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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys,

Are there currently any known downfalls, issues, or engineering faults with the H2 engine or trans?

With any new design I am reminded of the 2008-2011 cbr1000’s that had crank failures and the 2010 s1000’s that had some cam failures.

I read this forum for hours and it seems these H2’s are pretty rock solid and reliable. Have there been engine failures (not counting highly modded bikes of course) or serious issues?

I owned an s1000 and currently ride a hayabusa daily. Looking to purchase an H2 very soon and want to make sure I know what I am getting into…

Thanks
 

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My H2, new in March 2015, has now done three seasons of LSR with no faults at all. It still has stock SC gears, just a reflash, PCV, filter and Akrapovic race system. It runs sweetly.

I've heard of one or two failures, I think with modified engines but I'll let those who know the details comment.
 

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If you tamper with the supercharger drive to speed up the supercharger to try to get more power, the center bolt on one of the pulleys doesn't want to stay put. The stock setup seems fine, I haven't heard of a single issue with that bolt backing out with the stock supercharger drive.

These engines are closer to thermal limits than normally-aspirated engines are. Tampering with ignition timing and/or air/fuel ratio and making a mistake on a normally-aspirated engine usually results in it not making power or misfiring or running badly. Doing the same on a forced-induction engine can melt pistons. Stock ... Doesn't seem to be a big problem ...

If you de-restrict and operate at full throttle near top speed for extended periods you can blow stuff up. I can't ride like that where I live, and I'm not sure I'd want to even if I could.

Ridden like a non-madman with at least some sense of driver's-license preservation, there's no issue ... Very hard to use full throttle for more than a few seconds at a time.
 

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Ridden like a non-madman with at least some sense of driver's-license preservation, there's no issue ... .
HEY! I resemble that remark! >:D
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Good to hear, thanks for the quick responses!

My 'good buddy' 650ib sold me on this bike with all the smackdown youtube vids so I hope to have it soon, working with a dealer now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So I went in to the dealer today and ran into a problem...

I'm 6'4" and my knees do not fit in the tank grooves, they extend over the ridges quite a bit making it somewhat uncomfortable and unable to really squeeze the tank.

Any long leg guys with a fix? I can't seem to find any lower rear sets for sale except for a guy on this forum and I'm not sure where he got them... 650ib is tall also, not sure what he does... any advice helps. Thanks
 

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A couple things I found out over the past couple years.

1. If you drag race, you need a different oil pan. The factory pickup location can/will suck air on a wheelie launch killing the bearings.

2. The lower supercharger bolt can back out on aftermarket gear sets as mentioned. However no engines have failed as a result.

3. Several people have melted the motor. You have to keep a close eye on your intake temperature, and you cannot ride this bike wide open for miles or do back to back to back pulls with it.

4. Do not increase your rev limter beyond 14k. There have been cases of blown motors from increasing past that rpm.

5. If you increase the hp, there have been cases of the screen on the velocity stacks tearing open.

6. The clutch is a weak point on the 2015 model. Recommend stiffer springs. The 2016 and up clutch is stronger, but you have to be specific with your oil, and there is stiffer springs available for that clutch too.
 
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1. If you drag race, you need a different oil pan. The factory pickup location can/will suck air on a wheelie launch killing the bearings.
Do you think that had something to do with what happened to yours? (which stood up to a lot of abuse before it actually broke)

I'd say "plausible" ...
 

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^I had the aftermarket pan on my bike. Mr Gadson had a couple failures from the stock pan before having Adams Performance redesign it.
 

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So I went in to the dealer today and ran into a problem...

I'm 6'4" and my knees do not fit in the tank grooves, they extend over the ridges quite a bit making it somewhat uncomfortable and unable to really squeeze the tank.

Any long leg guys with a fix? I can't seem to find any lower rear sets for sale except for a guy on this forum and I'm not sure where he got them... 650ib is tall also, not sure what he does... any advice helps. Thanks

The seat can be adjusted back about 10mm I think. It helps.

Also, get the SATO Rearsets. They aren't cheap ($600) but offer you a VERY WIDE range of adjustability and come in standard or GP Shift. I bought the GP Shift version because, well, Fast! :p

I have a YouTube video about these topics on my channel (Turbo329). Take a look. My vids are amateurish and nowhere near Ib's level but they pack some good info that might help you.
 

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A couple things I found out over the past couple years.

1. If you drag race, you need a different oil pan. The factory pickup location can/will suck air on a wheelie launch killing the bearings.

2. The lower supercharger bolt can back out on aftermarket gear sets as mentioned. However no engines have failed as a result.

3. Several people have melted the motor. You have to keep a close eye on your intake temperature, and you cannot ride this bike wide open for miles or do back to back to back pulls with it.

4. Do not increase your rev limter beyond 14k. There have been cases of blown motors from increasing past that rpm.

5. If you increase the hp, there have been cases of the screen on the velocity stacks tearing open.

6. The clutch is a weak point on the 2015 model. Recommend stiffer springs. The 2016 and up clutch is stronger, but you have to be specific with your oil, and there is stiffer springs available for that clutch too.


Adam pretty much nailed it all here. I would like to add the following:


1) To reiterate Adam's #3 , If you flash the bike, you can run pump gas but you cannot do back to back runs .............. unless you're running a good quality race fuel. I've run C12, C16, Q16, and others here have run MRX02. Personally, I recommend C12 because it's the cheapest ($80 for 5 Gallons), protects the motor, and lowers intake temps by at least 20*F based on my experience. It's also a very light spec gravity, burns fast and makes the motor a lot perkier.

2) My rule of thumb - Stage 1, or 2 gears without Intercooler, you ONLY RUN RACE FUEL or a 70/30 mix with pump to stretch it. With intercooler, you can run pump safely.

3) Stock gears with flash, no more than 13,900 (based on Adam's experience that he passed along to me)

4) Stage 2 gears, no more than 13,500rpm (based on my experience)

5) Stage 3 gears, I would keep limter at 13,000 - 13,200. Intercooler Mandatory. (I won't reveal my source on this one)

6) I change my oil every 400 race track miles (4 track days or 2 weekends of track riding), and every 800-1,000 street miles. I'm partial to Mobil 1 4T Racing as it has great shear properties when hot. Others here like Amsoil.

7) Ignition timing is directly proportional to increased intake temps. Most flashing options increase the timing and the pipes will glow when on it hard (pipes don't glow with stock timing). Conservative ignition timing or even leaving it stock will work wonders for heat reduction. You'll make about 10-12 less peak horsepower but the motor will like it.

Lastly, if you install SC gears, plan to do a checkup/re-torque every 3 months during riding season, or every 1,000 race track miles, or ??? drag strip passes (Adam can fill in the blank for the Drag Strip Passes). For me it's no big deal pulling the clutch to check the bolt because I change oil so frequently anyway
 
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