^^ yeah the sensor never changes direction it's the shifter that does that. I confuse myself sometimes..My bike doesn't have qs so I have little experience with it personally but I hear a lot of guys yapping about it for sure. I know with my 10r a lot of folks splice a linkage part from a gen 3 10r to make it work. It's not the only way but seems cheep and easy.
GP Shift or Reverse is a no-no
Well unfortunately or those of us who like GP shift (1 up,5 down) on our H2's we won't be able to do this.
Reversing or turning upside down the linkage on the gearbox spline won't work because of a lack of room.
Also the quickshifter won't allow this to work.
Now I have to swap my Gen3 back to 1 down 5 up so I can re-learn. Bu33er
Reversing or turning upside down the linkage on the gearbox spline won't work because of a lack of room.
Also the quickshifter won't allow this to work.
Now I have to swap my Gen3 back to 1 down 5 up so I can re-learn. Bu33er
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LOL...this thread and comments certainly got some fired up about GP shifting
Guys,you that love GP shifting...GREAT!This thread isn't about liking or not liking.My comment only meant...a general statement about the shift FEEL...not the pattern.Honestly...I changed the shifting on my 14R to GP.I have to say,for me,it wasn't as smooth as the stock shift pattern.But that's just me.Someone else will get a different feel with their bike(s).It's all good.
My main issue with a gp pattern on my 14 was finding N reliably.That's mostly why I went back to factory.Both patterns work well.I'm just more comfortable shifting factory pattern...that's all.
Guys,you that love GP shifting...GREAT!This thread isn't about liking or not liking.My comment only meant...a general statement about the shift FEEL...not the pattern.Honestly...I changed the shifting on my 14R to GP.I have to say,for me,it wasn't as smooth as the stock shift pattern.But that's just me.Someone else will get a different feel with their bike(s).It's all good.My main issue with a gp pattern on my 14 was finding N reliably.That's mostly why I went back to factory.Both patterns work well.I'm just more comfortable shifting factory pattern...that's all.
The QS from what my Dealer has told me,(he pulled apart a H2R last week,engine tranny etc at Kawi HQ Sydney)will not work when the linkage,if it can be done,is reversed.
I hope he is wrong,and I hope I am too.
But to say let's ride it first,well I wanted to say fook you's,because I ride how I want and how I'm used too.
I don't or didn't want to stir the pot,so thank you to Turtle and GoFaster for your understanding on this matter
I hope he is wrong,and I hope I am too.
But to say let's ride it first,well I wanted to say fook you's,because I ride how I want and how I'm used too.
I don't or didn't want to stir the pot,so thank you to Turtle and GoFaster for your understanding on this matter
Fabricate a new shift lever - the piece that your foot operates - which has the shift rod connecting from the top, and the sensor won't know the difference ...
And if RidgeRacer is right and there are 4 different configurations in the software for how that sensor is used, then there might be an electronic method of reversing the switch logic ...
If there's a will, there's a way.
And if RidgeRacer is right and there are 4 different configurations in the software for how that sensor is used, then there might be an electronic method of reversing the switch logic ...
If there's a will, there's a way.
^^^^^^
I'll be able to handle the linkage,hopefully.
I'll wait for your solution for the rest GoFaster.
I'll be able to handle the linkage,hopefully.
I'll wait for your solution for the rest GoFaster.
Finally got to see one in the metal at the Toronto motorcycle show (H2R only).
The shift lever pivots on the same axis as the footpeg. Fabricating another shift lever that has the shift rod connect on top instead of below shouldn't be a problem.
Routing the shift rod up there will make it interfere with the frame - so it will also be necessary to find an offset shift arm, or fabricate a new shift arm with an offset built into it, to position the shift rod further out. I have a shift arm like that on my race bike (in that case, it was to clear the sprocket cover). Most bikes use the same spline pattern, so there is no need to destroy your precious H2 OEM part in order to do this - just get another shift arm from any other bike, and cut/weld.
I don't know if routing the shift rod like that will make the sensor interfere with the shift pedal, but even if it does, I don't see that as being insurmountable.
The shift lever pivots on the same axis as the footpeg. Fabricating another shift lever that has the shift rod connect on top instead of below shouldn't be a problem.
Routing the shift rod up there will make it interfere with the frame - so it will also be necessary to find an offset shift arm, or fabricate a new shift arm with an offset built into it, to position the shift rod further out. I have a shift arm like that on my race bike (in that case, it was to clear the sprocket cover). Most bikes use the same spline pattern, so there is no need to destroy your precious H2 OEM part in order to do this - just get another shift arm from any other bike, and cut/weld.
I don't know if routing the shift rod like that will make the sensor interfere with the shift pedal, but even if it does, I don't see that as being insurmountable.
Can you use a transmission linkage piece that is off a concourse as it has a positive off set and then figure out a way to get the foot shifter to offset enough to clear the frame then turn the QS thingy around so it sees the same movement for GP shift?
