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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have to take out the ECU so that I can send it off for a reflash.

Ok don't laugh, before I begin ripping the bike apart, where is is located on the H2 please? I had a quick look in the tail section and under the seat, it's not there as far as I can tell, so is it up front in the fairing?

Looking at the diagrams it could be on the right side in front of the clocks.

Thanks for any replies.
 

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Go into the appendix section in the manual...wire and cable routing.You'll see it.PG 18-6,that's looking from the front of the bike.

But for your question...if you're sitting on yer bike,it's on your right side attached to the area just below and forward of the mirror stay.On the frame.I had trouble seeing mine as well...in fact,I pulled the RELAY and sent it thinking that was it.Looking back...it's VERY visible on the right there.
 

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Bob, here is my reply to an earlier request for a video telling how to remove the ECU. I am sure there might be some shortcuts, so anyone who has those, please feel free to edit or correct what I have outlined.


"I don't do much in the way of videos, but I will outline my procedure. First go buy some more of those micro towels like the Dr Beasly kit had. They were $2.49 a bag at Harbor Freight. Cover your front fender very well and maybe even tape one on for safe measure. I like wearing thin vinyl gloves and this helps keep sweat and grease down a bit when you are working on this finish. You will need a good assortment of metric allen wrenches, pretty sure you need a 6mm, a 5, 4.5, 4, and 3mm. If you don't have these you might as well stop and go get them now. I use the T handle ones and these are essential to have if you are going to work on the H2, don't even think about trying to use the all in one tool or the loose wrenches, it just takes too much time. I also use some 1/4 drive Snap On's for this and like to use a small 20 volt Dewalt impact for disassembly. You will also need a 10 mm socket. As I said in another thread, I like to lay out the fasteners in rows, in the order they come off and try to do it on each side of the bike. Put them on a shop rag, a board, a shelf, whatever, just try to organize them. If you will have it apart long, I try to replace as many fasteners as possible, to further minimize confusion.


Take the windshield off with its six or eight screws. Be careful not to scratch the windshield, if you use anything firmer than microfiber, you will scratch the windshield, I learned that the hard way. The windshield will pull back and off. The mirrors seem logical as the next step, but hold off until you can get to the wiring to remove them (learned this the hard way too).


Pull off the lower fairings on each side. There will be two black screws up top, three on the side, a large one going to the frame, one at the back and one at the very bottom of the radiator. When you pull the left side off, there will be two wiring connections to pop loose. On the right side you need to pull off the overflow hose. Pop them off and set them aside. Now pull the inner covers. They have four or five screws and when they are all loose, pop the cover off, it does have one snap fitting at the front, so give it a tug once you have all the screws out. Now you can see the turn signal wires, free those and remove the mirrors by removing the two black screws, turn the mirror to get access.


Okay, we getting close. There are two screws between the speedo and the tank to remove and two 10 mm bolts in front. With these out, make sure you have a towel on the fender, and pull the fairing forward. There is no need to disconnect the fuse holder or the headlights.


The ECU is under the throttle and brake master cylinder. It is bracketed it with about 5 screws and three brackets. This is a good time to take some pictures (I didn't, wish I had). Pull the three electrical connectors, no need to mark them, they only fit one space each. Now you are ready to mail it off to Don Guhl!


Hope this helps."
 

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Well it seems Kawi made ecu removal even easier on h2 than my 10r lol jk it's a pita similar to my bike. Silver many many send relay from 10r too. good writup Edinir. If I had bike that would be godsend.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thank you Ed, that is exactly the information I needed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
I got this far. Is it just our UK bikes which have the dreaded tamper-proof security screws?
 

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Geez...the service manual DOES mention those.Something about having to use a chisel or something to remove.Sorry Bob...yup.US models have the screws.So NOW what?Can you unplug it and send the whole deal out?The bracket and all?

Sheesh...why would they do that?They don't trust you guys in the UK...????The dealers?Either that or they think the bracket assembly is just a bit TOO technical for yaLOL!!

PG 3-40...DFI chapter,ECU removal.
 

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Cut the end off a funnel, think of what a dog wears on its head when its been to the vets to stop it licking the wound. Damp towel over your head and over funnel.

Dremmel drill. with a small grinding disk wheel. Grind a cross to find center, drill through with smallest drill bit you have. grind off raised part of head to a diametre of 7 mm. open out hole to 2mm. remove head by 1mm drill bit size increases. Head will pop off . Now deal with threaded part left by use of an easy out tool or drill it incrementally
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Can't unplug the ECU and send it with the sheet metal case because the case keeps the plugs in, as well as mounting the ECU onto the bike.

So I have to remove these clutch type anti-tamper screws. There is a tool which has hardened pins but it's not guaranteed to remove a thread-locked screw, thanks Kawasaki.

Mike from GT Motorcycles just called and kindly offered to loan me a van and I'll drop the bike down to them tomorrow morning, their technicians will hopefully be able to do it for me.

There's always dynamite of course. :)
 

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Can't unplug the ECU and send it with the sheet metal case because the case keeps the plugs in, as well as mounting the ECU onto the bike.

