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@aleib

Yes sir, reading my mind. I am knee deep in the service manual right now. Tomorrow the clutch cover is coming off. I am taking bets on one of two things. shifter return spring, or gear selector spring. I am thinking its somewhere in the neighborhood of this. I already got the shifter crankcase oil seal part number, and the clutch cover seal part number.

I am tired of this, this has got to be a busted spring, or bent rod. It happens when I have been riding for a while which could be cause it heats up and things start to expand. I am gonna figure this out....its not rocket surgery :)

NOLA

At least I get a free oil change with this.
 

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stuck in gear

It is still broke. Rode for 20 min and its stuck in gear. Frustrating.
NOLA
Sounds like a bent shift fork or gear issue. Time to split the cases and get on with it. Many of us in the 70's broke the unbreakable z1 tranny.

Timing the selection with the erection is a fuzzy thing when young.
 

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Well, we just checked the box of replacing the master. and the slave.

I'm gonna go with it being something else.

NOLA
 

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I'm gonna ask a REALLY REALLY dumb question here.Okay...just HOW are you shifting yer baby?I don't mean,technique necessarily.But force of shift either up or down,clutch or no clutch.Have you been gentle on it,or balls out shiftwise.Which somehow brought me to my other question...how about the QS?Enabled?Use it often,or not.Still not clear on what MODEL you have.

I don't know about you NOLA how you 'broke your bike in"...but I was pretty darn mellow on the shifting for a little over 1000 miles.It actually loosened up some right about there.
 

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Of the spring etc were not returning properly you should be able to centre the shifter manually to complete the shift , My Tiger 800 has this potential problem and when the spring breaks apparently you can ride it home as long as your aware to re centre the lever after a shift

Yours though sounds a bit like a selector problem within the gearbox
At least the box comes out easy , no splitting cases , just comes out the clutch side as a unit , Your dealer should know this and for all the downtime and stuffing around probably should have checked given your description right from the start
 

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OZ

I am thinking its the spring. The selector looks to be external to the transmission. Its mostly located on the clutch side and there is where I am thinking the spring issue is. You are right, on the H2 the transmission comes out the clutch side of the bike with the engine still in, and not splitting the case. Thats a really good thing.

NOLA
 

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I probably used the wrong word with selector , your right that would be the outside the gearbox section , i was thinking the problem could be further in, but definitely needs a good look at the whole system and get to whats actually wrong
 

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Figured it out. I am going to do a separate write-up with pics in its own thread. Never know who is doing a board search, and it could help them if their bike does this.

Here is a prelude: "Shift Drum Cam Holder Bolt."

NOLA
 

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Perfect, two things: 1) confirm the issue is unrelated to the "dirty clutch fuild" issue and 2) please give it a link here, just in case.
 

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So now what about the master?You gonna see if you can return it?I don't know if they do stuff like that?I mean,it wouldn't hurt to ask...I guess?That is,if you had to pay a bunch of money for it.

They CONFIRMED that's what it was,right?The master I mean.So basically,THEY misdiagnosed.They owe you...I think.It's no skin off their nose to refund that master cost.And labor.As a shop for Kawasaki,they should know what kind of issues this bike could have.They've had 2 something years now to study the manuals and check for 'oddish' problems.It'll be good for em.Win Win.
 

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@h2madness!

Take a deep breath.I got this.Take a second and read post 31,36,38.The slave and master were warrantied.I confirmed what it actually is.I took it apart and found the bolt backed out.This is a bike dealers sell maybe one of, certainly not many.No one is that familiar with them.Its not a ZX-10.

Also.See the really long rectangle at the bottom of the keyboard.Its the space bar.Its customary to press it once after you hit the period button.Just a thought.

:)

NOLA
 

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Warrantied..okay...that's what I was wondering.

Ok...you mean like this..."ton.Jus",or this?"breath.I"...got it!Thanks NOLA!Yer awesome;)(Glad ya got that new master on there anyway...can't hurt for sure.

"I confirmed what it actually is"...so you told em it's the master then?(before you confirmed it was that bolt in there) I mean,they replaced that,right?.....





PS..just fkn wit yaLOL
 

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Andddddd....it was the clutch slave. Good call to all of the Nostradamus fans here.

Two things:
1. The seal shows signs of a tiny leak in it.
2. The Brembo part has been discontinued and replaced with a new part that comes warranted in a "kit."
Old part was 13231-0005
New part is 99999-0610

Kawasaki said they didn't make many of the old parts to replace on bikes because they didn't foresee premature failure at all. Apparently the clutch slaves are failing on more than they predicted and they released a "kit" with a 99999 prefix part number. Mine didn't have any gunk or rocks, or chain lube in it like I expected, or @aleib noticed. Just a small hole in the seal which would lend me to believe the theory is correct as it took over a week to fail a second time after I changed the fluid.

Kawi also said this part would make the clutch lever easier to pull as it was a complaint. I think the Kawi tech just had the 2015 to 2016 clutch redesign story stuck in his head and that's not really applicable here.

Hope this helps somebody trying to diagnose a problem.

NOLA
My 2015 has never had milky clutch fluid but I did notice the level had really dropped very low after two years and c 2000 miles . Before my warranty ran out I rode to my dealership and they topped it up free of charge and told me to keep an eye on it . Another 500 miles and I can see it's dropping again and I've noticed a tiny weep somewhere near the slave that has bubbled the frame paint ( only about 10 mm at the very bottom ) .
My two year warranty is finished but will Kawasaki sort this as it seems to be a problem from new ?

Ps , may be no record of me getting it topped up at the dealership as it was not booked in , I just asked them to take a look at it for me .
 

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Let me chime in on a couple of things.
First the fluid. Brake fluid is designed to resist heat and not boil. The clutch slave cyl generates almost no heat and in return the fluid absorbs the small amount of air available and because there is no heat to "burn " it off the clutch becomes spongy. My Concours got very spongy and the clutch was really bad, I changed the fluid to Motul DOT4 and instantly the clutch was like new. The milky look is from moisture and air being absorbed. The discoloration is most likely the rubber parts being attacked by the contamination.
The answer is to change the fluid at regular intervals. So far the Motul is holding up well. A complete change is fairly easy, I use a syringe to remove all fluid from the res, refill it with new fluid and then bleed until fresh and clean fluid comes out.
Chain lube:
After trying everything over the 50 years I have been riding, by far the best I have found is Maxima chain wax.
The real problem is the new chain has a nasty grease on it and that flings off from day one. From new I take a rag and soak it with odorless mineral spirits and wipe the chain as best I can. Then after a couple of hundred miles I take off the cover and clean off any crap that got flung off and clean the chain again. Then apply the chain wax and allow it to dry.Your flinging problems are pretty much solved at that point. Cleaning the chain is just a matter of a rag soaked in mineral spirits and you can then clean the sprockets with a razor blade.
 
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