Could I? Not a chance in **** but maybe someone with more mechanical skill lol I'm jk but it seems theoretically possible, but then again so does time travel...Can you use a transmission linkage piece that is off a concourse as it has a positive off set and then figure out a way to get the foot shifter to offset enough to clear the frame then turn the QS thingy around so it sees the same movement for GP shift?
good luck man looks tricky
that's not good, I was about to ask this thing as all my bike now is in GP shifting mode.
will a custom-made rod solve the problem? will the quick shifter switch be a problem? cuz the bazzaz unit on my zx6 got 2 different switch for GP and normal shifting.
will a custom-made rod solve the problem? will the quick shifter switch be a problem? cuz the bazzaz unit on my zx6 got 2 different switch for GP and normal shifting.
I was going to weld a adapter on the g/box linkage to get the clearance past the sprocket cover.
Unfortunately my other idea was just to reverse the shift rod,making the QS think normally.Told by my Dealer it won't work.He was thinking along the same lines,asked the techs at Kawi on his last training class,and the techs said it wouldn't work.
Unfortunately my other idea was just to reverse the shift rod,making the QS think normally.Told by my Dealer it won't work.He was thinking along the same lines,asked the techs at Kawi on his last training class,and the techs said it wouldn't work.
how come?I was going to weld a adapter on the g/box linkage to get the clearance past the sprocket cover.
Unfortunately my other idea was just to reverse the shift rod,making the QS think normally.Told by my Dealer it won't work.He was thinking along the same lines,asked the techs at Kawi on his last training class,and the techs said it wouldn't work.
My plan is to have a friend-of-a-friend with a CNC to make up a new shift lever which relocates the shift rod attachment above the footpeg instead of below. It will probably need an offset knuckle at the shift shaft to get the shift rod out a bit further to clear the frame, but it will still be pointing downwards so the shift rod (and the sensor) won't know the difference.
I have no idea?? Was in too much of a hurry to ride the H2 than to carry on with it.how come?
I can't see why it wouldn't work.
But I might wait and see how GoFaster's idea works.
Sounds easier and less work.
Can't wait to see the results,keep us posted please.My plan is to have a friend-of-a-friend with a CNC to make up a new shift lever which relocates the shift rod attachment above the footpeg instead of below. It will probably need an offset knuckle at the shift shaft to get the shift rod out a bit further to clear the frame, but it will still be pointing downwards so the shift rod (and the sensor) won't know the difference.
After some figuring I have made my H2 a GP shift bike, it can be done, but you will not have KQS until you figure out how to use another shift solenoid that will work in a "pull" situation. I used the transmission shaft arm off of my Connie 14 as it has an offset to it. I then made a spacer to move the shifter and shaft out enough to clear the frame.
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Thanks for the update, at least we're moving forward, maybe H&M can make one QS for us now.After some figuring I have made my H2 a GP shift bike, it can be done, but you will not have KQS until you figure out how to use another shift solenoid that will work in a "pull" situation. I used the transmission shaft arm off of my Connie 14 as it has an offset to it. I then made a spacer to move the shifter and shaft out enough to clear the frame.
Race pattern is really useful on a circuit when cranked over to the left, when it's difficult or impossible to get a toe under the lever to change up.
It doesn't affect me but it would have been nice to have the option.
It doesn't affect me but it would have been nice to have the option.
Anyone here know if the QS is adjustable.I see the adjuster bolts there...just wondering if those affect the speed of the QS.I've noticed mine is a bit more 'notchy' than when first new...I think.It seemed to feel smoother at first.Upper gears/rpms it works excellent.Is it best to use when hammering up from all gears?Couple of times...the gearbox wouldn't shift at all...like into 3rd,or 2nd.Felt like it 'locked'...the shaft/shift lever wouldn't even move.Then after another try at the shift,it was fine.Done this a couple of times.
I'm pretty sure the adjuster bolts only change the linkage length which moves the shifter pedal up/down. The linkage sensor is a variable resistance and changes its output voltage depending on the amount of force applied to the linkage. While I do not believe the force/voltage is adjustable in the sensor it definitely is in the ecu.Anyone here know if the QS is adjustable.I see the adjuster bolts there...just wondering if those affect the speed of the QS.I've noticed mine is a bit more 'notchy' than when first new...I think.It seemed to feel smoother at first.Upper gears/rpms it works excellent.Is it best to use when hammering up from all gears?Couple of times...the gearbox wouldn't shift at all...like into 3rd,or 2nd.Felt like it 'locked'...the shaft/shift lever wouldn't even move.Then after another try at the shift,it was fine.Done this a couple of times.
There is actually a minimum force threshold and force delta (rate of change over time). There are also maps for each gear that change the Ignition kill time by throttle vs rpm. They are different for each gear. There is also a minimum throttle position below which the quick shift is disabled.
If you could keep track of the throttle, rpm, and gear that the shift works and dosen't work it would help.
Also for the extremely obvious question...are you sure you are releasing the shifter between shifts? There is an inhibit timer that prevents double shifts and it doesn't start counting until you release force on the shift linkage
Are you sure the shift sensor doesn't work in a pull? Did you put an ohmmeter across the wires and push and pull on it to see if the value changes in both directions?After some figuring I have made my H2 a GP shift bike, it can be done, but you will not have KQS until you figure out how to use another shift solenoid that will work in a "pull" situation. I used the transmission shaft arm off of my Connie 14 as it has an offset to it. I then made a spacer to move the shifter and shaft out enough to clear the frame.
If it does work in both directions a quick reflash will make the KQS work.
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