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I purchased my Vandemon titanium exhaust and am ready to put it on. I wanted to do a stage II Brocks performance package to my bike... full pipe, ecu flash, power commander and air filter.

I just contacted Brocks and they don't have a flash for the 2018 model. They only have them for the 2015-2016 models. I contacted dynojet power commander in Las Vegas and spoke to them and they don't have any data either for the 2018 bike, therefore don't have anything to sell me. They said there has not been a demand and therefore they have not done any testing.

I was thinking of just ordering the 2016 model flash from Brocks and same with the power commander... just order their 2016 model.

Any suggestions would be appreciated? Thanks in advance.
 

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Ted's right, I would look to Woolich as well, when you look at their website it has all the paraphernalia for flashing the 2018 H2.

You could do all your own "real world" tuning via data logging/flashing etc. or maybe get someone local who knows the systems to do it (as I did).

Unless Brock/Guhl are going to sort it out soon maybe??

Don.
 

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Thanks. I went to their website and it appears they have some things for 18 h2 but it's all foreign language to me. I don't understand exactly how these products work... I put in a ticket inquiry with their customer service.
 

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I got the Woolich setup and have a 2018. You can do a flash with it. The hardest part is finding the connectors in the tail section.
 

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I contacted Brocks, no they dont do 2018, and I am also looking who can do it. Why to purchase a new ECU?
Reasons to purchase a new ECU and flash it instead of your original:
-Ability to put the factory one back in in case you ever go in for warranty work
-Ability to put the bike back to stock and sell the flashed ECU in the future
-Ability to determine if potential problems are due to ECU tuning or mechanically related
-It is an electrical component and is subject to failure do to natural causes
-There is also a very slim chance anytime you flash an ECU of damage to it
 

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Different ECU now by Bosch in 2017-18 models. I don't think it's compatible with earlier models.
2017 is a Mitsubishi ECU and the bike has a Bosch IMU (not a Bosch ECU)
(I expect the 2018 is the same)

Woolich says they have a flash for the 2018.
Just remember that the Woolich flash for the H2 (and current ZX10R) requires an internet connection to make changes which can be a PIA. Most of the other Woolich products don't require it.
 

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The wooly setup is an excellent option, easy to use, solid customer support. If you have a 2017-18, make sure that you request the type 17b harness. Never really noticed needing the internet to flash, I usually only flash where internet is readily available so it hasn’t been a problem. Anthony at Woolich NA is always a big help!
 

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Reasons to purchase a new ECU and flash it instead of your original:
-Ability to put the factory one back in in case you ever go in for warranty work
-Ability to put the bike back to stock and sell the flashed ECU in the future
-Ability to determine if potential problems are due to ECU tuning or mechanically related
-It is an electrical component and is subject to failure do to natural causes
-There is also a very slim chance anytime you flash an ECU of damage to it
Until a proven flash is available for 2017/2018, your in uncharted territory, I wouldn't alter the OEM - ECU. All the points made by Ticketmaster are relevant :)
 

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Nothing uncharted about it. It’s flashing an ecu. Same as with any modern vehicle. There are no witches stirring a magic brew. Simple tuning with the correct tools. Be scared if you want to, but there is nothing to fear.
 

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"Until a proven flash is available for 2017/2018, your in uncharted territory, I wouldn't alter the OEM - ECU"...well,I think MOST of the adjustments are proven...enabling and disabling things.Tuning is a bit more involved of course.But there are baselines for these motors to run at.They can be safely tweaked if one knows what they're doing.
 

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Actually is not uncharted territory, Niobium23 and I have done it, he has a 2017 and I have a 2018. So we know it works.

There is nothing wrong with being safe. But in this case it is nu-necessary. Returning the ECU to stock is easily done.
 

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Actually is not uncharted territory, Niobium23 and I have done it, he has a 2017 and I have a 2018. So we know it works.

There is nothing wrong with being safe. But in this case it is nu-necessary. Returning the ECU to stock is easily done.
Thank you Ted, you have been an inspiration. You have no problem tackling a problem and learning fast. You approached the flash with courage and knowledge and you shared everything that you learned. That is awesome in my book sir. It can be a little intimidating flashing these girls at first! I ran into a problem when flashing the other day, at first she would not read so that I could re-save my current bin as you wisely advise. I was frazzled and called ya for help, I thought you might have some hints. Then I calmed down a bit, re-approached the problem from square one. Re-pinned my old 13b harness to convert it to the 17b configuration, and all was gravy at that point. I didn’t want to bug ya after I sorted it out. All of the model year 17 and up use the 17b configuration harness, which is simply moving the green wire one slot to the left (green diagnostic wire from P1 to P2). Thanks again for the advice and attitude of sharing knowledge sir!
 

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Thank you Ted, you have been an inspiration. You have no problem tackling a problem and learning fast. You approached the flash with courage and knowledge and you shared everything that you learned. That is awesome in my book sir. It can be a little intimidating flashing these girls at first! I ran into a problem when flashing, at first she would not read so that I could save my stock bin as you wisely advise. I was frazzled and called ya for help, I thought you might have some hints. Then I calmed down a bit, re-approached the problem from square one. Re-pinned my 13b harness to convert it to the 17b configuration, and all was gravy at that point. I didn’t want to bug ya after I sorted it out. All of the model year 17 and up use the 17b configuration harness, which is simply moving the green wire one slot to the left (green diagnostic wire from P1 to P2). Thanks again for the advice and attitude of sharing knowledge sir!
Yee are brave men, please post your before & after dyno results of your ECU flash!
 

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Thank you Ted, you have been an inspiration. You have no problem tackling a problem and learning fast. You approached the flash with courage and knowledge and you shared everything that you learned. That is awesome in my book sir. It can be a little intimidating flashing these girls at first! I ran into a problem when flashing the other day, at first she would not read so that I could re-save my current bin as you wisely advise. I was frazzled and called ya for help, I thought you might have some hints. Then I calmed down a bit, re-approached the problem from square one. Re-pinned my old 13b harness to convert it to the 17b configuration, and all was gravy at that point. I didn’t want to bug ya after I sorted it out. All of the model year 17 and up use the 17b configuration harness, which is simply moving the green wire one slot to the left (green diagnostic wire from P1 to P2). Thanks again for the advice and attitude of sharing knowledge sir!

Thank you. I tried to call you back.
 
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