So I have to remove these clutch type anti-tamper screws. There is a tool which has hardened pins but it's not guaranteed to remove a thread-locked screw, thanks Kawasaki.

Mike from GT Motorcycles just called and kindly offered to loan me a van and I'll drop the bike down to them tomorrow morning, their technicians will hopefully be able to do it for me.

There's always dynamite of course. :)
your EUR version is harder to remove the ECU
 

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There isn't any threadlocker on those.Not that that helps:crying:

I guess there may be a bright side to this....replace with the allens?That design for sure was a tad overdone.Knowing ALL the bodywork had to be removed to get to it,and the mirrors and all...I would have thought they'd have a spot for it in the tail.They have their reasons I guess.

"Built Beyond Belief" ...kinda takes on a whole new meaningLOL!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
There isn't any threadlocker on those.Not that that helps:crying:

I guess there may be a bright side to this....replace with the allens?That design for sure was a tad overdone.Knowing ALL the bodywork had to be removed to get to it,and the mirrors and all...I would have thought they'd have a spot for it in the tail.They have their reasons I guess.

"Built Beyond Belief" ...kinda takes on a whole new meaningLOL!
There's red thread lock on these. I managed to shift the ones on my ZZR1400, they were more get-at-able and a small pair of mole grips did the job. Naturally I did replace them with something sensible, as I recall I bought some nice black bolts with a hex head from Probolt.

It was educational removing all the bodywork, took me a good hour doing it carefully and putting each set of fasteners in its own pot so I don't forget what goes where. It will be a couple of weeks before it goes back together and I find being methodical helps. I took some photos which I'll put on here if they look like they'll help anyone else.

I'll let you know how I (or GT Motorcycles) get on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Some images of the right hand side. The first shows the pipe to the coolant catch tank which must be pulled off. the fourth is showing the lug underneath the inner panel. The last two show the ECU.
 

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Good pics Bob...;)It's too bad someone here couldn't come up with an alternative area to stash that ECU for future removal and such.You know...ditch the bracket thing(that actually is taking up a LOT of space)...I mean...the plugs aren't gonna pop off the connectors.And that bracket isn't soft mounted like it needs a cushion for the ecu.Somewhere where you could just reach in there without taking everything apart.Maybe just remove the upper inner fairings there?And find a little spot to slip in in tucked up inside there?Of course,use some kind of light foam to cushion the edges that might contact the fairing or something...maybe use a couple of zipties and attach it to something there?


The 14 has no such bracket holding it in there,just that rubber boot deal.This shouldn't be any different durability-wise.

I may look into this myself...I just don't see that bracket being 'critical' to the performance and 'part safety' placement where it's at now.


You know...remove that cover there(in your 3rd pic)...mount or fit that ECU tucked in more in the upper fairing there.Where you can reach it by hand and pull it out enough to unplug those connectors.That design is just....KOO KOO.Even if it vibrates a bit...it still isn't gonna fail.Just secure it with something...pad it...it should be fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Mounting the ECU up front does make sense. Less heat, a shorter wiring harness and certainly a bit more room than in the H2's slender tail section.

The question I would like answered is why some parts of the world get the tamper-proof treatment and some don't. Of course easier access would be welcomed too but how many owners are going to be rolling up their sleeves and diving in there? It would seem that Big K don't want you to.
 

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Yeah,that tamper-proof deal...totally outta place.


"how many owners are going to be rolling up their sleeves and diving in there?"...apparently,quite a fewLOL!I won't be 'diving in there' again that I can imagine...but,an easier access is something I think I'll consider.Ya never know...might want a new ECU sometime...just ta have an extra.
 

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I am glad to see the Euro Nazis were tougher than the Cali Nazis on the fasteners, guess they figure the guys in the US are already too lazy to try getting to the ECU.


As for removing the tamper-proof screws, I would get a small center punch and drill with a 1/8 drill 1/8" and then go up in size until you obliterate that thing. With good drill bits we are talking ten minutes max. Replace with some nice black fasteners. Probably an M6 1.00 x 14 will do fine with nyloc nuts on the back.


Sorry I missed this. I remember seeing this in the manual, but since I did not run into it, I guess out of sight out of mind applies. Good luck.


The pics were good and should be helpful for people. Honestly, other than the ECU bracket, it goes back together very simply.


**** Oh, one other thing that is puzzling is the sizes of the hex head screws. The sizes vary from 3 mm to 4 mm to 4.5 mm and 5 mm. Wish they could standardize it. I have mine all mixed up at this point, so as you guys are pulling these apart in the future, if you want it to not look tampered with, you might want to carefully label the fasteners. The ones on the top cover (the black plastic piece between the tank and the fairing) seem to be the worst at mix and match.
 

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Yeah,that tamper-proof deal...totally outta place.


"how many owners are going to be rolling up their sleeves and diving in there?"...apparently,quite a fewLOL!I won't be 'diving in there' again that I can imagine...but,an easier access is something I think I'll consider.Ya never know...might want a new ECU sometime...just ta have an extra.


Agreed about easier access. I am about to do the Power Commander soon and am not looking forward to another trip under the fairing, but its gotta be done.
 
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