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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Went for a 80km ride though some tight corners though a hillside pass. Had the backbone to move the traction control from 9 to 5.
Cant wait to get up further in the rev range as per manual although I do push it to the recommended limit. Another 600km and I will enjoy looking for prey to devour.
 

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They run all these bikes at the factory before they ship...on a dyno...all the way up through the rev range to make sure they're putting out the correct power and torque.Don't know how many runs they make...but probably 3.So the 'initial' ring seating and such are already well on their way to being right.I'd open her up...strong pull(s) up to 13K.Then back off and ride up and down the 2500(or less) to 8K range...hitting 9 and 10K several times during the ride.Stay there a half minute or so(maybe a bit less),then switch rpms again,doing this all through the ride.I would even let her hit the limiter a few times.But don't stay there.Your engine at this point needs to be opened up.You should also find a nice decently long downhill.Open her up.then cut the throttle and let her powerdown on her own.Repeat a few times at least.No braking...engine braking only.IMO.All my Kawis run most excellent doing it like this...NEVER have had a problem with any of em mechanically.

TC1 is optional.Leave it on if ya feel safer with it.
 

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I'd also say keep an eye on your chain adjustment throughout this period.It's really important so you don't get uneven stretch.Ask me how I know;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
In the past I have purchased quite a few new Kawasaki's all over 1000cc's. I have done what you suggested over the last few days except the top rev range was around 7k.
Whats the correct procedure for adjusting the chain? The manual says done by dealer, yeh right, never had a dealer ever do any of my bikes. I have always done my own shims etc but not under the warranty period.
 

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Get bike rear wheel off the ground.*Note the space distance between swingarm face and sprocket carrier.Loosen the two large pinch hex bolts on the rear of the swingarm.Leave a small amount of friction.Rotate wheel and find the tightest spot halfway between front and rear sprocket on the lower run of the chain.Take factory HOOKWRENCH(under the seat) and rotate silver large collar(adjuster)located on the hub between swingarm face and sprocket carrier.Rotate that I believe clockwise(away from you).Could be the other way depending.Adjust slack.Should be 1/2 " above static chain sitting.and 1/2" below...at the tightest spot you determined.
*Note space distance to make sure it's the same as when you started.Tighten bolts back and forth progressively.Do a final torque as per manual.Torque rightmost bolt,then left,then right again.Roll wheel and verify it's running smoothly and no binding.That should be it.
I don't know why they say have a dealer do this...except maybe the axle could move left a small amount when loose and get retightened that way.Just make sure it's spaced at the original spacing.Hope this helps.No way was I gonna take mine to a dealer for a chain adjustment!;)

It's been a while since I looked,but I think the flashdrive you got with your bike has the service manual on it.If not,you should download one off the net.It has these procedures in it.
You DID get the extra package with yours,yes?The Beasly's paint care stuff and factory 'history' booklet?The keychain(etched with your vin number and build number) and flashdrive?
 

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Apparently the concentric hub can move left in the swingarm, which can lead to damage. So they say to take it to the dealer.

When I picked my bike up, the dealer didn't give me the tool. I had to argue to get it back. Supposedly it was under Kawasaki instructions...
 

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I'd suggest gettin her up to the top revs several times now.Smooth progressive but firm throttle input.At least a few times and hold it there for SEVERAL seconds.Then back on down.If you watch Brock's video of him breaking in the H2 on the dyno..that's the way to try to emulate imo.I've been doing my Kawis like that for years,though I didn't realize it was really similar to his method.He's got that drum to slow the engine down.I used a long downhill for that with mine.Did that around 3 times.Loading and unloading.All the way through virtually every rev range.From 13.5K to 1500.My engine runs really smooth and strong.
 

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"concentric hub can move left in the swingarm"..yes,you're right.The service manual addresses that.Glad ya explained that.
 

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"the dealer didn't give me the tool".. that aint cool.It's included with the bike.Sitting under the tool kit.Surprised he even went there.It's YOUR tool.

"Kawasaki 'instructions'..."..now THAT's BS.They aint gonna sell a bike ,include the critical tool for it,then tell the dealer to 'take and hide it so the buyer has to come for service'...no way.They wouldn't be allowing customers to buy a service manual if that was the case.

How about you...you get yer paint care kit and all that stuff?Nice embroidered semi dress shirt?
 

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"the dealer didn't give me the tool".. that aint cool.It's included with the bike.Sitting under the tool kit.Surprised he even went there.It's YOUR tool.

"Kawasaki 'instructions'..."..now THAT's BS.They aint gonna sell a bike ,include the critical tool for it,then tell the dealer to 'take and hide it so the buyer has to come for service'...no way.They wouldn't be allowing customers to buy a service manual if that was the case.

