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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all.


Who has played with the geometry of their bikes?


I have made a set of plates, where the hole to mount the rear shock is 5mm lower than standard. The swingarm moved 10mm down at axle level.


Took the bike for a short ride today and it is definitely better. My next step is to raise the forks 5mm.


I have added spacers to virtually all the sportsbikes I've ridden. My 06/07 ZX10R had a 10mm spacer and my '11 Zx10R and K7 GSXR600 also ran a spacer, though I can't remember the thicknesses.


They just held a line better and turned better. Something the H2 doesn't quite do as standard...
 

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Hi all.


Who has played with the geometry of their bikes?


I have made a set of plates, where the hole to mount the rear shock is 5mm lower than standard. The swingarm moved 10mm down at axle level.


Took the bike for a short ride today and it is definitely better. My next step is to raise the forks 5mm.


I have added spacers to virtually all the sportsbikes I've ridden. My 06/07 ZX10R had a 10mm spacer and my '11 Zx10R and K7 GSXR600 also ran a spacer, though I can't remember the thicknesses.


They just held a line better and turned better. Something the H2 doesn't quite do as standard...
I raised the rear shock in my 2011 ZX10R and it made a diff for sure. On my H2 I raised the front fork about 6 MM and didn't notice much. Do you have any pics of what you did in the rear? My only complaint with the H2 is the left to right transitions are not very quick and I'm always looking to make it a little better..... I've shaved a ton of weight off her and she's now 445 lbs dry....
 
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"raised the front fork about 6 MM"...you mean..'lowered the front',yes?Probably just a different way of saying the same thing?
 

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"raised the front fork about 6 MM"...you mean..'lowered the front',yes?Probably just a different way of saying the same thing?

Yes sir.... raised the fork tubes in the triple clamps 6mm :D
 
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I knew that's what ya meant.I know it's like SOO obvious.How's yer rocket doing?



She's doing good man.... the winters all ways cost me a ton of cash! I hate being in the house so I have packages coming in from every bike or speed shop in and out of the country! lol It keeps me busy and somewhat out of trouble. I've added the BST wheels, Pirelli Super Corsa V2, Carbon Moto rear hugger and side skirts under the fuel tank. I have the intake tube coming along with the intake left and right grates, and the boot protectors. I’m considering going with the ceramic from rotors as the last mod for the winter….But I’m not sold on them yet.
The Super Duke is all set and has been completely gone through. I’ve shed about 45 pounds and added every intake and engine bolt on they make and lastly just sent out the front and rear suspension for complete re valve in the rear and cartridges up from and added a Scotts steering stabilizer up front. I have to tell you that bike is a freaking blast to ride! And now with these mods she’s incredible! I need spring to come soon or I’ll be broke! LOL >:D
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
This is essentially the idea for the rear mount... See the attached pic. The green circle is where the new hole goes.


Based on a mate and me fiddling, it seems the ratio is about 2:1. For approximately 5mm change in mount hole location, the wheel moved about 10mm down.
Also worth noting. The original plates are steel, 4.5mm approximately. I am currently using 4.5mm aluminium plates but will be doing them in steel, for peace of mind.
 

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Hey that looks good. Please let us know what you think after you ride her for a while...
 

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I have Brock's window links and will drop the yokes down the fork legs this season to get the c of g lower for LSR.
 

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I have Brock's window links and will drop the yokes down the fork legs this season to get the c of g lower for LSR.
Bob what did you wind up doing for the rear chain guard? I know they are supposed to be steel or aluminum. I'm planning on going to the Loring event in September and need to look at that for sure.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I have Brock's window links and will drop the yokes down the fork legs this season to get the c of g lower for LSR.

Yip, I guess the links would be better, since they are a quick change item... Going touring, set them stable. Going twisties, put it on its nose...
 

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Bob what did you wind up doing for the rear chain guard? I know they are supposed to be steel or aluminum. I'm planning on going to the Loring event in September and need to look at that for sure.....
Our Straightliners club seems happy to pass the bikes through scrutineering with the standard plastic item.

It might be worth asking the organisers of the Loring event to find out if they require a metal chain guard, or maybe someone who's run there will know.

Edinir has run at Wilmington, possibly Loring too and Brock will probably have an idea of what the rules are.
 

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Our Straightliners club seems happy to pass the bikes through scrutineering with the standard plastic item.

It might be worth asking the organisers of the Loring event to find out if they require a metal chain guard, or maybe someone who's run there will know.

Edinir has run at Wilmington, possibly Loring too and Brock will probably have an idea of what the rules are.
Yeah I've run there a few times and in their rule book it says steel or aluminum chain guard....:crying:
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Since the previous post, I raised the forks 5mm in the yolks. I went out today and what a difference compared to standard! The combination of a 5mm change out back and the 5mm in the forks have transformed the bikes ability to hold a line, change direction, everything. It is more stable too.


Previously my corner speeds were nowhere near what I'd seen on my ZX10R but today I was more comfortable at as high or higher speeds than I'd seen on the 10.
 

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I have Brock's window links and will drop the yokes down the fork legs this season to get the c of g lower for LSR.
Bob so the links will allow you to both raise and lower the rear? Any idea of by how much?
 

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Bob so the links will allow you to both raise and lower the rear? Any idea of by how much?
I haven't taken the links to their extremes of adjustment so I can't answer that. I had them on my 14R too and lowering it by a couple of inches was certainly possible but if I remember correctly even on their shortest setting the window links were a little longer than the standard items which means setting the bike higher wasn't an option, although I only wished to lower the bike so no problem. I haven't fitted the H2 links yet.

I could measure the links but we'd need to know how link length translates to suspension height. (longer link = lower suspension) Maybe someone at Brock's Performance could tell you if you email them.
 

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I’m revisiting trying to get my H2 to transition better. I’m thinking of raising the back end up as I already raised the fork tubes and even know it did make it a bit better it still needs more help. I was almost thinking of adding a rear Öhlins with the adjustable pre load knob to help. What do you guys think?
 

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Hey Somefun!I lowered the front by 1/2 inch,got those brock's window links and lowered the rear by 1/4 inch.It turns in pretty nicely.Now the stand's ALMOST too long lol.Gotta be cautious when I park her.No surface angles.
 
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