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Here's a diagram Kawasaki has made public of the new slipper clutch installed in the '16 H2.

 

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Sorry, the 15 didn't have a slipper clutch?
 

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That slipper clutch looks suspiciously like the one use in other models...

https://neoriders.wordpress.com/2015/07/03/2016-kawasaki-z1000sx-will-get-assist-and-slipper-clutch/

"the same clutch already appeared on the new-for-2015 Ninja 300, Z300, and also Versys 1000, which shares the Z1000SX’s engine and transmission"

I suspect it should be a direct replacement on the '15s...

Frio
It should be a direct fit unless green squad decided to change the entire blue print of the h2 drive line for the 16 of course maybe for a rarity issue but I doubt it
 

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From last years press release...

Transmission
The H2 clutch is a back torque limiting type such as found on many Kawasaki models, wherein the clutch center is made of two pieces joined by ramps that cause the halves to separate slightly when fed back torque, such as when downshifting. The arrangement allows the clutch to absorb some of the engine's energy so that it is not fed into the rear shock and thus the rear wheel is less prone to hop. The clutch is not the assist/slip design currently the rage in sport bike technology. Like Kawasaki sport bikes made previously, the clutch's back torque limiting property is tunable by adjusting the assembled height of the clutch assembly, and the road and track bike clutches differ in the number of plates.




I liked the clutch on the '11 ZX10R. It was nice and light. I was pretty disappointed in how much heavier this clutch is...
 

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From last years press release...

Transmission
The H2 clutch is a back torque limiting type such as found on many Kawasaki models, wherein the clutch center is made of two pieces joined by ramps that cause the halves to separate slightly when fed back torque, such as when downshifting. The arrangement allows the clutch to absorb some of the engine's energy so that it is not fed into the rear shock and thus the rear wheel is less prone to hop. The clutch is not the assist/slip design currently the rage in sport bike technology. Like Kawasaki sport bikes made previously, the clutch's back torque limiting property is tunable by adjusting the assembled height of the clutch assembly, and the road and track bike clutches differ in the number of plates..
Guess it is now? They seem to have been saying the assist is more soft core?

I'd like to understand the clutch differences but more than 5000 miles in 4 months and I completely forgot about the stiffer clutch like 4000 miles ago. And it's smooth as silk. Like most sport bikes my cous. 15 S1000RR cable is not hydrolic like the H2, the lever is softer, easier to pull but is kinda notchy, doesn't have the same smooth, precise action like the H2s. I'd get confirmation the 16s is as least as robust as the 15s especially for stage 2 guys, I mean I get they were just responding to probably the 2 most squeaky wheel customer complaints w/ the softer clutch & more progressive ECU but if they could have made the clutch perform as well while being easier they probably would have on the 15.
 

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^I was thinking the same thing. How many people actually complained to them? It's a supercharged bike lol. It needs a good clutch to handle the power. That's one problem I found with Kawasaki. The clutch in the H2/H2R isn't that strong, and it is the same with my zx10r.
 

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Hmm...my thoughts are...the h2 has the best clutch setup as is needed for it.The H2R has a the clutch it needs.I'm with Strad's comment here about the lever feel...I got used to it within the first 100 miles or so.It doesn't feel 'not okay' now.It feels..'right'...to me.I only pull it in anyway at stops or from N going into 1st.The rest of my gear changes I only pull it in approx 1/2" or so....it performs this way very nicely.I usually use the QS from 3rd into 4th and up.It's possible also that readjusting the lever will give a somewhat different feel...it seemed to with mine anyway.Brought it in closer to the grip...but with that I found that dialing it all the way in closest somehow wasn't allowing it to engage/disengage properly.I thought that was a bit odd...but I just backed it out a bit...been fine.
 

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Ok, I guess I should clarify - it's not a 'true' slipper, since it's not adjustable. (details!)

That said, it still prevents wheel hop on downshifts and ratchets from a dead stop launch - so it's a da*n slipper to me... and to anyone else who drag races. This means it must be defeated to to allow for consistent/quick performance at the strip or anywhere else it gets launched from a dead stop.

Case in point: we only had four passes at our local Thursday night Test and Tune and still managed to get into the 8's.

Brock
 

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Part of the feedback Kawasaki was getting from H2 owners was about the heavy action of the H2 clutch. The new Assist and Slipper Clutch on the 2016 bike should resolve this.
 

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The H2 clutch is a bear, lever-pull-wise. I figured they could have used a different ratio master cylinder. Was a little surprised.
 

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IDK...I came from my zx14..that lever feel...to my H2.I'm not feeling this difficulty some are here.I only pull it in at stops(where I usually drop her into N)...shifting into 1st...and after that...I barely pull it in when shifting further up through the gears...and I rarely use it after 3rd gear...except to downshift.I doesn't(to me) feel overly firm or whatever.Perhaps adjusting the lever in closer would help.That's what I did.I think(at least in my case)I was believing the clutch lever needed to be pulled at least halfway to get a good shift.This I found is NOT necessary.I am able to pull my lever in(while upshifting)with my one finger(index).Only about a half inch in or so.It is a bit stiffer than my 14's.But not terribly.Not something I would feel I needed to 'do something about'....

It would be okay for it to have the same feel as my 14's...but it's okay as is also.With this transmission and design...I found if the shift(toe up)/lever action isn't timed just right,it can shift a bit harder.It's just finding that sweet spot...which I've done.Pulling the lever in past a half inch or so is really not necessary.

In traffic or something...I want to be able to feather it a bit..but taking the time to find that sweet spot is well worth it.I just put it in 1st,then pulled the lever in to find out where it actually started grabbing.I know...basic stuff...but it showed me how much(or little)I had to pull the lever.3/4's of the lever pull is totally a waste of energy.Not necessary.Plus it's time consuming when you're trying to move up through the gears at anything above 5mph.
The speed of the QS shows me the actual amount of time I only need to shift up using the clutch.If I match that speed with the lever action...it'll shift very nicely and I won't be pulling the lever in near as far.Pulling it in that small amount tooling through traffic and feathering it is very easy.It doesn't feel 'hard' or overfirm.More than my 14...yes...but acceptable for sure...IMO.
 

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Hmm...my thoughts are...the h2 has the best clutch setup as is needed for it.The H2R has a the clutch it needs.I'm with Strad's comment here about the lever feel...I got used to it within the first 100 miles or so.It doesn't feel 'not okay' now.It feels..'right'...to me.I only pull it in anyway at stops or from N going into 1st.The rest of my gear changes I only pull it in approx 1/2" or so....it performs this way very nicely.I usually use the QS from 3rd into 4th and up.It's possible also that readjusting the lever will give a somewhat different feel...it seemed to with mine anyway.Brought it in closer to the grip...but with that I found that dialing it all the way in closest somehow wasn't allowing it to engage/disengage properly.I thought that was a bit odd...but I just backed it out a bit...been fine.

After reading the info on the 2016, it looks like it's just an assist to keep the clutch lever light. So they didn't change the springs or anything else internal. The did change the hub from steel to aluminum for a weight savings of 1kg.

To me that means the clutch should have the same holding power as before.
 

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After reading the info on the 2016, it looks like it's just an assist to keep the clutch lever light. So they didn't change the springs or anything else internal. The did change the hub from steel to aluminum for a weight savings of 1kg.

To me that means the clutch should have the same holding power as before.
Hub or basket material change? Interested to read the parts fiche on the new model...most of the time, when pressed, the basket explodes (in general, for other bikes...they all use cast AL for basket and hub).
 
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