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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Hey Racer172 how are the bolts that are holding the gears? Are they holding tight?
Yeah holding up great. Actually I have Turbo329 to thank for the head's up on that one, he had issues. For us the gears went on super easy and we used a high-strength high-temp Locktight, let it set for a day before even starting it up. Solid.
 
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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Racer172, what are you're thoughts on an intercooler?
We are taking your guys advice and going to install one. What I've learned is I need to make sure the boost temp doesn't go above 230 deg f or I could melt the top half of the engine. The most dangerous time boost heat is when the bike is up in the rpms for long periods of time like doing the long high speed runs. In the canyons I think I'm ok for now, and at the track I will keep the rpms down and monitor the boost temp, but we will do the intercooler soon.
 
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Racer172,


Yeah man, the Red High Temperature Loctite should hold. Hopefully you torqued it down to more than 15ftlbs as well. I torqued mine to 19 and haven't had an issue since.


Periodically, pull the oil fill cap on the clutch clover to inspect clearance. Just keep an eye on it for the sake of a long term test/report.


As everyone has already mentioned, with a Stage III you definitely want to incorporate a Water/Meth Inj. or Intercooler. There are a few companies in the process of developing kits and I just sold my spare Fuel Tank to someone who is developing a kit as well. Per his post on FB, MCCCYLES is done for the winter so it might be hard to source one at the moment but not impossible. Make sure you get one though! The quickest solution would be to buy the Water/Meth Injection kit and I believe that OneArm from this forum and Facebook is selling his. My personal preference is the intercooler. $0.02


I'm not sure if I could handle the stage 3 power leaned over mid corner and being that you're a track guy I'm a tad surprised that you went that extreme. I'm sure it'll be fun trying to tame it though. I typically ran a gear or two higher mid corner and just torqued my way through the turns V-Twin style. Works for me and keeps temps low. Also is less likely to stop the traction control from kicking in.


Above all else, what you ABSOLUTELY MUST do, before you destroy that beautiful engine is to send your ECU back to Brocks/Guhl and have them put your ignition timing back to stock. They are running a very aggressive timing map with the Brock's Stage II Package and that is the likely culprit as to why your dynograph took a dive at a particular point on the map. TRUST ME. I've done hundreds of hours of dyno tuning and whenever the bike doesn't like a particular ignition timing setting the graph behaves erratically. No amount of fueling changes will dial it out. With all due respect to the 'Powers that be', I probably have one of the smoothest H2 powerbands in the world.


The tuning rule of thumb is: MORE BOOST = MORE IGNITION RETARD -- OR -- MORE BOOST = LESS IGNITION TIMING ADVANCE ...........whichever is easier for you to remember.


With the riding season pretty much a wrap, you've got plenty of time to get it sorted before spring. I know you San Diego guys ride all year round but I would take advantage of the industry downtime.
 

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When you guys dyno your bikes do all the lights start flashing on the dash? The ktrc was off by the way
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
When you guys dyno your bikes do all the lights start flashing on the dash? The ktrc was off by the way
YES!!! that was a bitch. My dyno guys kept calling me over to turn off TC and I would find the rain umbrella flashing, LOL. I kept resetting the mode and it kept coming on, until all of a sudden it didn't, for some reason TC stayed off and the malfunction flash stopped happening. This was the case in all 3 dyno runs we did.
 

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YES!!! that was a bitch. My dyno guys kept calling me over to turn off TC and I would find the rain umbrella flashing, LOL. I kept resetting the mode and it kept coming on, until all of a sudden it didn't, for some reason TC stayed off and the malfunction flash stopped happening. This was the case in all 3 dyno runs we did.

Yep saw the umbrella flashing also. Of course they went away once the bike was turned off and back on. Kinda reminds me of when I put my R1 on the Dyno the ABS light come on until you ride the bike a little. I'm sure its happening because the bike knows the back wheel is spinning but the front isn't. Wiah these bike had some sort of dyno mode
 

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YES!!! that was a bitch. My dyno guys kept calling me over to turn off TC and I would find the rain umbrella flashing, LOL. I kept resetting the mode and it kept coming on, until all of a sudden it didn't, for some reason TC stayed off and the malfunction flash stopped happening. This was the case in all 3 dyno runs we did.


