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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I removed my ECU this afternoon, and while i was careful, the **** wiring block on the left side of the ECU broke its plastic tab :(

Can i buy a replacement?

If i cant, i guess my only option is to use glue after it has been re-flashed by Brock.

Great bike but shitty location for an ECU. PITA to remove!

..... OMG the front fairing is really heavy! I thought LED's were light (no pun intended)
 

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Two things.

1. I believe when you put it back in that the cage and all of the surrounding paraphanalia will hold the wire in pretty tight. Which one of the tabs broke ? Pics ?

2. Why start a new thread for every thought you have, this would be well suited under the other ECU removal tab, more readers on a search.

NOLA
 

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I removed my ECU this afternoon, and while i was careful, the **** wiring block on the left side of the ECU broke its plastic tab :(

Can i buy a replacement?

If i cant, i guess my only option is to use glue after it has been re-flashed by Brock.

Great bike but shitty location for an ECU. PITA to remove!

..... OMG the front fairing is really heavy! I thought LED's were light (no pun intended)
Yeah, I removed both middle fairings, ram air tube, etc today, removing radiator & doing an exhaust install tomorrow. Even the 2 rectifier plugs in the left fairing give me issues every time, it's not the simplest bike to work on.

Not positive of the part you're referring to but maybe this will help, available via bikebandit:

 

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The rectifier plugs are completely ridiculous. An engineer at KHI should be punched in the face for that one.

NOLA
 

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I removed my ECU this afternoon, and while i was careful, the **** wiring block on the left side of the ECU broke its plastic tab :(

Can i buy a replacement?

If i cant, i guess my only option is to use glue after it has been re-flashed by Brock.

Great bike but shitty location for an ECU. PITA to remove!

..... OMG the front fairing is really heavy! I thought LED's were light (no pun intended)
You can't buy a replacement connector from Kawasaki, but it's a really common one, you can find and aftermarket replacement for sure. Be EXTREMELY careful when you swap the wires, put them in a wrong position can cause BIG issues.
 

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Yeah, I removed both middle fairings, ram air tube, etc today, removing radiator & doing an exhaust install tomorrow. Even the 2 rectifier plugs in the left fairing give me issues every time, it's not the simplest bike to work on.

Not positive of the part you're referring to but maybe this will help, available via bikebandit:


I hate those rectifier connectors. They are a pain to get lose. Last time I was in the bike to install the lower winglets I put a thin film of WD40 on them to hopefully make them slide off easier next time I need to get them off.
 

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Great, @Turbo329 got it perfectly! @kawah2

TE - Amp Superseal 1.0 Motorsport Series


You have only to check if it's the 26 pins or the 34 pins. The good thing of this type of connector, there's only a single plastic lock to release, and all the wires will come off. The downside is that if you don't pay extreme attention, more or all wires can come out at once and you will be in trouble. Nothing that a service manual can't solve though.
 

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I believe he was referring to the fairing completely assembled with lights, duct and everything.
yeah I know, it was meant as a joke, since I a pic of my fairing bare it seemed like a good time to post it up.
 
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