Mea Culpa - Top End Damage! - Page 2 - Kawasaki Ninja H2 Forum
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post #11 of 25 Old 01-30-2020, 09:34 PM
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Sorry to hear that Don, bad way to end a fun couple of days at the Island.
Curious, what sort of lap times/top speeds were you seeing?

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Originally Posted by H2015 View Post
set at 11 ft/lbs with non-permanent loctite as instructed.
I would guess that if the bolt backed-out then replacing with new bolts wouldn't have made much difference, torque or loctite has to be the problem and if you assume that the torque settings in the manual is correct then I would suggest using a permanent Loctite instead.

Loctite 263 is "permanent" but can still be undone, its oil tolerant and works at high operating temperatures.

It will still hold more 60% strength at your highest oil temperatures and in the unlikely event that you ever need to undo those bolts you can put a pencil flame on the bolt before undoing it. Apply the loctite, torque them up and leave for 24 hours before doing anything with them.

TDS
https://tdsna.henkel.com/americas/na/adhesives/hnauttds.nsf/web/382795AAF2B4355B8525760E004BEA0A/$File/263-EN.pdf
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post #12 of 25 Old 01-31-2020, 03:10 AM Thread Starter
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Hello mate!

Didn't get lap times, though I'm not fast anyway. Difference with the H2 this time though is I felt much better on it. It responded so nicely, I could concentrate on the track more. Won't stop me from going back to P.I., still think it's a better track than Tailem Bend for the H2.

As I said, it is what it is, just getting withdrawals though! And the permanent loctite sounds a better deal too!

Cheers.
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post #13 of 25 Old 01-31-2020, 06:25 PM
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Yep locktight green here , the hi strength bearing retainer type , and i have never used a torque wrench on a cam bolt, there all set to AFT (awfully Fuggen Tight)
after setting the cam timing i remove 1 bolt at a time , rinse the whole area in locktight primer , put enough locktight in the thread that some spills out and gets behind the gear and around the bolt in the gear slot or hole, then again a light dab on the bolt and install, tightening with a long flat sided ring spanner (wrench to you guys) and the limiting factor on tension is the motor , it starts to rotate as you get near tight enough
some of my Suzukis have had this done multiple times without bolt stretch or fatigue being noticable
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post #14 of 25 Old 01-31-2020, 11:51 PM Thread Starter
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All good info here, looks like the permanent loctite is the way to go regardless of what manuals say!

Interesting method you use OzBooster for tightening & using the motor to gauge tension, I guess if it's able to turn it over then that's enough tension on the bolt right there!
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post #15 of 25 Old 02-23-2020, 12:38 AM Thread Starter
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Small update...

Went and saw bike couple of days ago, spoke to service bloke. Head to come back this Tues/Wed then bike put together again.

So far, 6 valves bent, head needing mild work, other odds and sods. Interestingly they found one of the oil jets (2 per cylinder bottom end) was slightly bent and had caused a small split in the piping. Even they are confused as to how it was done as they don't think it was the cam wheel bolt knocking around there!

With any luck I will have the bike back by next week. I'm keeping all the buggered bits. I'll post up what has been replaced, which included another H2R inlet cam! That's were some of the pricing is!

Don.
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post #16 of 25 Old 02-23-2020, 05:24 AM
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Even after getting the workshop to put it together what's your plan to check everything is good, how many hours before a thorough check of bolts etc?
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post #17 of 25 Old 02-24-2020, 02:15 AM Thread Starter
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I'll be talking to the mechanic when I collect the bike. Already plan on working out a return time to check everything. Last thing I want is a return to this senario!
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post #18 of 25 Old 03-30-2020, 07:12 PM Thread Starter
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Get bike back today, having it delivered to my door due to the COVID-19 crap, easier than me getting a train, then bus to the bike shop!

Will post info on what was replaced/repaired once I have it all.

Senior mechanic only one to work on it, got it going last Wednesday, then spent next 2 days test riding, checking, riding, checking - they said due to it being an H2 they wanted to make extra sure things are correct.

Total damage to pocket AUS $7,798!!

Now I get to park it in the garage for a few months, Yay!
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post #19 of 25 Old 04-01-2020, 07:04 AM Thread Starter
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Got bike back yesterday after work. Shop owner dropped it off himself in van. Had a chat with him, he owns a 2015 H2R and does competition riding on other bikes. Given a list of parts replaced, with main parts being refurbished head, new valves X 6, 1 new piston & ring set, various other parts.

Due to current COVID-19 restrictions I have yet to speak to senior mechanic regarding exact work done to head and engine, but will in time get this and put on here. Just glad to get it back home! Will spend time detailing it, and when weather permits use it to get to work, and take the long way home through local hills.
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post #20 of 25 Old Yesterday, 03:19 AM Thread Starter
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Well, washed and cleaned bike today. When I tried to start it, it did so for a while, then when turned off and on again the gauges lit up like a christmas tree, obviously a fault reading. Bike would only rev for half a second and die. After long time reading online manual, checking for codes (23 showed up - cam position sensor), I checked CPS wiring - all hooked up okay. Did resistance test - okay. Checked online with this site for similar problem, came across old thread with same problem.

Seems when the battery is low it throws up the code 23! Once charged fully bike should start again. So, bike on long charge mode. It had been test run couple of times last week by shop after rebuild, but I'm thinking they would have given it a quick charge (maybe) then ran it, and put it away for delivery. It had been 3 months since it buggered up so should expect battery to be low - I did check it today and showed 12.4 V, but not under load and still may be not enough. Will know tomorrow.
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