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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Can someone give me some advise on how to get that darn last mph out of the H2?
The bike is derestricted, has 230rwhp and 19/42 sprockets.
I've had her up to 199mph (319kmh) on the German Autobahn (very early in the morning with almost no traffic).
But that last mile is a struggle. I guess under good circumstances it must be possible, but when can I try best again?
I was thinking about a cold morning because of cooling and more hp's. Or is air resistance less on a warm morning and is it better to try then?
And my leathers are kinda sloppy, so a suit with a tighter fit will surely help...
Any difference in octane levels? I can choose between 95, 98 and 100. I believe they're measured differently in Europe?
Maybe tire pressure a bit higher (how much?) for less resistance?
I want to join the 200mph club :D
 

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Head down, jockey crouch with your backside off the seat , elbows in, knees in toes in ,
Practice in the garage untill you can go straight to that position after the last gear change
it can get difficult to see with your head in that position, i push my helmet up before i start to get a better view

When you get it right you can feel the sweet spot by the way the wind passes over your back
And you can see it in the rpm or mph , raise too high or too low and the rpm drops, , there is a couple of mph in it
Cool morning dense air will make more hp and give more drag , its a tradeoff , you may go faster then or in the heat of mid afternoon,
 

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Your H2 should be capable of 200 DeRox. It has the same gearing as mine and similar power. My bike has a best of 205.7mph and dozens of 200+ runs over the standing start mile. Your autobahn gives you a longer run, it should be achievable. By the way are you going by speedo or GPS? Speedo is optimistic.

Tuck like in this photo of me (last month at 200mph through the timing beam) and don't move about. Any time you move you create turbulence which is drag.
 

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Just to add and support what BobC stated, The difference between 220mph and 199mph all comes down to aerodynamics.

I remember an old SportRider article that showed they picked up 5mph just by removing the mirrors.

Let's think about this for a minute and consider the following factors:

1 - Where you riding into a headwind?
2 - Sometimes a seemingly straight road can have a slight incline. Were you riding up an incline?
3 - if your helmet is not completely protected behind the windscreen, how much mph are you losing?
4 - Is your riding gear high quality and snug fitting or is it loose fitting and creating drag.

No amount of horsepower can overcome bad aerodynamics. Think about landspeed vehicles. They're shaped like missiles and don't really make that much horsepower. There are cars that make more horsepower than land speed vehicles.

If you hit 199mph not knowing the importance of good aerodynamics, then I'd bet your bike is probably good for 210mph in the right hands.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thx guys.
I do know the importance of good aerodynamics. I was just wondering how to improve them.
I joked to my friends about installing a Hayabusa fairing ;)
I use a gps to measure the speed. The speedo stops at 299kmh...
First a tighter fitting leather suit I guess. Then some attention to my position on the bike...

Heres a little vid of my attempt on the Autobahn last Sunday with a vmax of 307kmh (192mph): https://youtu.be/M_xHT_oAGSA
Later that day I reached 319kmh (199mph), of course without the camera running... :crying:
 

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Thx guys.
I do know the importance of good aerodynamics. I was just wondering how to improve them.
I joked to my friends about installing a Hayabusa fairing ;)
I use a gps to measure the speed. The speedo stops at 299kmh...
First a tighter fitting leather suit I guess. Then some attention to my position on the bike...

Heres a little vid of my attempt on the Autobahn last Sunday with a vmax of 307kmh (192mph): https://youtu.be/M_xHT_oAGSA
Later that day I reached 319kmh (199mph), of course without the camera running... :crying:
Watched the vid....

I can tell you from experience that it will be next to impossible for you to get into the right position with the camera mounted on the tank. I struggle at the track whenever I mount my GoPro there.

The ideal riding position you will feel your chin touching the tank. If it's not touching, you can be more aero by touching it down.

Otherwise, great effort!
 

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You should use the stock windscreen, it is lower than the ZG one..... and tuck your mirrors in or even better remove them.

Try stock gearing, rev limiter in 6th gear is 200.8 mph on the GPS.

With taller gearing you need to stay WOT for longer.
 

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nice and was only on that road just over a week ago in my GT86 car. Did 300 miles of Autobahn and wished I was on the bike. Only managed 138MPH n the GPS but not bad from a 2ltr Boxer motor.
 

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Watched the vid....I can tell you from experience that it will be next to impossible for you to get into the right position with the camera mounted on the tank.
I just took a look at the video and this was my first thought as well, you can't get in a proper tuck with anything mounted on the gas tank. This works better for the H2; RAM steering stem post mount. If you use the smaller Session camera then you still have pretty good view of the tach info, it didn't bother me on the track.








here is a video of this mount on one of my track sessions. I kept the cam down low because I was adding in the rear cam, but you can adjust the post to stand up taller or use a longer RAM post. If you jump to about 3:45 in the footage is pretty good.



in any case this mount will allow you to get into a full tuck.
Also if you are looking for 1 more mph you might think about taking your mirrors off..
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thx for the tips. I'm sure I will break the 200mph barrier soon :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Looks tiresome. ;)
A real sport that high speed riding :)
 

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Hope this resizes enough to see my body position , if not i will try and crop it to get more of the rider in the pic Clear view of my jockey crouch at speed
Oz, you mentioned before to get your ass up off the seat and I see that in your pic as well. What is the reason for this?
I've always thought to cling to the frame of the bike as much as possible, to become as small as possible.
but I'm not an LSR guy so I'm curious to learn how that technique helps.
 

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Oz, you mentioned before to get your ass up off the seat and I see that in your pic as well. What is the reason for this?
I've always thought to cling to the frame of the bike as much as possible, to become as small as possible.
but I'm not an LSR guy so I'm curious to learn how that technique helps.
When you eat lots of beans, getting your ass off the seat gives you more thrust, for more top speed :)
 

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Aerodynamic drag from the rear of the bike is similar to the drag at the front , total front surface area (commonly called wetted as if you ride through a fine mist waterfall fast the bits that would get wet ) gets you the front drag, but the hole you leave in the air is rear drag , the big aerodynamic tails used in LSR can get you 30+mph by reducing rear drag

When you sit on the seat your back is at an angle that the airflow cannot stay attached to , so the rear drag starts behind the helmet ,
when you level the back you reduce the rear drag area as the airflow stays attached longer ,
The guy who took the pic is a long time LSR photographer called Pork Pie , he has such clarity in the photo when seen at full size and resolution you can see the air eddys around the rider
bit like heat haze distortion but in smaller concentrated areas , he came to my pits later that day to show i was lifting excessively and creating eddys between me and the seat which were spilling down the side , blew me away at the time it was so clear to see .

Idealy you would lower the front and tank to match the seat and get a big advantage in reduced frontal drag
 

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^ WOW that's quite an exclamation, good stuff!
cheers.
 
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