Tools for sprocket change - Page 2 - Kawasaki Ninja H2 Forum
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post #11 of 25 Old 12-05-2018, 02:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by H2KROD View Post
Thought you had to grind the rivet heads off even with the chain tool.
a couple years ago when my mechanic bought me the chain-breaking tool he explained to me how to use it, I recorded the instructions on my cell phone so I could review it the first time I went to use the tool. Here is the recording, I uploaded it to YouTube. This recording was never meant to be view by anyone but me on my phone but I leave it up long enough for you to get an idea of how it works, then I will pull it down from my youtube channel.


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post #12 of 25 Old 12-05-2018, 06:22 PM
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Good video!
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post #13 of 25 Old 12-06-2018, 03:19 AM
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(To replace rear sprocket)
I repeat because I'm sure of what I say because I did it this way:

1- Lift the bike
2- Remove the wheel
3- Loose the 2 allen hub bolts and release tension on the chain
4- Loose all 5 sprocket nuts behind the sprocket itself
5- Replace the wheel momentarily
6- Drop the bike from the stand
7- Remove the sprocket toward the left side
8- Put the new sprocket in same way
9- Re-lift the bike and remove again the wheel
10- Tighten all 5 nuts behind the sprocket and engage the chain
11- Put tension on the chain and tighten allen bolts
12- Replace the wheel

If you lift the bike from the pegs, you won't even need to remove and replace the wheel twice
NO NEED to remove the axle bolts, no 46mm 12pt socket and 24mm allen needed
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post #14 of 25 Old 12-06-2018, 05:36 AM
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"If you lift the bike from the pegs"...never heard of that.How do you do that?


Only difference is I use a center pivot stand.That way no need to have to 'lower bike on wheel' part and remove stand.

With the chain breaker,for me it was always simpler and easier to grind the heads off the link.Then I take a large flattip screwdriver and wedge into the plate,popping that off,slide link out.So much easier than trying to tighten that pin in there to push on the link.I then connect the new chain end to the old chain,put trans in N.Pull old chain through front sprocket and remove once it gets to the rear,where I link the new chain ends together.Add plate,then crimp.Voila!Easy.

I'll tell ya...the center pivot stand really works great.Can check front play and steering action,along with bearing action.Or tire replacement especially if I'm doing front and back.Small floorjack under the exhaust headers,lift gently just enough for the front wheel to clear the ground.Really helps as well to line up the axle in there.You can drop or raise the floorjack just right to slide that axle in/out without drama.Taking any pressure off that fork /axle interface.

I used to remove the front fender as well when changing out tires.I stopped doing that when I got the center stand and jack.Just removed the calipers,and she slides right out.You guys probably already do it like that.I have a pitbull front stand with the pin.I used that for a while.Always removed the fender when I did use it.Center stand's so much easier.

Last edited by h2madness!; 12-06-2018 at 05:48 AM.
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post #15 of 25 Old 12-06-2018, 06:57 AM
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This I mean for "lift from the pegs"
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post #16 of 25 Old 12-06-2018, 08:57 AM
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That's a first for me...never seen those before.Looks kinda 'iffy'.How the heck do ya get the bike up on both sides to lift it?Don't think I'd want those...I just put her on the rear stand,install the pivot stand,then remove the rear stand.

Do you actually HAVE those stands?Looks like it cradles the footpegs.Right?If so,How's it gonna cradle a footpeg that folds up and back?I could see it working with solid rearsets.Kinda.Still would need to raise the rear up with em...don't see how that's possible one at a time.

Last edited by h2madness!; 12-06-2018 at 09:02 AM.
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post #17 of 25 Old 12-06-2018, 09:10 AM
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"A: The bike would need to be lifted up off the ground with front and rear race stands, then the Jack Stands are slid into place. Once the bike is on the jack stands the front and rear stands can be removed".Too much extra work for me lol.I don't really need to raise the rear with the swingarm stand.I can fit the center pivot stand with it on it's sidestand.Either way.
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post #18 of 25 Old 12-06-2018, 01:54 PM
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I don't get why you guys remove the rear wheel for a rear sprocket change.
One has nothing to do with the other.
but whatever works for ya..

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post #19 of 25 Old 12-06-2018, 06:11 PM
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To get to the sprocket nuts.And the axle bolts.Just easier for me anyway.But I do have a nicely angled socket wrench I use to do it either way.It can be done on the sidestand as well.Think I did it that way once.
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post #20 of 25 Old 12-07-2018, 11:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by h2madness! View Post
To get to the sprocket nuts.And the axle bolts.Just easier for me anyway..
sorry for not letting this go but at this point it's a curiosity thing for me, just trying to figure out if there's something I'm missing here.
so you're working from this side to remove the hub & sprocket from the other side of the swing arm?


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