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I have a source for H2r cams for my H2, has anyone already done this upgrade?

Has anyone tried the 'Jeremy Weber' cams upgrade? (I don't know who he is other than a post on Facebook of +20rwhp with his cams)
 

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He has two options. Drop in cams that add about 20whp without having to do any re-degreeing, or a custom spec cam they used on their standing mile bike.
 

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He has two options. Drop in cams that add about 20whp without having to do any re-degreeing, or a custom spec cam they used on their standing mile bike.
Can’t u also just buy h2r cams from kawai parts warehouse
Also @Boosted10R dude ur h2 is a beast saw u on outspokentiger vids
What exactly u did other then stretch the bike.
Sc gears
IC
Filter
Woolich or ghul flash (why one over other)
Tune at 320rwhp
Before stretch too much wheelie?
 

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Can’t u also just buy h2r cams from kawai parts warehouse
Also @Boosted10R dude ur h2 is a beast saw u on outspokentiger vids
What exactly u did other then stretch the bike.
Sc gears
IC
Filter
Woolich or ghul flash (why one over other)
Tune at 320rwhp
Before stretch too much wheelie?
Thanks. Some guys have access to H2R cams, but they wont make as much as the aftermarket counterparts. The H2R cams are hard to get though because the dealer requires an H2R vin number in order to place the order. There is a couple people that just happen to know the right people I guess.

The big gain in power on my bike was from the classic motorcycle performance head and cam package. That's about 40-50whp all said and done. Stock H2 head and cams are very restrictive. Im also using stage 3 gears since I got the cams. The stage 3 gears lose power up top if you dont have the head work.

I have the Guhl flash. Always have, and he has an access cable now which gives you full ECU access. It's easy for me to use.
 
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I do drag racing and street riding, that's why I have the arm. However even if I didn't do drag racing I would have one. At this power level the bike is so responsive, I will still wheelie on the road lol. Stock wheel base you will spend so much time fighting the wheelie you cant even full utilize the response of the setup.
 

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Saw a post the other day that they are no longer selling to the public.
You are correct, however it never hurts to give them a call.
 

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Ya I can't find it. Basically stage 3 gears will make more mid, but up around 13k power starts to fall off. The only plus side to that is you don't have to rev as high to get the power you want. Some tuners will just leave the rev limiter at 13.5k, since there is no need for 14k rpm
 

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@Boosted10R
Spoke to 650ib other day and he said this bike isn’t built for 20mileWOt like Isle of Man style or basically what OAB did (onearmbandit)
That’s purpose of my bikes and is there a way to make h2 able to do that
Also 650ib said u blew ur motor
What happened and why
And what did u do to prevent it in future.

Oh also talked to kawai rep at show and he said stock u can do any run a NA does and don’t worry about ur engine blowing. He said he never encountered stock ecu engine blowing.
He said he hears it from flashed ecu guys
Bad timing or afr tables or too aggressive tune

What’s ur thoughts
 

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@Boosted10R
Spoke to 650ib other day and he said this bike isn’t built for 20mileWOt like Isle of Man style or basically what OAB did (onearmbandit)
That’s purpose of my bikes and is there a way to make h2 able to do that
Also 650ib said u blew ur motor
What happened and why
And what did u do to prevent it in future.

Oh also talked to kawai rep at show and he said stock u can do any run a NA does and don’t worry about ur engine blowing. He said he never encountered stock ecu engine blowing.
He said he hears it from flashed ecu guys
Bad timing or afr tables or too aggressive tune

What’s ur thoughts
I told you that already a few times in your other post lol. This bike isn't built for running at near top speed for that long of time. Even bone stock it wont last. It simply produces too much heat. Please just refrain from even attempting it, or you're going to end up with an expensive fix.

My failure was an oiling issue from aftermarket oil pickup. I increased the size and bumped up oil pressure.
 

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@Boosted10R
Spoke to 650ib other day and he said this bike isn’t built for 20mileWOt like Isle of Man style or basically what OAB did (onearmbandit)
That’s purpose of my bikes and is there a way to make h2 able to do that
Also 650ib said u blew ur motor
What happened and why
And what did u do to prevent it in future.

Oh also talked to kawai rep at show and he said stock u can do any run a NA does and don’t worry about ur engine blowing. He said he never encountered stock ecu engine blowing.
He said he hears it from flashed ecu guys
Bad timing or afr tables or too aggressive tune

What’s ur thoughts
I told you that already a few times in your other post lol. This bike isn't built for running at near top speed for that long of time. Even bone stock it wont last. It simply produces too much heat. Please just refrain from even attempting it, or you're going to end up with an expensive fix.

My failure was an oiling issue from aftermarket oil pickup. I increased the size and bumped up oil pressure.
So near top speed or high rpms is the cause of failure.
How about u stretch gears making them
Taller -1 or-2 rear and add more hp to bike
Either:
Flash tune air filter exhaust
Or
Flash tune air filter exhaust plus SC

With whichever yields safer results
Run the bike up around 10k-11krpm and hold it there for 5-10miles with gearing it should do 190 at least.
Would that be a solution?
Tune for high power high speed and run it at 70-80% it’s capacity
 

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What would yield a safer result, is you building an N/A bike for that type of racing lmao! You can try longer gearing, but it's still going to get hot. Especially if you go out on a night 80-100F with lots of humidity. Heat soaked to all ****.
 

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@Boosted10R
Spoke to 650ib other day and he said this bike isn’t built for 20mileWOt like Isle of Man style or basically what OAB did (onearmbandit)
That’s purpose of my bikes and is there a way to make h2 able to do that
Also 650ib said u blew ur motor
What happened and why
And what did u do to prevent it in future.

Oh also talked to kawai rep at show and he said stock u can do any run a NA does and don’t worry about ur engine blowing. He said he never encountered stock ecu engine blowing.
He said he hears it from flashed ecu guys
Bad timing or afr tables or too aggressive tune

What’s ur thoughts
I told you that already a few times in your other post lol. This bike isn't built for running at near top speed for that long of time. Even bone stock it wont last. It simply produces too much heat. Please just refrain from even attempting it, or you're going to end up with an expensive fix.

My failure was an oiling issue from aftermarket oil pickup. I increased the size and bumped up oil pressure.
So near top speed or high rpms is the cause of failure.
How about u stretch gears making them
Taller -1 or-2 rear and add more hp to bike
Either:
Flash tune air filter exhaust
Or
Flash tune air filter exhaust plus SC

With whichever yields safer results
Run the bike up around 10k-11krpm and hold it there for 5-10miles with gearing it should do 190 at least.
Would that be a solution?
Tune for high power high speed and run it at 70-80% it’s capacity
Here is what you need!
 

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^That isnt enough for what he wants to do with that bike. It definitely works great, but still not a big enough system to help the bike stay cool for 10-20 miles of top speed
 

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^That isnt enough for what he wants to do with that bike. It definitely works great, but still not a big enough system to help the bike stay cool for 10-20 miles of top speed
I live in Utah, and on the way to the Salt Falts we have a flat straight section of interstate 80 that is almost 30 miles long, I cannot imagine trying to hold open any motorcycle for that long of a distance! First off your tires wouldn’t hold up to that heat, and second your engine heat would be very hard to manage.
 

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@Boosted10R by wide open throttle I mean not banging off redline the whole 10-20 miles straight but a 150-170 turns 190+ for a couple sec to a min tops then back st 150-170 turns.
So normally Zx10 is at 170-180F doing that run then when I come to a stop it jumps to 210f. But we always cool down like 5-10 min cruise to cool off bikes
And tires hold 😉
They get nice n sticky for the sweepers n turns
 
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