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Just after some advice on drag runs. I'm basically a track/street rider so this whole quarter mile thing is a very interesting concept with the H2. I'm scheduled to get some time at a drag strip in a few weeks for the first time ever and have a few questions that maybe answered by those who have done runs already.
The first question is does anyone use the launch control on runs and how does it work. (I still haven't tried it...my survival instincts tell me holding a it full throttle and dumping the clutch is suicide) Do you dump the clutch as Ive been told or just feather it? How have your experiences with it been?
The other question is I'm presuming runs are being done with TC1 on or no TC at all?
Any other advice would be greatly appreciated too
 

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There are 3 levels of launch control and many levels of traction control. Start with them all at 3 and baby step into it. If it's your first time DEFINITELY LEAVE THE TC ON.

Activate the KLCM, hold the throttle open (if not 100%, past 6500 RPM at least), then feather the clutch using it to control your speed. The launch control quits at 97 mph….so after you hit second gear you're relying on your throttle hand and traction control (you're done with the clutch at that point obviously). There's a couple of good vids on YouTube - if you watch those and memorize the sounds that are made when it's done correctly it'll help you a lot.

In all 3's it won't even be possible to get the front wheel up for more than a blip. That's as safe as it'll ever get.
 

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Find a quiet, straight bit of road - and practice starting from a standstill and running through first and second gear ! Try the different settings but don't just flip randomly from one to another, think about each try and try to work out what went right or wrong. For example, I found that, on setting 3, the launch control felt incredibly underpowered and it was very slow to get off the line.

Use a go pro and record each run to review later. Make sure it's clear from the video what settings you are using each time.

Practice makes perfect and will help you better understand the bikes electronic systems and also give you confidence in what to expect.
 

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As far as I know the UK quickest H2 is still up for grabs. My plan was to go through on the limiter in 3rd to get actual mph against speedo . Problem was I still had a long way to go so had to cog up. There's nothing to be gained above 13 k revs so heres your shift point. There is an extra kick at the top end of the rev range !
 

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There are 3 levels of launch control and many levels of traction control. Start with them all at 3 and baby step into it. If it's your first time DEFINITELY LEAVE THE TC ON.

Activate the KLCM, hold the throttle open (if not 100%, past 6500 RPM at least), then feather the clutch using it to control your speed. The launch control quits at 97 mph….so after you hit second gear you're relying on your throttle hand and traction control (you're done with the clutch at that point obviously). There's a couple of good vids on YouTube - if you watch those and memorize the sounds that are made when it's done correctly it'll help you a lot.

Lots of good tips here.


The biggest thing for anyone going down the 1/4 is seat time. If you are able to go on a day that isn't too busy, that would be your best bet.

First tip for starts before you even get to the track. Do a oil change before going, adjust the chain, clean and lube it. If you are looking to squeeze every bit out, remove the mirrors too lol. Drop your rear tire psi down to about 30psi.


Once you get to the track, take a second to see how everyone lines up, so you understand how to "pre-stage" and "stage". There will be a box with two mouse holes that use a laser/light. The first beam you ride into is the pre-stage. The top two lights will light up. You will then move forward some more into the next beam which will light up the bottom two bulbs.....at this point you should have all four bulbs lit up. It should be a sportsman tree which means it does a count down of yellow lights.......leave on the last yellow ;) don't wait to see green.

When you are ready to make a pass, avoid the burnout box all together. Do not ride through the water and ride around it. You should not need a burnout depending on the temperature. If it is cool outside.....like 10-15 degrees C then you should do a small burnout. Ride around the burnout box, back up the rear tire into the water then move forward out of the water. Don't do the burnout in the water, and don't spin the tire in it either or else water gets splashed up in the under tail and will drip on the tire afterwards. After you move forward a bit start the burnout. 5-7 seconds should be more than enough.....and obviously make sure the TC is off at this point lol!

After you have finished the burnout, turn you TC back on. When you are moving forward to the "pre stage" make sure you are lined up in the "GROOVE" Take a look and see where all the cars and bikes are leaving from on the track and try to line up your tires in that "GROOVE" It should appear matte in colour where they are leaving rubber. The shiny stuff is slick.

As for the launch that takes seat time. You need to be quick on the clutch to get that initial movement with the bike, but you need to release it right into the slip point. Avoid riding the crap out of it or you will burn it up quick.

My last tip is don't hot lap the crap out of it. Depending on how much you ride the clutch it will need a cool down time. I think you should be ok with two back to back passes, but after that give it a little rest.

Hope this helps
Adam
 

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Boosted has done this before. :)

I am not 100% sure (haven't tried it) but I don't think you actually have to turn the traction control off to do a burnout and then turn it back on again. I think ABS and traction control is de-activated below some very low speed (3 - 5 km/h) and it uses the front wheel speed to establish this. So a stationary burnout should work. It may flash the ABS warning lamp at you. Attempting a rolling burnout with traction control on could get interesting, it may shut it down the moment it sees non-zero front wheel speed.

The short roll between the burnout area and the start line should be enough for the ABS/TC system to reset itself. Normally the ABS warning lamp goes off the moment it sees non-zero speed of both wheels.

Try it to see what will happen. If it doesn't let you do it then do what Boosted suggested.
 

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All those answers are what I would suggest as well. I'd also add to make the rear suspension very soft. Will help the power wheelies a lot.
 

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Boosted has done this before. :)

I am not 100% sure (haven't tried it) but I don't think you actually have to turn the traction control off to do a burnout and then turn it back on again. I think ABS and traction control is de-activated below some very low speed (3 - 5 km/h) and it uses the front wheel speed to establish this. So a stationary burnout should work. It may flash the ABS warning lamp at you. Attempting a rolling burnout with traction control on could get interesting, it may shut it down the moment it sees non-zero front wheel speed.

The short roll between the burnout area and the start line should be enough for the ABS/TC system to reset itself. Normally the ABS warning lamp goes off the moment it sees non-zero speed of both wheels.

Try it to see what will happen. If it doesn't let you do it then do what Boosted suggested.

The TC will still let you do a burnout, I ended up leaving it on one time lol.
 

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FWIW, I noticed that on standing miles with TC on the rear tyre showed some radial marks where it had been working to reduce wheel spin. Almost like cuts across the tread every few inches.

Even though this was a mile event I was trying to get off the line as fast as possible. People on the start line asked if the clutch was slipping, what they could hear was the TC doing its thing.

I turned TC off for the next runs, had to do it the old way with good control - but it was faster and the tyre showed normal wear with that lovely grainy look it gets when working hard.
 
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