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He might be right, However, when you're running boost, even 3 degrees can affect a lot of horsepower. I've seen horsepower numbers jump 5+ horsepower with just 1 degree of timing adjustment. It's a little challenging for you since you have to keep sending your ECU back and forth, but you can't be too careful with a Stage III SC Gear kit. You're in unchartered waters.


I don't know how you scored an H2R fuel pump but great job! Also, I like your approach of leaving the rev limiter in the 13k range. Very smart. I wouldn't chase peak HP at high RPM with these things. There are no true long term tests out their yet.

Not sure that SC gears are going to be safer long term on the motor than a 14k rev limit, it might (or might not) be the other way around. Think we have more true testing on these motors at 14k then with super charger gears, not just all the people running Brocks Stage II set up but Kawasaki obviously did gear testing & there has to be a reason they went that direction (higher rev limit) w/ the H2R vs. the H2 over changing the H2R's SC gears.

And with 14k it's something you can control, how often &/or how long you are between 13k & 14k. For me over 8k & I use the added 1k rpms but it'll be a quite a while till 30 hours/ to service intervals similar to the H2R. I shift above 13k when I need or want it, versus say with SC gears w/ out (or even w/) an intercooler & maybe constant higher inlet temps which are there constantly & can't be controlled when going hard up the rev range on a street bike that's ridden thousands of miles each year, which based on the additional power it's producing constantly across the rev range from all rpms up to 13k might require (speculating) an even more accelerated maintenance schedule than a Stage II H2 w/ out gears & a 14K rev limit.

But I get that it's different strokes for different folks,,, for what they prefer, that's perfectly ok too & find your bike & Racer172's build really, really interesting .... For my preference/use with 5-10k street miles, often thousands of miles in 85F + summer temps plus a couple of track days a year I'd rather have a bike that runs cooler w/ a 14k rev limit & more power at the top of the rev band when I want to use it for high mph straights then chase more power lower in the revs w/ SC gears.
 

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Not sure that SC gears are going to be safer long term on the motor than a 14k rev limit, it might (or might not) be the other way around. Think we have more true testing on these motors at 14k then with super charger gears, not just all the people running Brocks Stage II set up but Kawasaki obviously did gear testing & there has to be a reason they went that direction (higher rev limit) w/ the H2R vs. the H2 over changing the H2R's SC gears.

And with 14k it's something you can control, how often &/or how long you are between 13k & 14k. For me over 8k & I use the added 1k rpms but it'll probably never add up to 30 hours/ to service intervals similar to the H2R. I shift above 13k when I need or want it, versus say with SC gears w/ out (or even w/) an intercooler & maybe constant higher inlet temps which are there constantly & can't be controlled when going hard up the rev range on a street bike that's ridden thousands of miles each year, which based on the additional power it's producing constantly across the rev range might require (speculating) an even more accelerated maintenance schedule than the H2R's/or an H2 w/ a 14K rev limit.

But I get that it's different strokes for different folks,,, for what they prefer, that's perfectly ok too & find your bike & Racer172's build really interesting .... For my preference with 5-10k street miles, often thousands of miles in 85F + summer temps plus a couple of track days a year I'd rather have a bike that runs cooler w/ a 14k rev limit & more power at the top of the rev band when I want to use it for high mph straights then chase more power lower in the revs w/ SC gears.
I like all of your points. If I were to make an educated guess, more boost is harder on the combustion chamber, particularly pistons and rings (maybe even cylinder walls if you start getting knocking), whereas more RPM is harder on bearing shells and crankshaft journals. If I had the choice I would almost always take bigger power at a slightly lower rpm rather than higher rpm power. A top end job is a lot easier to perform than going into the bottom end to inspect bearings prematurely.


I'm pretty sure that Kawasaki destroyed a few Superchargers in testing which probably led to them putting screens over the velocity stacks. The comment in the manual also stated that the purpose of the screens is to protect the motor in the event of a Supercharger failure. I think the biggest enemy to more boost is heat as you mentioned. Even without the gears, OneArm melted his #1 piston. So even just a flashed bike can't handle stock levels of boost at redline on a 40 mile run. I think that's been secretly established but Kawi's been hush-hush about it since I guess we "really shouldn't be street racing anyway" and most tracks can't provide 40 miles of wide open fun. hahahahahahaha In all fairness, OneArm should probably be changing his oil weekly. hahahahahahahaha


When on the track I typically early shift around 12,500rpm. Very rarely do I actually get close to redline. For whatever reason the tach is hard for me to read. I'm having trouble adjusting. Whenever I watch my vids I always get upset at myself for not shifting at 13,200rpm or in the ballpark.


When my bike just ran the flash it kind of freaked me out. I simply can't imagine how it will feel next season when I get back on the track. I will be getting an intercooler though for sure. In fact, I just sold my spare gas tank to someone who is developing a kit.


There's so much development on this bike it's amazing. Some of the best vendors in the industry are all throwing their hats in. Good stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
It's a little challenging for you since you have to keep sending your ECU back and forth
Nate, if you are referring to my ECU it hasn't gone anywhere, my tuner is here in San Diego. As a matter of fact we connected a "pigtail" cable to the ECU, it's tucked inside the fairing but easily pulled out when we need to change the mapping, as we did in the throttle mapping post I did. So any any updates we want to do the ECU, no fairings come off. Especially convenient at the track :)
 

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We broke our own records this week with a customer bike. We simply remap and install our H2R type system and achieved a whopping 272.7 rwhp which given the fact we are not making any changes to gears, injectors and everything is stock we are delighted!

We remap customers ECU for $450 plus shipping for those who are looking for an easy tuning option to gain circa 30% rwhp increase when used with our H2R system or circa 25% with OEM.

[email protected]
 

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Nate, if you are referring to my ECU it hasn't gone anywhere, my tuner is here in San Diego. As a matter of fact we connected a "pigtail" cable to the ECU, it's tucked inside the fairing but easily pulled out when we need to change the mapping, as we did in the throttle mapping post I did. So any any updates we want to do the ECU, no fairings come off. Especially convenient at the track :)
Ah, that's right. You did mention that before. In all honesty then, since it's so easy for you to access it wouldn't hurt starting from scratch as far as Ign Advance is concerned. Stage 3 is no joke. It's always good to have a baseline to start from and stock is a great place to start. You're halfway their since you've got the dyno with the current settings. A baseline with the stock ignition map will tell you if you're headed in the right direction.


Ignition map changes are tedious and they really should be done 1 degree (but no more than 2 degrees) at a time.


Because of you, I'm tempted to buy that 23 tooth gear now and run the stage III. lol But I'm gonna hold off until I get some track time. I might still buy the gear anyway and keep it in my closet. :nerd:
 

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@khoa9876

Hey man, the "dyno mode" was a joke. It doesnt have it. We were being funny.

Just turn off traction control and dyno it. 4th gear is what most people use a mode of comparison, 6th will show you the top power.

NOLA
 
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