Tools for sprocket change - Kawasaki Ninja H2 Forum
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post #1 of 25 Old 12-03-2018, 11:27 PM Thread Starter
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Tools for sprocket change

Hey everyone finally picked up a set of sprockets and will be working on swapping them out with the original sprockets soon.

I was just wondering if anyone that has done the process could share what tools they needed to complete the job.

Things I'm concerned about not having are

Correct size socket for front engine sprocket nut

Correct size socket for rear axel nut

Correct size Allen key for rear axel

If anyone could chime in with the correct sizes of those it would be greatly appreciated.

Side note what tools do you use for changing out your chain. I know motion pro has a rivet/break tool on Amazon seems decent for the price.....

Thanks for any input or information really appreciate it trying to be able to have everything when I tackle the job and not get stuck in the middle of it.
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post #2 of 25 Old 12-04-2018, 02:31 AM
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Front sprocket nut...20 mm.

Chain...grind the heads off of one link.Slide link out.The motion pro tool you will need to install new link.(crimping)."Correct size socket for rear axel nut"..you do not remove axle nut.Leave that alone."Correct size Allen key for rear axel"..you use the supplied allen wrench for the two rear axle clamp bolts.

Are you using a rear stand,or a center stand?
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post #3 of 25 Old 12-04-2018, 04:25 AM
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For the front sprocket: Even if you aren't using an impact wrench use a proper impact wrench socket with six flats, not a regular one from your tool kit. The torque is quite high, the contact area on a hexagonal socket is greater and it's less likely to slip or damage the nut.

For the rear sprocket: I found it easier to put the bike on the paddock stand and remove the rear wheel to loosen the sprocket nuts. Much easier than trying to do it through the wheel. Then put the wheel back on, drop the bike off the stand and remove the sprocket. It might take you five minutes longer but it's worth it.
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Last edited by BobC; 12-04-2018 at 11:24 AM.
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post #4 of 25 Old 12-04-2018, 05:16 AM
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Originally Posted by H2KROD View Post
Hey everyone finally picked up a set of sprockets and will be working on swapping them out with the original sprockets soon.

I was just wondering if anyone that has done the process could share what tools they needed to complete the job.

Things I'm concerned about not having are

Correct size socket for front engine sprocket nut

Correct size socket for rear axel nut

Correct size Allen key for rear axel

If anyone could chime in with the correct sizes of those it would be greatly appreciated.

Side note what tools do you use for changing out your chain. I know motion pro has a rivet/break tool on Amazon seems decent for the price.....

Thanks for any input or information really appreciate it trying to be able to have everything when I tackle the job and not get stuck in the middle of it.

Front sproket nut is 27mm, and don't forget about the bent lock washer. Use an impact as suggested. For rear sprocket you don't need to remove the axle nut, just loosen the (5) 17mm nuts on the back of the sprocket and you're fine. Once again as suggested, remove the wheel and then reinstall it will help a lot. For the chain, the Motion Pro PBR chain tool or equivalent is the way to go. To tension the chain you will need a 10mm allen to loose the clamp bolts on the hub and the supplied wrench to rotate the eccentric.
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post #5 of 25 Old 12-04-2018, 05:50 AM
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Don't forget the sprocket bolts from memory are single use only?
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post #6 of 25 Old 12-04-2018, 08:08 AM
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The rear axle nut is 46mm 12 socket, the Allen for the axle is 24mm.
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post #7 of 25 Old 12-04-2018, 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by h2madness! View Post
Chain...grind the heads off of one link.Slide link out.
LOL, that sounds like a lot of work. Why don't you just use a chain breaking tool?
And you need the same tool to install the new master link anyway.
I do this every time I change the front sprocket which is more often than I change underwear
I keep a box full of master links on had at all times.



Front sprocket I use an impact gun to easily remove the nut.
putting it back on I use a torque wrench, put the bike in gear and put weight on the rear break.

Rear sprcket; first I put the bike into a wheel chalk to hold it straight up.
Impact gun again, remove the sprocket hub, turn it over on a towel and use the impact gun to remove those 5 nuts as well.
Torque wrench to reapply.
Don't forget to properly tighten the chain tension you would need to prop the rear wheel up with the rear stand.

FYI if you change your gearing (especially the rear sprocket) you will be changing the ride height of the rear and the geometry of the bike. This is the 1 drawback of the single-sided swingarm.
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post #8 of 25 Old 12-04-2018, 07:59 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the support community appreciate all the responses and information so quick.

So what I gathered from everyone is the front sprocket nut is

20mm or 27mm use a six point because its tight

Need to replace the washer.....

Rear axle nut is 46mm 12 point and a 24mm allen key

but the rear sprocket can be done without taking the axle nut off just by pulling off the rear wheel to make it easy.

Remove the five 17mm nuts that need to be replaced and the sprocket comes off.... after removing the slack from chain.

I will be using a rear stand as I do not have a front wheel chock may need to invest in one of those will have to do some research on a good one.

Racer172 what chain tool was that in your picture? Thought you had to grind the rivet heads off even with the chain tool.......


Im going with the vortex 19t front and 41t rear for those wondering.
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post #9 of 25 Old 12-05-2018, 07:17 AM
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I highly recommend a heindle center stand.Allows both wheels to be off the ground.Using a small floorjack under the pipes.
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post #10 of 25 Old 12-05-2018, 01:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by H2KROD View Post
1-Need to replace the washer.
2-but the rear sprocket can be done without taking the axle nut off just by pulling off the rear wheel to make it easy.
3-I will be using a rear stand as I do not have a front wheel chock
4-Racer172 what chain tool was that in your picture? Thought you had to grind the rivet heads off even with the chain tool.
1-no it can be reused about 5 or 6 times, after that so much bending it should be replaced.
2-everything about what you said here is wrong. You have to take the rear nut off to remove the hub which holds the sprocket, and none of these parts have anything to do with the rear wheel which is on the other side of the bike. The wheel does not come off for this procedure.
3-if you are using a rear stand (like the PitBull) that goes through the center of the wheel to lift up the bike then you will not be able to get the hub & sprocket off, unless it enters from the right side, I don't know. I use a wheel chalk to keep the bike upright. Bob just uses the side sand which works fine but the bike is angled, I like it to be upright.
4-The Chain in that picture was just a random image I got from a search. The chain-breaking tool I use is RK Excel, here is a pic below.
This tool allows you to use that threaded rod to push the pin out the other side of the chain's link using a socket set, this is what I do. My mechanic told me yesterday that he also grinds the pins off because that's faster, so either way you want to get there.



here the link to order on Amazon:




2016 Ninja H2 ľAkropovic Exhaust .. Stage III gears .. Extreme Creations intercooler .. H2R Fuel Pump .. DynoJet PCV .. DNA race filter .. FlashTune .. DynoTuned .. BST wheels .. Yosh fender eliminator.. Brembo full-floating disc rotors .. Brembo RC19 master cylinder .. SBS Racing brake pads .. Lightech gas cap ... ABS delete + custom brake lines
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