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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Technical question for anyone at Kawasaki Japan.

On the H2R. Both meter units have the same part number but they operate very differently. Is this controlled by the ECU or the programming inside the meter unit itself?

Let me preface this by saying I'm not re-engineering anything and I'll do this in such a way it will be indistinguishable from a factory installation - The left control switch obviously still contains the wiring for the turn signal, hazard and horn control (I looked but did not test); if I were to connect the G, GY, Y/R, O and BR/BK from the switch back to the 13, 14, 29, 30 and 31 pins on the Meter Unit respectively - then the 8-11 pins on the back of the Meter Unit to a set of factory turn signals with the appropriate fuses and grounds - could I conceivably restore proper turn signal functionality without causing harm to the Meter Unit?

My main concern is that the functionality still safely exists internally without reprogramming or danger to the other functions. If the light switch hadn't been converted to a lap timer I'd just try it, but that's enough of a change to make me worry. I'd hate to make a $900 mistake over factory blinkers.

I already have a 100% legal license plate, DOT tires and permission to ride it anywhere I like. You're in no way enabling or endangering me - at this point you'd only be helping keep me safe...and of course, sell me some really expensive factory spares. :)

I don't need any elaboration if you're worried about the ramifications of helping me, just a 'hai' if it'll work and a 'dame' if it won't.

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
What street tires are you using? What size?
Pirelli Supercorsa SC V2 (SC1 in front SC2 in the rear). 120/200 (the rear is mathematically a 195 so it's kinda splitting the difference). I'm not a Bridgestone fan and they certainly didn't win me over with all the flipping weights the factory had to hammer on to my wheel to get that Battlax to balance. I've never had to put weights on a Pirelli, much less 3 of them!
 

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Does that H2R meter display(the one around the tach)have a lamp there for a signal icon?Or anywhere on that display (above or to the sides of it?)

"without causing harm to the Meter Unit?"...seems that would be the indication of whether a 'turn signal' is doable.I mean...the display where an H2 would be illuminating the display icons?That's a good question.How about Googling this and seeing what some others have done?

Here's ONE place...maybe check into it?'The Retrofit Source'.

The guy who said he did this to his H2R said the headlamps doubled as the front turn signals.He mounted something like these to the sides and below the duct openings.IDK how he fitted em on there...They looked very close to the R1 setup...As for the rear signals...I guess you'd need n H2 bracket...or a tail tidy deal...then install the H2 rear signals into that and the wiring...but I have no idea what circuit you could use to have a signal switch circuit going?You say the handlebar switch housing has a signal 'option' in there.So it's conceivably possible.That guy that did this was here several months ago...haven't seen any posts from him since.????
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
****Update*****

The controls ARE functioning! Test light confirms positive contact on the correct terminals for all 'unused' and unmarked turn/hazard/horn functions. (If tech bores you, this means that stuff in the stalk that's not supposed to be connected on the H2R actually IS). Even if the Meter Unit won't do anything with the input, they could be painlessly wired to any after market setup that uses a relay and momentary contact for activation.

Kawasaki totally meant for this bike to be used on the street. Every step forward that's been paved this perfectly is a huge hand up. Now, to hook the battery up and test the display....

Even if you won't talk to me, thank you Satoaki Ichi. You're the man.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Haha! Never mind Kawasaki. Got it! Just had to dig a little deeper into the book.

Thanks for not helping. It was much more rewarding finding the way to find the answers on my own. Just like church again...

Connect battery + to 17-22, 26 and - to terminal 5, then ground pins 13 and/or 30. Bob's your uncle.

If anyone is interested, in their defense Kawasaki kinda DID help me with my original question...two years ago when they wrote the service manual for the H2. It was just very hard to find. Now off to make 8 extra test leads...
 

