Actually the KEBC is controlled by the throttle valves. I can adjust the KEBC throttle positions with my Wollich software. It is not just shutting off the throttle, it effects the entire range of RPMs and throttle positions. And remember octane is meant to slow and even out the burn. Less octane usually yields more power, but can introduce pre ignition, knock sensors retard the timing (indirectly) and then cause less power at higher RPMs. But at low revs, lower octane gives you more power. Also I have disconnected my exhaust valve. It made it more consistent accelerating. Sometimes if felt lethargic in it's response to throttle opening.
OK, I've been out testing today.
I tried to count the deceleration between modes and the count was the same, it's confusing as the feeling is so different, more so the more actively I drive.
What is huge though is the difference between the throttle response in Light mode which is awful, twitchy and abrupt (off/on/off/on and a very faint in between that can be achieved though not consistently) as opposed to the Off mode which is much less abrupt and much more handleable (though not perfect), anybody disagreeing with this?
I drive the bike so much faster and with more confidence in the Off mode that I have to brake harder before the next corner as my speed is much greater.
Now this is not what I see you guys saying on here for the most which I find remarkable.
I didn't turn the bike off in between the changes, I just stopped and put it in neutral before I changed the mode. What perplexed me was that I perceived the change between modes more gradual after the change than a direct change most of the times and it appeared I had to drive for a bit before the settings change had reached full maturity.
First time I did the change of modes (a couple days ago) it upset the quick shifter for the first few gear changes or so before the bike learnt the change and it gradually wore off (yeah you read it right that's what I said "learnt"), so either I've gone absolutely bonkers or I'm saying I've got the feeling that rather than just a set of fixed parameters to follow with each settings change the bike is equipped to sense and adjust to changing conditions on the fly.
Everything mentioned above is just my speculations and perceived feeling of my bike -a 2017 H2 with IMU that has only a Yoshi slip on and dyno fuel remap with unrestricted throttle created on my behalf by the Kawasaki retailer and a super-bike tuning professional- and is not in any way backed up by facts and should be regarded as such.
The bike achieved 245 wheel bhp while the original map and yoshi can created 210 wheel bhp so likely a high reading dyno. I don't think they used an external map since the Kawasaki dealership owner said they have the kit to make any changes they want, I didn't distrust him since his dealership rebuilt and registered an H2R for the street and he claimed they had intricate knowledge of these bikes.