple of mates in the greater Denver area with turbo busa's i can ask who they use , there is at least one member here from that area too , not sure how often he looks in though
Surprised its that bad, the electronics usually cope with altitude change pretty well
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thankfully mine isn't that bad, I have taken mine up over 8000 feet (did that just yesterday)and it runs clean.
The first thing I would look at is the air filter and the air intake.

I feel stupid asking this, but is the little check engine light on?
This sounds like someone put a rag in the air intake for shipping.
No, there's no check engine lights. And I switched out the filter to a Sprint P08, there wasn't anything in there.

I have a couple of mates in the greater Denver area with turbo busa's i can ask who they use , there is at least one member here from that area too , not sure how often he looks in though
Surprised its that bad, the electronics usually cope with altitude change pretty well
Please do reach out, I'd appreciate it. As for the electronics, I would bet it has to do with the ECU already being flashed and set with a tuned map, therefore it's not automatically adjusting for the change in altitude.
 

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I would bet it has to do with the ECU already being flashed and set with a tuned map, therefore it's not automatically adjusting for the change in altitude.
Even a tuned map will work for the most part at any altitude. The ECU looks at the parameters and adjusts to the atmospheric pressure or in our case airbox pressure. It is relative, as it sees the pressures drop (high altitude) it give a lower % of fuel. Unless the flash is totally messed up, super rich even at sea level.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Just realized I can actually use this Woolich software to take my ECU back to an untuned/unflashed state. Will probably do that for the time being until I figure out the tuning situation.
 

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Just realized I can actually use this Woolich software to take my ECU back to an untuned/unflashed state. Will probably do that for the time being until I figure out the tuning situation.
That is great, take that out of the equation.
 

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Champ, have you called Brock or Guhl for opinions ? I am thinking ECU maps are a cluster. It would seem the ECU could sort the altitude change and adjust. Unless someone before you get the parameters very static and didnt let the ECU make its own changes to what it sees ?

NOLA
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
So, before I removed the tune and reverted it back to the stock ECU, I decided to give the bike a run to see how it ran after the intercooler install.

It’s running much better now. Doesn’t sound like it’s hunting for fuel at idle, isn’t shutting off after I rev it. It’s still running quite rich of course, on my autoblips it’s shooting out a flame about 3 feet long. I had to find a nice clear stretch of road to record my boost temps and ensure the intercooler was doing its job, so I had to wind her out a bit. Seems the faster I get it going the better it runs.

I figured out a solution in regards to my tuning situation. He’s estimating I’m down 35-45 hp without tuning for altitude.
 

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ChampC what are your mods? I live at a mile high location and I'm in the process of having an intercooler as well. You stated your tuner thinks it lost 35-40 hp with an intercooler. What was your base
line hp numbers. thanks

As far as stalling is concerned my bike use to do this as well until I removed the charcoal canister.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
@mralbuquerque

Unfortunately haven't got the chance to throw it on a dyno. All I know is the flashed and tuned number it made prior to my ownership.

I did finally get my AFR gauge hooked up lastnight, and bike is running pretty fat under WOT. I was seeing 10.2-10.4 AFR.

As of now I just have your basic mods with the exception of the intercooler: Sprint P08, Woolich Flash, Vandemon Exhaust. Still stock gearing although I expect that to change once it is tuned for altitude.

Also, I did remove my charcoal canister prior to installing my intercooler. That may be the reason I'm no longer having the stalling issues either.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
A few minor changes seemed to help slightly with the fueling, still a bit rich up top. But better.

Throwing it on the dyno tomorrow to see what she's putting down before I send off the datalogs.

Tuner estimates from fueling alone, I'm down about 20-25 horses.

If high speeds on public roads is not your cup of tea, vids not for you. These shops here won't let me pay for a remote tune so the data's gotta be logged some type of way :/

https://youtu.be/tLMxY-1xjKA
 

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The ECU adjusts the fuel in conjunction with the barometric pressure sensor. So I assume that this sensor is the reference for all other pressure indicators and mapping.
 
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