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I had a suspicion you would find this to be the case. It's less expensive and more error-proof to make all the instrument cluster hardware the same. There will likely be either a jumper or a firmware configuration that tells the cluster to operate as an H2R cluster or an H2 cluster. (H2 cluster limited to displaying 299 km/h, H2 doesn't have the "max speed record" function, etc)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
I had a suspicion you would find this to be the case. It's less expensive and more error-proof to make all the instrument cluster hardware the same. There will likely be either a jumper or a firmware configuration that tells the cluster to operate as an H2R cluster or an H2 cluster. (H2 cluster limited to displaying 299 km/h, H2 doesn't have the "max speed record" function, etc)
I haven't found a jumper wire yet. Only one pin on the back of the Meter Unit is used differently and that's the 'pass' function was switched to a lap timer. The switch on the stalk is the same (mostly, it doesn't lock in the out position but it still registers momentary contact), the pin out is the same and the wire color is the same. Everything else is either the same or blank. The programming for the meter unit has to be in the ECU and I'm okay with that.

I am excited that no matter what happens from here on, I can still use the unmodified original R control for horns/turns/hazards and make the green turn signal arrows/high beam indicator on the cluster work. That was all I was really concerned with. I can also re-appropriate one of the buttons on the stalk to manually activate the fans as well (do I lose the horn or the hazards? You'll never be able to hear the horn anyway, right?). The bad news; the whole front of the bike has to come apart to undo the 4 lousy bolts holding the Meter Unit in place. Boooo.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Thank you again Kawasaki for leaving so many of the pieces in place. They even left fuses in the blocks with the power supply still attached for the missing street parts. Seriously.

Not saying any of this is easy or for the timid, but, if you can read a wiring schematic and use a meter…they did half the work for you. God I love Kawasaki's engineers.

If this is supposed to be a secret or it's going to get somebody in trouble at Kawi, PM me and I'll stop posting this stuff.

….next up, turn signals, a horn, fans and headlights. (This next bit if going to take a few. Waiting on OE parts…)
 

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The simplest explanation (Occam's razor?) is that they designed a single version of most of the parts, therefore reusing the H2R components while converting it for street use should be pretty straightforward.

It looks like they did more than half the work, but the reality is probably that they didn't do ANY work at all to make the H2R track only...

Frio
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
You know how the service manual says to check all the fasteners? You guys should do it. I can't believe how many bolts were just in finger tight (more or less). Temperature fluctuations, altitude changes, jostling etc really does effect things more than I thought. This is from the factory, untouched by me; there were two in the left fairing and one on the nose that would've walked off sooner rather than later. My coolant reservoir was a quart below the min mark also.

Kinda glad I did this on general principal. It's interesting and I get to do all those recommended pre-flight checks nobody ever does.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
The simplest explanation (Occam's razor?) is that they designed a single version of most of the parts, therefore reusing the H2R components while converting it for street use should be pretty straightforward.

It looks like they did more than half the work, but the reality is probably that they didn't do ANY work at all to make the H2R track only...

Frio
I thought that initially but not anymore. They ran yards of isolated positive wire from the battery to the nose that dead end in a largely unused fuse panel, complete with fuses they had no reason to install. Thanks? Saves me from doing it, but why did they?

Everything is marked differently from the H2 so there was some thought and planning involved.

I'd post more pics but the site only allows me 10 at a time, but they left 10 amps of switched ignition power, complete with a fuse, only connected on the supply side of the blade. That's enough factory supplied, fused, switched power to run all the LED lights and then some. Thanks Kawasaki! What's next? Breakfast in bed?

I have a very early number H2R (like day two or three of production), if anyone with a later build does this, I wonder if it's the same? Maybe it's an early run fluke?
 

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That's really interesting. Until you mentioned everything was marked differently for the H2R, I would have said that it could be an assembly line thing. I mean correct me if I'm wrong, but Kawasaki could build the electric wiring, frame, chassis, and some bodywork, and only when they go to slot in an engine, exhaust, and the remaining bodywork would they really determine it to be an H2 or H2R. However, if the wiring is marked completely differently from the H2 then that theory goes out the window.

Loving your progress on this. I always enjoy people trying to make something work in a way it was never intended.
 

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What you're seeing is totally common on automotive side. 1 wiring harness from base model all the way to luxury model of same body type. Makes adding options easy and only 1 part for a supplier to make. as far as markings ...not sure what the markings you refer to look like. could they be added at time of determining its an H2 or an R while going down the line? That would be my guess.
 

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I dont how you decided this problem but i used external small 1A relays. Of course you can use transistors but i havent got plates for it. Hi beam use 1.5V signal. So i installed 12v->1.5v trans. Well i right now i have h2r dash mode and fully workable headlight horn etc.
 

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