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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys, I went to turn my bike on and it went into “limp mode” according to the dealership. Bike is a 2016 with 6250km on the clock. Rain mode is flashing, most of the right side of the speedo is flashing and the engine light is on. Bike is coming up with the code 23. According to the dealer it’s the Camshaft sensor. So I got a new on and fitted it. The code didn’t clear, took it to the dealer and they said they can’t clear it because that mustn’t have been the issue. Anyone else ran into this and has a solution? In desperate need of my h2 back. Anything helps. The h2 won’t start, it’s sounds like it has a flat battery (but doesn’t). Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·

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Have you had the battery checked load checked? Not just static charge checked?
I had a similar situation with that code 23, ended up being a weak battery.
Had repair work done on the engine that took a few months parked in the shop.
Ended up showing that code, started the bike and turned off a couple of times until it finally decided to run.
Put the battery on a charger and the problem seemed to clear. Have since bought a Lithium battery, no problems since. This was 2 years ago.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Have you had the battery checked load checked? Not just static charge checked?
I had a similar situation with that code 23, ended up being a weak battery.
Had repair work done on the engine that took a few months parked in the shop.
Ended up showing that code, started the bike and turned off a couple of times until it finally decided to run.
Put the battery on a charger and the problem seemed to clear. Have since bought a Lithium battery, no problems since. This was 2 years ago.
We put in a new battery to try it, also chucked the jump pack on as well. And while the new battery was in for a couple hours, we had the other one on charge, doesn’t seem to be a battery issue, kinda wish it was😅 it’s been like it for 2 weeks now
 

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Mine was after an expensive rebuild (Mea Culpa - Top End Damage!)
When I got the bike back it showed the same code 23 Cam shaft sensor. But my battery was weak after being left unused for so long, lost its conditioning, so new battery.

It does seem odd to me that the same code shows up after you got a new camshaft sensor, but they say it's something else. You've obviously got a new battery, so I guess it excludes that. Are they positive they cannot clear the code?

Okay, thinking of other things, when you turn the bike off, do you turn the key fully to the left/anti clockwise - meaning do you put it in the off but accessories position? (think that's right), if so the battery is still using power while off, and has been known to drain it over time. It's best to only turn it off to the second to last position, so no background connections are made, if that makes sense.

I think Rick150 is right in getting the wiring continuity etc. checked as well to exclude it from possible causes. Could be something as simple as loose/disconnected wiring, moisture in connectors or similar?

Good luck!

Don.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Mine was after an expensive rebuild (Mea Culpa - Top End Damage!)
When I got the bike back it showed the same code 23 Cam shaft sensor. But my battery was weak after being left unused for so long, lost its conditioning, so new battery.

It does seem odd to me that the same code shows up after you got a new camshaft sensor, but they say it's something else. You've obviously got a new battery, so I guess it excludes that. Are they positive they cannot clear the code?

Okay, thinking of other things, when you turn the bike off, do you turn the key fully to the left/anti clockwise - meaning do you put it in the off but accessories position? (think that's right), if so the battery is still using power while off, and has been known to drain it over time. It's best to only turn it off to the second to last position, so no background connections are made, if that makes sense.

I think Rick150 is right in getting the wiring continuity etc. checked as well to exclude it from possible causes. Could be something as simple as loose/disconnected wiring, moisture in connectors or similar?

Good luck!

Don.
Only ever in steering lock. When I try start it, it’s like it has a flat battery, fuel pump primes and all that, all indicators and that work. But it’s like it’s not getting spark to go. Dealership thinks I’m in for a ECU. Which I hope isnt the case
 

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Do you know a reputable Auto Electrician specialising in motorbikes? Or private motorbike mechanic?
Just trying to help you avoid getting a new ecu..

Do you know the cold cranking amps of the battery in the bike now?
Reading other threads (even zx10r sites!) it is still possible to have starting/gauge problems if the battery - even new - is not up to the initial start up. ,

My bike will still have an issue when started - if I don't give it a small amount of revs as it starts up, it will show flashing gauges and then only "catch" for half a second. I then have to persist with the start up and give it some revs, then it starts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Do you know a reputable Auto Electrician specialising in motorbikes? Or private motorbike mechanic?
Just trying to help you avoid getting a new ecu..

Do you know the cold cranking amps of the battery in the bike now?
Reading other threads (even zx10r sites!) it is still possible to have starting/gauge problems if the battery - even new - is not up to the initial start up. ,

My bike will still have an issue when started - if I don't give it a small amount of revs as it starts up, it will show flashing gauges and then only "catch" for half a second. I then have to persist with the start up and give it some revs, then it starts.
No I don’t, the bike is at the dealership waiting to be worked on, they will start on it late this week. I’m in Tasmania, Australia. And there’s only one dealership that have the license and reputation for working/selling ninja H2’s
 

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Same here in S.A. One dealership for sales & service.

I just enquired about a 24,000 km major service cost - standard cost is $1800 (AUS) here. I'm slowly sourcing parts as I know I can do most of it myself - including purchasing a magnetic base dial indicator to check for supercharger impeller axial play, and valve shim check.

It will still come out significantly cheaper for me to do it taking my time,no rushing. Only part I need to sort out is the vacuum synchronisation check on the throttle bodies, as it looks like it involves a bit more fiddling around than on my zx12r, I've got the mercury gauge already.
 
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