Terry,

The 250hp you got is low but not terrible considering two things: 1) that your anti detonation is probably kicking in. 2) You're still at 13,000rpm. If you put the ignition timing back to stock and play with the fueling, don't be surprised if you jump 5-10hp to the tune of about 260hp, even at 13000 rpm. If you decide to bump up the rpm to 14k or just under, and also do a custom map, I believe you'll see 270-275hp at the wheel with the stage 3 gears.


For reference, I'm running Stage 2 gears at 13,500rpm and put out 251hp (SAE). In my application, 260hp is attainable with more rpm and some more tweaking (Fueling/Timing) but I plan to stay conservative. So a Stage III is definitely good for another 15hp.


In my humble opinion, it's nearly impossible to be full throttle at high rpm once you pass 240hp. It's unbelievable that the thing wheelies at 160mph +. Chasing peak numbers is somewhat pointless unless you stretch it. On the other hand, dyno shootouts are always fun and we all love big numbers. I would change your ignition map as mentioned earlier, and then have your tuner smooth out the power delivery and call it a day. Don't forget about the intercooler either!


Had to edit my thread because I almost forgot..... I've heard a few different reports that the Stage III Gears can stress the stock fuel pump. You should probably look into aftermarket.
 

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@EnviedH2

You can put the bike in dyno mode by :

1. Turn on the ignition, dont start it
2. Turn on the left turn signal
3. Hold the mode button in
4. Press the horn button twice

Presto, the dash says "Dyno mode" and its ready.

NOLA
 

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@EnviedH2

You can put the bike in dyno mode by :

1. Turn on the ignition, dont start it
2. Turn on the left turn signal
3. Hold the mode button in
4. Press the horn button twice

Presto, the dash says "Dyno mode" and its ready.

NOLA
Cool, never heard of that. How did you discover?
 

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@EnviedH2

You can put the bike in dyno mode by :

1. Turn on the ignition, dont start it
2. Turn on the left turn signal
3. Hold the mode button in
4. Press the horn button twice

Presto, the dash says "Dyno mode" and its ready.

NOLA

Don't you have to tap the rear brake once before #4 . hitting the horn twice, or is that just in 2015's?
 

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@EnviedH2

You can put the bike in dyno mode by :

1. Turn on the ignition, dont start it
2. Turn on the left turn signal
3. Hold the mode button in
4. Press the horn button twice

Presto, the dash says "Dyno mode" and its ready.

NOLA
LoL I hope nobody falls for this but it is funny
 

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@EnviedH2

Sorry dude I had to :)

How many times did your wife say "Why do you keep beeping the horn !?!?"

NOLA
Dude 0 times LoL. Just reading it I was laughing cause I knew someone was going to try it
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
I would change your ignition map as mentioned earlier, and then have your tuner smooth out the power delivery and call it a day. Don't forget about the intercooler either! the Stage III Gears can stress the stock fuel pump. You should probably look into aftermarket.
Thanks Nate. I'm running the H2R's fuel pump, is that the one you are talking about being stressed? My tuner read your previous post about Ignition map and he said we are not far from stock, just 3deg & 1deg from stock. That doesn't mean anything to me be he said we should be fine, said it's less that the R. We are going to do the intercooler before going to Mojave Mile, and we've had geat success with the throttle mapping
 

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Thanks Nate. I'm running the H2R's fuel pump, is that the one you are talking about being stressed? My tuner read your previous post about Ignition map and he said we are not far from stock, just 3deg & 1deg from stock. That doesn't mean anything to me be he said we should be fine, said it's less that the R. We are going to do the intercooler before going to Mojave Mile, and we've had geat success with the throttle mapping
He might be right, However, when you're running boost, even 3 degrees can affect a lot of horsepower. I've seen horsepower numbers jump 5+ horsepower with just 1 degree of timing adjustment. It's a little challenging for you since you have to keep sending your ECU back and forth, but you can't be too careful with a Stage III SC Gear kit. You're in unchartered waters.


I don't know how you scored an H2R fuel pump but great job! Also, I like your approach of leaving the rev limiter in the 13k range. Very smart. I wouldn't chase peak HP at high RPM with these things. There are no true long term tests out their yet.
 
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