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Looked in service manual for location of ECU. Photos all seemed to be close ups and I am having trouble with general location. Is it in front of the forks? Guidance would be appreciated.
Thanks
 

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You might want to shoot Ghul Motors a PM about this as they're working on an ECU tune and should be one of your best options for a response ASAP.
 

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It's up under the upper fairing.See frame chapter in the service manual.Also look in the DFI chapter...it'll show where it's actually at once the fairing is removed.I'm not going there...not anytime soon that is.Hope this helps ya.
 

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I wish someone would make an edited video on the removal of the ECU on the Kawasaki H2. Guhl really does not want to take the responsibility to remove the ECU and I really don't blame them. Please if there is a video is available please help.
 

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I just removed mine. It is behind the front fairing next to the headlight. Take the mirrors off and there are 4 bolts holding the front fairing on (removal of front fairing is in service manual). ECU will be on right side inside a rubber protector. Can't miss it. It has three plugs going in the bottom.
 

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Correct, the ECU is in the front fairing on the right hand side.

Hope the image is self-expalnatory. If you are in Europe the bolts securing the sheet metal cage around the ECU are tamper proof.

You will have to remove both side panels, the inner trim panels and the screen and mirrors.

Then you can get to the four remaining bolts which hold the fairing. Two under the screen in the centre and two under the clocks. You can pull it forward enough to get to the ECU.

The cage is bolted to the top yoke, undo this first and then you can get to it.

You cannot remove any of the multi-way connectors until you remove the cage.

Protect the front mudguard as the fairing will rest on it. I used bubble-wrap.
 

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Correct, the ECU is in the front fairing on the right hand side.

Hope the image is self-expalnatory. If you are in Europe the bolts securing the sheet metal cage around the ECU are tamper proof.

You will have to remove both side panels, the inner trim panels and the screen and mirrors.

Then you can get to the four remaining bolts which hold the fairing. Two under the screen in the centre and two under the clocks. You can pull it forward enough to get to the ECU.

The cage is bolted to the top yoke, undo this first and then you can get to it.

You cannot remove any of the multi-way connectors until you remove the cage.

Protect the front mudguard as the fairing will rest on it. I used bubble-wrap.
hello I'm in Italy and you said that the ECU is armored? it means that it is difficult to take it apart? thank you
 

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hello I'm in Italy and you said that the ECU is armored? it means that it is difficult to take it apart? thank you
Yes it is difficult. The bolts they use for us in Europe are designed so that they cannot be removed with normal tools.

You can get a special tool for this or use a small chisel to turn them. I replaced them with normal bolts when i refitted the ECU to my H2.
 

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Yes it is difficult. The bolts they use for us in Europe are designed so that they cannot be removed with normal tools.

You can get a special tool for this or use a small chisel to turn them. I replaced them with normal bolts when i refitted the ECU to my H2.
thanks for your information, but you because I've disassembled, what did you do?
 

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Totally unfortunate they did this with the EURO H2's.I can't imagine why.
In some bureaucrat's mind, they are making the vehicle tamper-proof so that it cannot be modified to be out of compliance with emission standards.

In reality, they are just making life difficult for the commoners.

We have the same problem with industrial equipment; it's supposed to be made idiot proof but all it does is make it more miserable to work on.
 

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They didn't use those screws here in the US.Glad they didn't.I'd hate have to deal with all that...even if it's a one time shot.Getting it out was bad enough;)
 

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perchè hai smontato la centralina? che lavoro hai fatto? grazie
Ok. I sent the ECU to Brock's Performance in the USA for a reflash. I have fitted a Power Commander with a custom map and I also changed the gearing from 18/44 to 19/42.
 

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Hey Bob...so this gearing change is to do what?And with it like that,how's the fuel mileage and overall rideability?
The gearing change is because I run my H2 in standing mile, LSR, racing.

With the 13,000rpm normal limit of the H2 it will run out of revs in the mid 180's on it's standard gearing. This change to 19/44 takes it potentially to about 214mph. I have a choice of 18 and 19 tooth gearbox sprockets and 42, 43 and 44 rear sprockets. The rears are so easy to change and sometimes it will be necessary at the track depending upon conditions.

I have the early Brock's Flash (1) which retains the 13,000 limit and my bikes peak power is at around 12,000.

Oddly, I did wonder if it would be too high geared for normal road riding. In fact the H2 is so ridiculously under-geared that it's better with these ratios.
 

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Ok. I sent the ECU to Brock's Performance in the USA for a reflash. I have fitted a Power Commander with a custom map and I also changed the gearing from 18/44 to 19/42.
the bike has improved a lot? that judgment has? As you wait for me to get the ECU? thank you
la moto è migliorata molto? che giudizio hai? quanto hai aspettato per riavere la ecu? grazie
 
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