TurboSmart BOV - Page 3 - Kawasaki Ninja H2 Forum
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post #21 of 94 Old 10-07-2017, 06:19 PM
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Anyone Got the installation instructions for the BOV, It sounds awesome, power or no power.

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post #22 of 94 Old 10-07-2017, 06:25 PM
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Yes, I did not think it would reduce power to get rid of recirculated hot air that no longer had increased pressure, but I could think of no other theory he might have had and as yet we can only guess.
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post #23 of 94 Old 10-07-2017, 06:40 PM
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@Nola.....i dont think i need to explain. Seems you have all the answers
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post #24 of 94 Old 10-07-2017, 06:50 PM
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Well if it was received then there was a gain, if not, then no, simply an unsupported assertion.
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post #25 of 94 Old 10-07-2017, 08:21 PM
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A simple reason you may lose some power at part throttle is a mechanical valve with a specific set point will act mecahnically. A solenoid Kawi engineered for the job may work with a bit more IAP smarts. If the objective is maximum output instantaneously available then keeping maximum pressure in the plenum at all times is advantageous. Yes of course we don't know which system maintains more plenum pressure but i suggest that if the snatchiness is gone it is because there is less pressure in the box and thus less power on tap at any given moment. IMO you will only see it on a dyno if you look at the part throttle hit.

In the absence of detonation having cooler intake air temp is insignificant if you also have less IAP making less power. If you prefer less snatchiness in the cruising area this mod SOUNDS good but in a roll on you may lose a bit to a bike without it.

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post #26 of 94 Old 10-07-2017, 08:53 PM
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@Kawiguy454

Makes sense, I was having a conversation with Guhl about exactly this and the solenoid.

I do have to disagree with the statement that in the absence of detonation cooler air is insignificant. In forced induction cooler air is ALWAYS significant. The cooler it is the more dense it is and that's an important factor. Density being the amount of oxygen crammed into a given volume of air. The more you cool it the more oxygen molecules in the same space. If you do the math, for every 10 degrees of temp drop we can get the density increases 1.8 percent, as does power.

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post #27 of 94 Old 10-07-2017, 09:08 PM
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Two questions and aspects are, recirculation vs venting. Do you see any situation where recirculating hot air to the airbox, open to the ram air tube and before the supercharger, offers more power than venting the hot air?

The other would be whether pressure is blown off sooner.

When talking about available power, don't we generally mean at full throttle, or if restricted, at as much as the butterflies open?

In this situation, how would the differing blowoff valve reduce power? Closed either way.

Is it possible that if with throttles closed or nearly closed OEM isn't blowing off pressure at some point that aftermarket is blowing off pressure, then OEM might give more sudden part-throttle response, to an extent a naturally aspirated superbike wouldn't, while aftermarket would have only atmospheric at the throttle bodies and have more typical throttle response? Makes sense, but a question maybe as to whether that's helpful, and also any such difference in throttle response seems a different question than reducing hp as claimed.

Last edited by trenace; 10-07-2017 at 11:38 PM.
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post #28 of 94 Old 10-07-2017, 11:56 PM Thread Starter
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Hey Trenance, I didnt have any problem with any kind of studder beforehand, she feels fantastic, silky smooth, very happy with the setup.
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post #29 of 94 Old 10-08-2017, 06:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbo329 View Post
You're right. With the Solenoid connected to the Plenum, Throttle body, and BOV, you are dependent upon it to bleed off the boost. With the Turbosmart hooked up and routed directly to the throttle body, it bleeds every time the throttle closes regardless of what the solenoid does. If the solenoid is connected and it doesn't bleed off boost in time, the next time you crack or open the throttle you have that backed up boost which causes the abruptness.

One of the first things I noticed was how much softer it was when getting back on the throttle. It felt like I lost power actually but none of the dyno tests that we've done indicate a loss in HP related to the Turbosmart.
100%

"With the Turbosmart hooked up and routed directly to the throttle body" <-- easily the best way to have this hooked-up. Takes the Kawasaki smoke and mirrors out of the equation of "when does it blow off?".

It takes a bit of getting used to though, sounds almost like plastics scraping on the road when you first hear it in your helmet but you get used to it pretty quickly.

The only thing I've not seen mentioned is if you are using this on a stock plenum (without an intercooler) and making some BIG boost temperatures like we see here from time to time just be aware of the electrical items in the BOV output path. (ambient air pressure sensor, coil-pack 4 and wiring loom to both). While I doubt short blasts would a problem sustained temperature might be.
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post #30 of 94 Old 10-08-2017, 08:41 AM
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Well I have one on the way and I'm looking forward to seeing if it helps with the snatchy on off throttle transition. That's one thing I dislike about my girl. Not sure if I'll like the noise but I'll let you know. Hope to have the bike back together next weekend. I'm running the top gear only with the stock intake and a carbon fiber intake tube with Ghuls flash and a custom tune.....

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