Does anyone have access to it or know where I could find it? Love to give it a read and I can't seem to find it.
Thanks! But lets consider it a gift for everyone....Come one guys, a gift for Cliff Secord
Cliff, I'd provided an H2 Service Manual to the membership for a while and I would have made an R Service Manual available as well. However, I never found a digital copy. I purchased my R Service Manual from my dealer. $90. USD.Anyway, when I say I'm going to read it, I mean I'm really going to read it.
I appreciate your previous work. I use the parts diagrams quite a lot. Thank you for making those accessible.Cliff, I'd provided an H2 Service Manual to the membership for a while and I would have made an R Service Manual available as well. However, I never found a digital copy. I purchased my R Service Manual from my dealer. $90. USD.
I'm still keeping my eye open for the opportunity to snag a digital R manual. I've two H2 manuals and two R manuals. Two for my home shop and the other two are at my buddie's shop. I hear you on the ease of using the digital version. Print out exactly what you need without worrying about destroying the page. It's so nice for old eyes to also display the pages on a 40" monitor!I appreciate your previous work. I use the parts diagrams quite a lot. Thank you for making those accessible.
That's too bad on the R manual. I was afraid that was the case since it isn't included on the owners USB either. Would've made searches easier.
Oh well, looks like I'm probably reading it the old fashioned way...with eye strain and numb carpel tunnel fingers.
I see what you're saying and I think that the belly pan would be fine if, like you were saying, it were designed to channel air properly and you kept moving. Under those circumstances it could probably even improve cooling. BUT the second you stopped at a light for a minute or two all that heat gets trapped then rises and soaks into the pan, block, intake runner, supercharger, oil cooler, the transmission etc. Between the catalyst and that glowing red down pipe I'd be worried about all that trapped heat for street use. The H2 is already on the razors edge using forced induction and a non-cooled intake, I'd be super nervous about bottling any more heat into that area.Hi Cliff,
Thanks for the observations about the heat dissipation and the effect of a bellypan. One of the bad jobs about amateur aircraft building is the engine cowling and the size of the air intake and the baffles that you put very close to the air cooled engine to keep the airflow ram aired into cooling distance of the engine. it takes a lot of research to come up with the optimum compromise between drag, airflow and cooling efficiency, especially for speed/drag ratios - Ram air ports are like a drag parachute. Smaller the better from a drag perspective and research shows smaller can be better for airflow too . On the H2 it sounds like the engine is cooled by oil, oil by water and water by air flow. On an old fashioned plane engine you manually optimise the mixture for cruise by having temperature sensors in the exhaust. Getting that wrong will definitely shorten the life of the engine. So I'd guess that if a bellypan was aerodynamically designed to ram air correctly, i.e with engine baffles, it would be OK, even better than open for drag and temps. Except of course when stationary! Planes never stay stationary too long or they will overheat. Plus the old fashioned Lycoming and Continental Aircraft engines are very over-engineered and under powered for longevity and reliability. Plus you need Oil pressure, Oil temp, exhaust temp, cylinder head temp, mixture control, altitude, density altitude, barometric pressure, outside air temps, and coolant temp gauges. Air temp affects mixture and HP.
Baffle Installation for Air Cooled Engines
We need to understand all the stuff in docs like this when we are considering modding a bike that runs at these temps.
http://www.lycoming.com/Portals/0/t...-25-1994)/Fuel Mixture Leaning Procedures.pdf