How about you...you get yer paint care kit and all that stuff?Nice embroidered semi dress shirt?
Yeah, really what are you supposed to do if you are out on the road and need to adjust your chain?

Also reading this, I got nothing, no polish, no flash drive, no shirt. This sucks.
 

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Ouch.Sorry to hear that.IDK IF they're still doing that.I would hope so.I'd call Kawasaki and ask. Get the answer straight from them.Seriously.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Got a manual in a nice bag, no flash drive or care kit. Also a promo book of Kawasaki's history and the H2. I work away from home but when I get there I will look for the spanner. Under the tool kit? I have to have it as the dealer at home has never sold one. There is a 2015 in town with 12k on it, I know the guy so I will ask about the tool.
An interesting sound opposite the way a turbo waste gate functions is in the lower gears at medium revs but not under power the excess air is dumped from the supercharger whereas turbo's don't make air unless under load. Sounds quite agressive de-acelerating to a stop light.
Did the exaleration up what's called 3 mile hill as has to come down mostly with the throttle closed, found it hard on the wrists as 3 miles is a long time.
What a strange effect the bike has on the rider, I have become a little more agressive in my riding and maybe I will start to get past 35° when the outer edge of the tyres get more scuffed.
BTW all the information on the display is for reflection later as the senses need my full attention, even the speedo gets ignored. The handling & braking is exelent unless it's in your nature to critisiz.

I am 5'6 & 79kg, about 110kmh the riding position feels good but probably a taller guy would feel more comfortable at a lower speed due to the are flow.
Thanks for the feedback guys, I like this site
 

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Glad you're happy with your new bike.I think your dealer may have received the Care kit,and probably set it aside forgetting to give it to ya.Mine did that.It wasn't intentional.I'd call Kawasaki and ask if the new bike comes with the care kit.I can't see why it wouldn't...except possibly the paint isn't the original Mirror Coated Black.That could be it.

Remove seat...remove tool kit.That wrench should be right there.ALSO,on the rear seat pad,on the inside surface there's an allen wrench there for removing the seat bolts(screws).You'll see it when ya take that off.It's black,so it's kinda camoflaged in there.
 

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"The handling & braking is exelent unless it's in your nature to critisiz"...I hear ya.I feel it's very good.Can't go wrong with Brembos.And I think it handles very well for it's size.It's odd for sure.I set in next to my 14R...they virtually match sizewise.But sitting and riding the H2,it feels and looks smaller.I replaced the stock midpipe and canister and muffler.That dropped her around 30 something lbs.So she's less than 500 now.With full tank.That helped a bit with fuel consumption and cornering.Might want to consider that up the road. Have fun!

She's a great bike.I love mine.Best bike I've ever had.
 

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One other reason why Kawasaki might be nervous about owners doing their own chain adjustment is that tightening the two bolts which clamp the eccentric adjuster has to be done properly, in sequence and to the correct torque of 24 ft-lbs. A little bit like the axle bolts on a lower fork leg. As you tighten one the other slackens off, so it needs care to get right. Too little and the adjuster is still loose and too much or uneven tightening can fracture the casting. Probably why this is in the service manual rather than owner's handbook. Also, does every owner possess a paddock stand and a torque wrench? Not in my experience.
 

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Speaking of torque. I am a Snap-on fanatic, especially when it comes to torque wrenches. I have Snap-on click types and electronic.
And I hate to say this (I'm so ashamed), Harbor Freights very inexpensive torque wrenches test out very well, better than Craftsman and a few others. And when they go on sale they are really a good deal.
If anyone here doesn't have a torque wrench....go get the Harbor Freight wrench.
If you make your living bending wrenches (which I did for over a decade) go buy a Snap-on (I had to say it, I feel better).
 

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Thanks Bob for clarifying that torque sequence. I should have said the distance between the ring adjuster and swingarm face.Shouldn't be any real space between those two.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Yep found the tool.
Yesterday took the H2C for it's first service. Senior mechanic asked if it was ok for a photo to be taken for hos Facebook page, no problem with that. He said he had watched all the video's before it came in. Here's something interesting, when I took it in he said he would take it around the block to warm it up but when I picked the bike up I asked how it felt. He said he has a bad wrist ect and was a bit scared to ride it so they just idled until the fans came on.
Today I took my ZZR1100 C3 for a ride today. What a pleasure, I could be distracted for a moment to see the country side, acceleration intense but nothing like the H2 with that vicious mean streak and want's to remind you who's boss for every millisecond of terror.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Today I learnt that the bike likes to be pulled down in fast corners. Other riders who I didn't know had the good sense to pull over to the slow lane on a sweeping corner. I had to take the outside lane fast power on and moving off the seat to pull her down actually felt better than trying to hunch down. Didn't use more than 2/3 in-case the fun police were around. Anyway, good 60km ride, abet alone :(
 
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